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You can just get a replacement single steering shock/stabilizer (fairly cheap) and get back on the road. No need for that dual set up and the $ spent, yes not as COOL looking, but not really needed in the 1st place.
If you just have to have one, most kits are bolt and go with some clamp on brackets. No welding, just make sure they are installed correctly, so you do not limit/restrict your steering range.
How big are your tires? It would be an over-kill for 33" or less. The single will handle it fine. Also, I believe that you have to have at least a 2" lift for the dual stabilizer, to clear other stuff. My F150 has a heavy duty Skyjacker single and I'm running 35s and it handles everything fine. With the right enginuity, I bet you can make it work.
The truck has 33" tires and the whole front end suspension appears to be factory; no crossover steering, factory springs with helpers, no evidence of a lift, factory sway bar and end links, normal shocks, dana 44 front.
Its a pretty vanilla front end minus the weight/rake of the 460. Old stabilizer is barely visible.
There should be no need for a damper/stabilizer with any sized tires, if the suspension and steering is decent. The factory put them on trucks to make steering wheel more 'dead' when hitting a bumps in the road.
Dual stabilizers are typically installed to combat death wobble from worn out parts and/or poor geometry, but cannot address the root cause.
Compete waste of money IMO. I run 40" tires no stabilizer.
One could argue that the bigger tires with more mass would have less need for a stabilizer to dampen steering.
As others have suggested, sticking with a single steering stabilizer is the way to go. Since you didn’t mention any issues like poor steering it sounds like everything was working fine and your current stabilizer is just worn out. We’ve got several options for you, with Skyjacker being one of the most popular choices. Here are all the available single stabilizer options.
If you’re set on a dual stabilizer kit, the Skyjacker 9220 would be a good choice. It’s a bolt-on kit, so no welding or fabrication would be necessary.
Let us know if we can assist further. We’d be happy to help!
Sure thanks for all the opinions everybody. My thought towards moving towards the dual was due to the fact that the truck is 47 years old and could use all the help it can get. I had wheels put on recently and an alignment and they showed me the little chart with the corrections, I think the toe or camber on passengers front the couldn't get all the way perfect but close enough to not worry? Metal fatigue is a thing and who knows what hungover technician built the truck on a Monday morning.
The front is definately shot, I have a slight shimmy in the front end when breaking and a slight pull to the right and I figured it was cause the stabilizer was shot. Techs who did my tires said it was shot as well along with all my shocks, and they aren't wrong.
Tierods are good, u joints are fine, wheels, brakes, bearings and seals are all done. New brake lines and master cylnder, new tires.
That just leaves sway bar bushing, shocks, stabilizer and leaf spring bushings that need to be replaced I believe.
The front is definately shot, I have a slight shimmy in the front end when breaking and a slight pull to the right and I figured it was cause the stabilizer was shot. Techs who did my tires said it was shot as well along with all my shocks, and they aren't wrong.
Tierods are good, u joints are fine, wheels, brakes, bearings and seals are all done. New brake lines and master cylnder, new tires.
That just leaves sway bar bushing, shocks, stabilizer and leaf spring bushings that need to be replaced I believe.
I had a death wobble ..... was a 1970 Chevy CST-10 2x4, the 8" wide wheels with worn upper ball joints was the cause, but just new upper ball joints fixed it ... and even 4x4s have ball joints.
Sure thanks for all the opinions everybody. My thought towards moving towards the dual was due to the fact that the truck is 47 years old and could use all the help it can get. I had wheels put on recently and an alignment and they showed me the little chart with the corrections, I think the toe or camber on passengers front the couldn't get all the way perfect but close enough to not worry? Metal fatigue is a thing and who knows what hungover technician built the truck on a Monday morning.
The front is definately shot, I have a slight shimmy in the front end when breaking and a slight pull to the right and I figured it was cause the stabilizer was shot. Techs who did my tires said it was shot as well along with all my shocks, and they aren't wrong.
Tierods are good, u joints are fine, wheels, brakes, bearings and seals are all done. New brake lines and master cylnder, new tires.
That just leaves sway bar bushing, shocks, stabilizer and leaf spring bushings that need to be replaced I believe.
I agree with other posters that if all the components are good such as ball joints, tie-rods, draglink, leaf spring bushings and your steering geometry is correct a stabilizer isn't required or does very little other than absorb a little bit of the feedback from the road.
If you are pulling to one side when brakes are applied you might have a caliper that is sticking on the opposite side that it is pulling too. It will pull in the direction of the working caliper. The shimmy you feel could be warped rotors.
Did you replace or have your rotors turned when you did the brakes?
Were the wheel bearings properly torqued down? I am not sure what the service manual says, but the way I was taught to do wheel bearings is to rotate the hub while you are tightening the first spindle nut, tighten until you cannot turn the hub anymore. This properly seats the bearings, you then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn, put the locking washer in place, add second spindle nut and tighten to proper torque spec.
If they were not able to get the toe setting correct that would be odd unless the drag-link kept them from doing so. That is literally the only real adjustment you can make when "aligning" these trucks. Is this truck lifted or stock height?
Camber is not something that is easily adjusted and there is very minimal camber adjustment that can be done. You have to remove the steering knuckle and where the upper ball-joint slides into the axle housing there is a tapered/offset adjustable sleeve. That is set from factory and should never need to be changed. If the camber is off, I am thinking your ball joints need to be replaced.
Last thought, something as simple as too low of tire pressure can cause the truck to wander and wobble at speed. My '11 F350 I tried to drop tire pressures when I wasn't going to be towing or hauling anything and dropped to 45 psi, truck wandered bad, started to wobble at high speed, etc. Bumped pressures back up to 65 and all that went away.
I had a death wobble ..... was a 1970 Chevy CST-10 2x4, the 8" wide wheels with worn upper ball joints was the cause, but just new upper ball joints fixed it ... and even 4x4s have ball joints.
I had the death wobble in my 2018 jeep wrangler once, that was fun.
Ball joints were all in spec, most of the work was done by les schwab as I have no good place to do this where I live. Trade off for livin on a boat is no where to work on your rig.
Yes to new rotors, I know sometimes brakes pull the vehicle and Im not a suspension expert but I just figured the slight pull only when braking was due to the stabilizer. Calipers are new as well.
The shimmy is slight and only when breaking. No problems with anything at speed.
Well I was able to get the old one off today breaking, snapping, grinding or cutting anything. Came off pretty easy actually. Was 100% blown out.
Thanks all for the advice and opinions, I'm just going to replace with a single Monroe, cause that is what green box store had available for pickup tomorrow morning.
Well before you jump to replace the rotors, what about a free connection point check? Inst the tie rods, ball joints, steering box bolts, wheel bearings, steering shaft ends (2) and the steering shaft u joint. Steering box internally good? Last front end alignment, front tires cupped on the outer edges?
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