Dual Stabilizer kit
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 549
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From: Anacortes
Well before you jump to replace the rotors, what about a free connection point check? Inst the tie rods, ball joints, steering box bolts, wheel bearings, steering shaft ends (2) and the steering shaft u joint. Steering box internally good? Last front end alignment, front tires cupped on the outer edges?
Brakes and components were all re done last year.
steering shaft and u joint haven't been touched or the box, PS was replaced witha good one not a reman.
Gonna probably pull front shocks tomorrow because they look like they are from 1978.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,261
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
With the brakes redone last year, I can not imagine that your rotors are warped. But if the lug nuts were impact gun installed and installer just went until the gun stopped, that could cause some warpage. And if you are on on the gas and on the brakes hard (a lot), I guess that could warp them. And even the hot brake rotors and then a puddle of water. Going to take them and and see about getting them true turned/checked?
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,848
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
TGP ..... You mentioned a pull too.
Just an experience a couple years ago, taking the '77 to town to get in inspected. As I drove, it being a 14 mile trip one way, I began to smell heat. Went to stop at a wide pull over at the dumpster, truck pulled right, and when I got out, found was the left front brake hot and stinking. Released the left side caliper bleeder, it was under pressure. Drove on to the station staying off the brake, letting the trans slow me, got lucky at the lights, it inspected OK, opened the same bleeder to release pressure again (from where I had stopped in the parking lot). Drove home again staying off the brake, but after stopping at home, real gently, it still had pressure. Had I used the brake hard, would have had to open a bleeder just to move. The brake hose to the left front was plugged, I replaced both as I had new spares. I really should put those SS hoses on I guess.
Just an experience a couple years ago, taking the '77 to town to get in inspected. As I drove, it being a 14 mile trip one way, I began to smell heat. Went to stop at a wide pull over at the dumpster, truck pulled right, and when I got out, found was the left front brake hot and stinking. Released the left side caliper bleeder, it was under pressure. Drove on to the station staying off the brake, letting the trans slow me, got lucky at the lights, it inspected OK, opened the same bleeder to release pressure again (from where I had stopped in the parking lot). Drove home again staying off the brake, but after stopping at home, real gently, it still had pressure. Had I used the brake hard, would have had to open a bleeder just to move. The brake hose to the left front was plugged, I replaced both as I had new spares. I really should put those SS hoses on I guess.
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From: Anacortes
Gonna try and do shocks this weekend if weather and time permit, the pull is more noticeable when slowing from hwy speeds. I checked the wheels for excessive heat the other day didn't really feel anything or smell anything weird.
I've been putting it off for months but I was gonna try and pop the top off the master and leave a weight on the pedal over night just to be sure they got all the air out. When I did the booster the pedal was perfect, I set the piston to the master perfectly, after break job I don't think they got that piston quite right.
If I remember correctly the only component they did not replace in the system was the proportioning valve.
I've been putting it off for months but I was gonna try and pop the top off the master and leave a weight on the pedal over night just to be sure they got all the air out. When I did the booster the pedal was perfect, I set the piston to the master perfectly, after break job I don't think they got that piston quite right.
If I remember correctly the only component they did not replace in the system was the proportioning valve.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,612
Likes: 1,182
From: San Jose, CA
Didn't notice if it was mentioned, but check the tire pressures as well. Make sure they're not simply maxed out, and make sure they're equal side to side.
You can also change the pressure, adding more or taking some out, to see if it changes the pull and or light shimmy.
Brake rotors can warp under just about any mileage. And I no longer think that it takes a lot to do it either. Modern parts, yes, even brake rotors, can be made to sub-standard specifications and not last like they used to.
Still, certainly plenty of other things to check. Just saying, don't rule out new parts as not possible culprits.
Paul
You can also change the pressure, adding more or taking some out, to see if it changes the pull and or light shimmy.
Brake rotors can warp under just about any mileage. And I no longer think that it takes a lot to do it either. Modern parts, yes, even brake rotors, can be made to sub-standard specifications and not last like they used to.
Still, certainly plenty of other things to check. Just saying, don't rule out new parts as not possible culprits.
Paul
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Joined: Jul 2017
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From: San Jose, CA
Exactly! Same for Death Wobble diagnosing, which is different from shimmies and regular wobbles. But the test is still valid for any of the above.
A worn tire can act differently under braking load than it does just cruising down the road.
Good call Rich.
Paul
A worn tire can act differently under braking load than it does just cruising down the road.
Good call Rich.
Paul
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More Turbo
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From: Anacortes
Yeah I checked the tires yesterday, they recommended 40F/70R but I ain't haulin any loads or pulling anything so I put em all to 50 for now to see if that changes anything. I did notice they used A TON of wheel weights. Open range mazama ATs I think max load 80 I think.
I think I had this shimmy problem with the old tires too though.
Yes lol I've had my fair share of new bad parts on this truck and Im not ruling the rotors out.
I think I had this shimmy problem with the old tires too though.
Yes lol I've had my fair share of new bad parts on this truck and Im not ruling the rotors out.
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Brett Foote
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From: Arlington,Wa
Yeah I checked the tires yesterday, they recommended 40F/70R but I ain't haulin any loads or pulling anything so I put em all to 50 for now to see if that changes anything. I did notice they used A TON of wheel weights. Open range mazama ATs I think max load 80 I think.
I think I had this shimmy problem with the old tires too though.
Yes lol I've had my fair share of new bad parts on this truck and Im not ruling the rotors out.
I think I had this shimmy problem with the old tires too though.
Yes lol I've had my fair share of new bad parts on this truck and Im not ruling the rotors out.
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More Turbo
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From: Anacortes
I've only had them since like August or September but so far I like them.
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More Turbo
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From: Anacortes
Went and had Les Schwab due an inspection today, they found nothing but they do notice the shimmy when braking. They weren't too sure what the cause would be, I'm wondering if its time for new cab mounts, the kid said he thought it felt more like the body shaking.
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