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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Engine will turn over but not start

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Old Jan 13, 2025 | 06:06 PM
  #1  
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shassell
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Engine will turn over but not start

Trying to get my Dad's old 1996 F350 running again. He had not started it in about a year but it was running before.

The engine will turn over (once or twice ran for a 1-2 seconds) but never started running. It's located on the coast in Mobile and it was in the 40-50s when I tried cranking. Didn't see any connector for an engine block heater.

It looks like a squirrel had nested but I don't see any chewed wires.

There is one wire not sure where it goes (see picture). Any idea where it should go. In the first picture it is circled in red which isn't the right location since that is a schreader valve.

Can the engine crank without Fuel restriction sensor hooked up?

Some other info:
  • front tank empty, rear tank 1/2 full. Switch set to rear tank but I have tried it with switch set to front tank as well
  • Pulled all fuses and visually checked. All looked good. Horn works so swapped that relay with the one for Injector IDM Diesel (R4)
  • Took the batteries to OReilly's for a full charge and they tested out good
  • When starting, also tried with a heavy duty battery charger installed on the primary battery
  • Installed a new fuel filter. Note, fuel is 1/4" from bottom when looking down in the cylinder where the fuel filter is installed
  • When cranking, am waiting until the "wait to start" light is off. Often when trying to crank it will display "fuel filter" and "engine temp"
  • Checked oil and dipstick reads full (oil is 15/40)
  • Have tried cranking for 20 seconds, waiting 30 and repeating for 30 minutes (got advice to do this since it may be trying to bleed air out of the system).
  • Tach needle on dashboard does move when trying to start(not much. Just about 1/8" up off the 0 rpm line)
  • Did not see any plug for a block heater but it is down south and in the 40/50s F right now



 

Last edited by shassell; Jan 13, 2025 at 06:38 PM. Reason: correction
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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 07:24 AM
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
Are you seeing NY white smoke out the exhaust while cranking?

if not, might be worth tossing some fuel in the front tank amd flipping to that. And puttong some fresh fuel in the rear couldn't hurt either. Sending unit may be off. The tank switch calve can stick and not actually pull from the selected tank.

 
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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 05:12 PM
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shassell
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
Are you seeing NY white smoke out the exhaust while cranking?

if not, might be worth tossing some fuel in the front tank amd flipping to that. And puttong some fresh fuel in the rear couldn't hurt either. Sending unit may be off. The tank switch calve can stick and not actually pull from the selected tank.
Hi,

Not seeing white smoke. Will try the idea of adding fuel (it may be a while before I can travel back to Mobile).

Any thoughts on these items?
  1. There is one wire not sure where it goes (see picture). Any idea where it should go? In the first picture it is circled in red which isn't the right location since that is a schreader valve.
  2. Can the engine crank without Fuel restriction sensor hooked up?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 04:10 AM
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
I'm not sure what those wires go to, but if you aren't seeing white smoke out the exhaust the engines not getting fuel. Easiest thing to do is add fuel to the front tank and see if it's the selector valve thats bad.

Most of those small random wires won't prevent a truck from starting. They'll cause an idle issue or turn a light on at most.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2025 | 10:29 PM
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Anyone know what the sensor is that is circled in yellow (see images). No wires are connected to it presently.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2025 | 05:03 AM
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
Found a thread that talks about that. It appears that sensor is not required for the truck to run, just activates a light.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html
 
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 05:00 PM
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Thanks Edgethis. You are right, that thread is exactly what I was asking about the sensor and wire!! Haven't found out yet where the wire is supposed to go but sound like the sensor is for fuel filter restriction and isn't required to start/run.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 07:26 PM
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I just had a similar thing with my sons F350, turns out there was excessive corrosion at the fuel sender unit, the 90 degree bend had a hole in it, was not getting fuel to the fuel bowl. wouldn't have found it if we didn't have the bed off!!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 12:32 PM
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No white smoke generally means no fuel. Need to solve that first. White smoke, no start generally means you're getting appropriate fuel, but it's not igniting. That's when you start digging into the glow plug system.

Sounds like you've cranked enough that any air in fuel or high pressure oil system should be gone. Some additional ideas...
  • What rpms are you turning when cranking? Too slow, injectors won't fire. And if no tach signal... that problem needs fixed. Good chance its the cam position sensor or wiring near the connector.
  • Second the notion of adding somewhere over 1/4 tank of fresh fuel to front tank. More than 1/4 in case "showerhead" pickup is broken on, which usually sucks air with about 1/4 tank left. Try starting with switch on rear, in case valve is stuck on rear tank and doesn't match switch. THEN switch to front tank and try that.
  • Injector pressure regulator screen is clean?
  • Fuel pressure when cranking? (cheap air valve on schrader valve on bowl)
  • Might be worthwhile to fill fuel bowl with fresh diesel and a bit of Diesel Klean or similar, and try again.

Are you SURE the tree rats didn't get any wires?

 
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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 06:32 PM
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Hi,
  • Re: No white smoke generally means no fuel. Need to solve that first
    • No white smoke. The fuel filter bowl only has about 1/4" fuel in it
  • Re: What rpms are you turning when cranking? Too slow, injectors won't fire. And if no tach signal... that problem needs fixed. Good chance its the cam position sensor or wiring near the connector.
    • When cranking, the tach needle does move but it's not much (maybe 1/8" off 0rpm. Well below 500 rpm mark)
  • Re: Second the notion of adding somewhere over 1/4 tank of fresh fuel to front tank. More than 1/4 in case "showerhead" pickup is broken on, which usually sucks air with about 1/4 tank left. Try starting with switch on rear, in case valve is stuck on rear tank and doesn't match switch. THEN switch to front tank and try that.
    • Will try it. I was thinking maybe getting about 10 gallons + Stab-Bil for Diesel and adding 5 gallons to both tanks.
  • Re: pressure regulator screen is clean?
    • I have not tried checking that.
  • Re: Fuel pressure when cranking? (cheap air valve on schrader valve on bowl)
    • Will check. Will a standard dial style tire pressure gauge with 4" hose work?
  • Re: be worthwhile to fill fuel bowl with fresh diesel and a bit of Diesel Klean or similar, and try again.
    • I was researching that too. Found one where the 7.3 had lost it's prime and they advised filling bowl 1/2 fuel of fresh diesel. About how much Diesel Klean do you think makes sense? Or I could just have it mixed with the 5 gallon and then pour to fill 1/2 fuel bowl
  • Re: Are you SURE the tree rats didn't get any wires
    • ​​​​​​​I've look all around at the wiring and I don't see anything amiss other than that one wire I mentioned in the posts but it's always possible I missed something
 
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 03:19 PM
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Your will need roughly 200 rpm before it will allow the injectors to fire. Did you check fuel pressure while cranking? With you report of low fuel level in the bowl, I would be looking that over and find out the condition of fuel delivery.
 
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