Wondering if someone could set me straight. Just bought my first Excursion which has manual hubs. The auto/lock indicators are no longer visable.My question is if they are turned to the left are they in auto or the locked position. Also after putting switch in the truck to 4 wheel high what needs to be done with the locking hubs. I am assuming if in auto then nothing and if auto is not working then hubs need to be turned to manual. Also after putting back into 2wd I have heard that the need to back up to dis-engage ??? Any truth to that? Thanks for the help.

 

Lots of good reading here. Most go with aftermarket manual hubs since the factory ones are short lived without vigilent maintenance.

Clockwise to lock and counter to go to auto.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...king-hubs.html

 

With manual hubs it's a 2step process. First, get out, and turn the hubs. That will engage the front wheels to the front axles. Then, get in and turn the switch to 4-hi, that will engage the front axles to the drive portion of the transmission.

Once upon a time, you had to back up 10 feet to disengage the hubs, but that's from back in the day. Now, you just turn thehubs to unlock, put in 2wd hi, and drive. Once there is no strain on the system, it will disengage. The old system you'd put in 2wd again, but the hubs would stick in place. Backing up reversed them, pulling them out, but now simply reverseing the forward torque on the drives will disengage them.

I have auto-locking hubs, and swear by them. When I need it, I flick the siwtch and bam, 4wd. When the need is over, i switch back to 2wd, but I know that 4wd is engaged until I let the engine slow me down. So I take my foot off the accelerator and let the compression of the engine slow me down for a second. That is all you need to disengage the drivetrain from the front axles. It's a turn system, you turn them back, but as long as there is forward pressure they won't slide back, this comes from the accelerator. Engine breaking will cause the tires to go forward and be dragged back by the engine, thus relieving the stress.

Sorry if this is not as clear as can be, but i'm drunk as hell and trying to ignore the spelling mistakes, while trying to remember the mechanics of how the 4wd system works.

auto hubs are easy, locking hubs, you should not worrry about it, becuse you have to physically stop to disengage the front hubs anyways. During that time, an occurance should happen where your hubs are disengaged. You will notice if they're still engaged, there will be great resistance on the front wheels, try driving in 4wd and taking the wheel to lock on a snowy surface. You will feel the resistance as you gradually pull forward. then the one wheel will slip, and it will go away, then build again gradually. When that happens, you are in 4wd. If it doesn't, the front axels and hubs are disengaged.

 

Thanks for the Info, You explained it perfect for a man who is pie eyed, thanks again and enjoy the rest of the night..

 

I think aftermarket manual hubs would be better and stronger if you did alot of off roading..........but for my use the autos work fine.....you have to spray the "crack" around the circumference where they turn with silicone spray or WD 40 occasionally to keep the from freezing up.....spray ...turn them in and a few time until they limber up... also keep a close eye on the vaccum lines