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Hubs not locking?

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Old Jan 12, 2025 | 07:16 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by gtg038y
Could I throw it on a lift, get the tires off the ground, spin the wheels to verify they're free, engage 4H and see if they engage? If they don't engage right away, I should then manually rotate the wheels and see if they can then engage?

If I have started to scratch the surface of understanding open differentials, then the opposed wheel should spin the opposite direction of the one I manually spin, correct?

Thank you, Jim!

Chris
Try the lift method, 9 out of 10 tries it will engage, but you may encounter some chatter because the rear wheels will be rotating and the fronts will be stationary. I have an XLT and both axles are open type, I have no issue in mud or snow, but it does have its limits. Try to find a vacuum diagram for these trucks, its a simple hose set up.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2025 | 07:39 AM
  #17  
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OP, PTT's YouTube video may provide some guidance on how to check 4x4 vacuum.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2025 | 06:05 PM
  #18  
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Here is another that is a bit more detailed

 
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Old Jan 13, 2025 | 01:37 AM
  #19  
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the auto feature isnt all that reliable. certainly nobody would dare bet their life on it. if you can tolerate the inconvenience of manual hubs then your best bet is put in some warn hubs
 
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Old Jan 13, 2025 | 06:25 AM
  #20  
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One thing I have found that works really well is to put the truck in 4wd before driving into a questionable situation. It doesn’t work so goodly when your already stuck.

You say when you engage it on pavement you feel minimal change- do this test- in a parking lot put the truck in 4wd hi and do a couple of tight figure 8’s. The front end should skip and hop and feel all kinds of weird. If it does that you at least know the 4wd is engaged and functioning correctly.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 02:28 AM
  #21  
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I have the electronic locking rear differential and drive in snowy conditions often with crummy OEM tires. Often I back out of my garage into the snow and find one wheel spinning. Just for kicks I’ll engage the diff lock and maybe once out of probably 100 times or more, over the last 13 years with various F350s having the electronic locking diff, the act of locking the diff made a difference. Every time this happens I disengage the diff lock and engage 4wd and away it goes. I find the locking diff to be of no value.
If you find you have a vacuum leak on one of your hub seals you could simply lock that hub manually and plug off the vacuum line to that axle. Doing this would give you the same vacuum actuated locking hub system as the 2024 trucks. (In 2024 Ford went to a system where they only provide one hub that can be unlocked ….the right hand hub is always engaged)
 
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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 04:26 AM
  #22  
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My experience is very different than what 4by4ord reports. In my 2015 F-150, I did quite a bit of off-roading. Living in east TN, it is very hilly / mountainous and several of the off road trails I frequent are steep. Depending upon moisture, the amount of traction available is questionable. There were multiple times where I would start to have one rear wheel spin when climbing. More often than not, engaging the EL was enough for the truck to complete the climb.

When in my current Super Duty I find it behaves exactly the same. The EL usually allows me enough traction to get over whatever obstacle I am dealing with.

I guess a big difference would be I am not riding on "crummy OEM tires" like 4by40rd.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 06:16 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 4by4ord
I have the electronic locking rear differential and drive in snowy conditions often with crummy OEM tires. Often I back out of my garage into the snow and find one wheel spinning. Just for kicks I’ll engage the diff lock and maybe once out of probably 100 times or more, over the last 13 years with various F350s having the electronic locking diff, the act of locking the diff made a difference. Every time this happens I disengage the diff lock and engage 4wd and away it goes. I find the locking diff to be of no value.
If you find you have a vacuum leak on one of your hub seals you could simply lock that hub manually and plug off the vacuum line to that axle. Doing this would give you the same vacuum actuated locking hub system as the 2024 trucks. (In 2024 Ford went to a system where they only provide one hub that can be unlocked ….the right hand hub is always engaged)
I think the locking differential is not helping you in the described situation because the traction imbalance is front to rear not side to side. Even with the differential locked, neither rear tire has enough traction to pull the truck out of the garage.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 08:04 AM
  #24  
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Thank you all for the information and advice!!!

I'm going to try to get to the MWR Auto Hobby shop this weekend and try your suggestions. I'll report back on what I find.

If any of you or anyone else has any additional thoughts or advice on the matter, between now and then, please keep 'em coming!

Thanks again!

Chris

Thank you
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 03:19 PM
  #25  
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I've had both hub options. If you or the previous owner has ever taken the hub apart, greased it and reassembled you may have isues getting the vacuum engagement to work properly. Using to much or to heavy of a grease will hold the planetary hub gears from engaging. This is the issue my truck has right now, I used to heavy/to much grease when installing a hub. I keep them both locked and use the ESOF **** when i need 4x4. If you are in a situation where you are mostly stuck, have the wheels spinning and engage the ESOF(aut locking hub position) you can grenade a hub when the hub finally locks into position. Like it was said above, the front tires need to be moving to allow the planetary gears to mesh up and lock the axle shaft to the wheel hub.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 10:49 PM
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Try clearing the snow off the driveway before you try to take the truck out of the garage…
 
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