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85 f150, 300....I'd like to know what all I can remove or block off from my air pump and egr. There is a check valve (one end screws into the carb spacer, the other goes into a hose that runs back to air pump) that rusted out on my truck. Is the air pump and egr stuff really needed? I was thinking about just taking the belt off the air pump and plugging the hole where the check valve used to be, but I don't know if all this stuff is needed or not. I have no emmisions testing where I live, I'd just like to fix this as easily as possible. The vac lines on my egr valve are also plugged, it's been like that since I bought it. Thanks
I removed everything to do with emissions on my 81 f150 302 and it runs just fine, just remember to get all the vacuum lines plugged and put bolts in the back of the heads where the crossover pipe was.
Don't block off the EGR on your 1985. The feedback carb is tuned for EGR, and you will have problems if you do. The EGR doesn't hurt anything. The air pump sucks though. Do whatever you want with it!
Originally posted by slifer 85 f150, 300....I'd like to know what all I can remove or block off from my air pump and egr. There is a check valve (one end screws into the carb spacer, the other goes into a hose that runs back to air pump) that rusted out on my truck. Is the air pump and egr stuff really needed? I was thinking about just taking the belt off the air pump and plugging the hole where the check valve used to be, but I don't know if all this stuff is needed or not. I have no emmisions testing where I live, I'd just like to fix this as easily as possible. The vac lines on my egr valve are also plugged, it's been like that since I bought it. Thanks
yes you definitely can remove it, and you should, the stuff costs a lot of money to replace and the EGR robs power.
FWIW, cars in Europe and Japan don't have that stuff. They still run leaded gas over there too.
If the Feds ever loosened out emission laws, you'd see Ford stop putting that crap on engines, cuz it adds to the cost of the truck, and is just another item to warranty, and to boot the EGR plain robs power. The air pump does too a bit, as it disrupts exhaust flow somewhat, and adds weight to the truck. Also the drag of the belt driving the pump. It all adds up.
Thats what I was hoping to hear. Could I just take the whole carburetor spacer off, and mount the carb straight to the intake or should I leave it and just block everything off? Thanks
I took everything for pullution off my 82 351w and put a 650 holley on it and it runs fine and passes with no problem I also have a 6" round air filter
If the egr is working properly it should not cost you power. I bypassed mine for a while but developed a major ping. Had to get new egr. At idle and full throttle there is no egr. At intermediate speed it should help mileage since it cools the burn for proper flame front in the combustion chamber (that is no ping which is a mixture burning too fast causing a shock wave.)
The check valve that goes into the carb spacer is there to add air to the intake when the vehicle is decelerating to prevent backfiring. You have a vacuum solenoid on the back of the valve cover which controls this. The check valve is dirt cheap from rockauto.com. The air pump also feeds the cat. to reduce emissions. With out it you could plug your cat.
As far as the egr is concerned its a contriversal issue I have mine disconnected, Runs fine without it.
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