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MUCH better, for sure, altho more sway still than I was expecting. Think I need to adjust the car back a little, and my convoy buddy said the trailer tongue is a little low. I'm using a Weight Safe drawbar with a 4" drop, and right now it's at the bottom so I'll try moving it up 1 or 2 holes to see of that improves it. I am nitpicking, tho ... it's waaaay better. And there was a LOT of traffic ... 3 lanes wide doing 75-80 ... me doing 72 most of the time. Anyway, very pleased
Its kinda light but have you considered a w/d hitch with sway control?
I would run that as long as your trailer is consistent.
Quite frankly that is why I run 3/4 tons and change the hitches on my F150s, because our trailer loads always change at work and we dont have time to mess with setting up a wd hitch.
Otherwise the w/d hitch is the way to go with something like that. Only caveat is off roading because it removes some flex.
Ford shocks also suck, after a few thousand miles consider getting some bilstein 5100 or 4600.
MUCH better, for sure, altho more sway still than I was expecting. Think I need to adjust the car back a little, and my convoy buddy said the trailer tongue is a little low. I'm using a Weight Safe drawbar with a 4" drop, and right now it's at the bottom so I'll try moving it up 1 or 2 holes to see of that improves it. I am nitpicking, tho ... it's waaaay better. And there was a LOT of traffic ... 3 lanes wide doing 75-80 ... me doing 72 most of the time. Anyway, very pleased
An inch or two height adjustment can make a night and day difference
MUCH better, for sure, altho more sway still than I was expecting. Think I need to adjust the car back a little, and my convoy buddy said the trailer tongue is a little low. I'm using a Weight Safe drawbar with a 4" drop, and right now it's at the bottom so I'll try moving it up 1 or 2 holes to see of that improves it. I am nitpicking, tho ... it's waaaay better. And there was a LOT of traffic ... 3 lanes wide doing 75-80 ... me doing 72 most of the time. Anyway, very pleased
Get the trailer as level as possible and more the car FORWARD not backward. Get the weight off the back of the trailer and the sway will go away. Weight behind the pivot point is where sway kicks in, the pivot point being the axles of the trailer. There are two pivot points actually, the ball joint and the axles. More weight in front of the axles s better than behind them. For a car hauler, unless enclosed, you shouldn't need a WDH, but an enclosed one has wind forces to deal with and it is recommended to have a sway controlling WDH.
Get the trailer as level as possible and more the car FORWARD not backward. Get the weight off the back of the trailer and the sway will go away. Weight behind the pivot point is where sway kicks in, the pivot point being the axles of the trailer. There are two pivot points actually, the ball joint and the axles. More weight in front of the axles s better than behind them. For a car hauler, unless enclosed, you shouldn't need a WDH, but an enclosed one has wind forces to deal with and it is recommended to have a sway controlling WDH.
It is indeed an enclosed 24' EZ Hauler, albeit aluminum, but yeah it's a big sail. Was really hoping to avoid having to add the additional steps of dealing with a WDH. May do it anyway, tho.
It is indeed an enclosed 24' EZ Hauler, albeit aluminum, but yeah it's a big sail. Was really hoping to avoid having to add the additional steps of dealing with a WDH. May do it anyway, tho.
Well a lot have the misconception that the bigger the truck the less sway they have to deal with. Reality is the sway is still there regardless what is pulling it. The larger heavier truck just deals with it better but to control it properly a Sway control hitch is still needed. A 4 point WDH will straighten that trailer out like it aint even there.
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