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Quote from Mark Kovolsky (former Ford trans engineer in that era): “…Switching the shifter won't do anything. The only difference between a tow/haul shifter and an OD OFF shifter is the writing on the shifter. Mechanically and electrically they are exactly the same.” (He he, couldn’t resist).
I think I did mention OD OFF immediately in that post, but as I also worked with Ford a few years, and it was common to use the terms interchangeably then, I suppose I’m at fault. It IS the original OD OFF, not the software change later marketed as TOW/HAUL.
for trouble shooting, does it make a difference Mark? If so, I’m working out of the 93 manual, if there’s a better one, let me know.
Last edited by OxBow0; Jan 22, 2025 at 01:35 PM.
Reason: Spelling
lol, I missed the second question you asked, totally missed it. No codes showing after the drive. I’m going to warm it up today and unplug to see if R/2/4 is all I get, but I suspect that the solenoid pack is good. Pins WERE oily, but after a thorough clean and then dielectric grease, that shouldn’t be an issue. I also got good 12v reference on correct pin, and good 5v on tps ref.
i did not check 2 engaged compression, as i was doing down hill at around 40, but i can check that on next test drive.
Ok, ignition on, engine off. Codes 26 & 56. Both MAF codes? Nothing else.
engine running, no codes present. Going for a test drive.
OD on off button not flashing either.
Last edited by OxBow0; Jan 22, 2025 at 02:17 PM.
Reason: Add
only get 1st gear when direct shifting into it, not in 2 or drive/od.
(OD off) no longer gives downhill compression, it just coasts like OD on.
You shouldn't have 1st gear in manual 2 position at any time. 2 is not 1-2 shift. 2 should just be 2, so that's good.
For no first gear in D position, but you do have first in manual 1, then this has to be the solenoid fault.
When you press the OD cancel button, it should downshift into 3rd gear (at speeds and conditions, that allow it to shift in OD/4th, of course.) What happens when you press it, anything at all?
Originally Posted by OxBow0
I suspect that the solenoid pack is good. Pins WERE oily, but after a thorough clean and then dielectric grease, that shouldn’t be an issue.
That's not an indication of good. That's an internal seal leak and the only way to fix it, is by replacing the pack. It could be what shorted out the solenoid.
Originally Posted by OxBow0
Ok, ignition on, engine off. Codes 26 & 56. Both MAF codes?
Code 26 is Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range – Transmissions. Another indication the pack has failed.
Code 56 is Transmission Oil Temperature sensor too high – Transmissions. This means your trans is running too hot or the pack has failed.
- Update/ added info 1/18/2025
In depth diagnoses, if cleaning does not solve your solenoid related codes.
I'd say you have 90% evidence you need a new solenoid pack anyway. Well, let me put this way;
You need to replace it 100% simply due to the internal leak. This is in stone.
The odds of it fixing the related issues mentioned above, at least 90% (probably 100%).
oooooooo. I didn't put that internal leaking info in that thread did I? I'll update that. That's kinda rare, but it happens!
There we go. Added.
Since cleaning harness and ohm checking it, the OD off has no change to driving. Codes were those numbers, but I pulled meaning from the list on the site you linked. So you’re thinking a ball bearing stuck in solenoid, or a crack? Ok, it’s understandable. In this weather, this is my only rig to get to and from town, since 2/3/4 (or at least 2/4) work, am I safe to go town town for parts (40 mile RT), if not, do you have a supplier that you trust online?
again, thanks for the help, and sorry for my dry sense of humor…. Just add water
addition: after pulling trans plug to test R/2/4, when I went to reinstall it, I noticed it had ATF in it, which it did not after I cleaned it yesterday. This supports the failed seal theory, but adds weight to the last question I asked… know a great vender online? Also, anyone have the RWD trans filter part #, all I’ve found is the 4x4 number, and they are a different pan I believe.
Last edited by OxBow0; Jan 22, 2025 at 03:00 PM.
Reason: Addition
Yeah, you've just got to replace your solenoid pack before worrying about anything else, since you know it's got the failed seal. In fact, I just added that very info to that thread; that it's just going to re-fill with ATF again, just like what you see.
You should be able to find the E4OD filter by entering your truck as 2wd. They are for sure different.
Exceptions are; F-super duty (f450) E4OD trucks, though 2wd trucks, they have 4wd trans in them (these "2wd trucks" will show 4wd trans filter part #).
Whenever you use a 4wd 4R100 w/ drain plug, you need to ensure you use the 4wd filter to go with it, even if you have a 2wd truck.
The 4wd pans are deeper is all it is, so therefore the pickup tube in the filter is also longer/deeper. That's all it is, but it's vital to use the 4wd filter of course in the deeper pan. You don't want your pump to run dry and hurt the gears/pump case.
I have no idea who the seller was now, but when I needed a solenoid pack for my F250 years back (corrosion city!), I went with a reman from a random ebay seller. Been fine ever since.......At least I'm pretty sure I remember that's where I got it. Been a long time and no notes in records, just that I got it. Pretty sure though.
So while awaiting new pack, I pulled, and again cleaned all sockets, and even fuses and relays. Verified signals and resistances to trans pack, shake tests, etc, all good. Solid 14.3v input to trans pack when running. Now getting more codes. 91, 92,93,94, 54,56,26, 66… pretty much every signal from the pack is now showing a fail. Seems like the culprit. Will advise after parts arrive, which got bumped back to feb 4.
also verified temps good via remote gauge, which were added for towing
Last edited by OxBow0; Jan 23, 2025 at 01:29 PM.
Reason: Typo
so I did the solenoid swap, and a new filter for good measure. Cleared codes, and took a test drive.
WOW! First off, I have to hold the brakes at a stoplight at 650rpm… next, don’t touch the accelerator pedal or you’ll peal out! 1-2-3-4 all as they should be, loaded and no load. OD off works perfectly. Smooth drive and shifting, just like new. Did over 60 miles of highway, country roads and city today.
the old solenoid had that very rare cracked issue, it was half full of fresh trans fluid when I pulled it. Looks like a crack in between two pins, just filled up and then dripped out… no more.
thanks all for the help and encouragement.
Last edited by OxBow0; Feb 1, 2025 at 06:16 PM.
Reason: Add