Windshield Wiper Blade
I have the original wiper arms (chrome) and I need to replace my wiper blades? How do I take only the rubber blade off the arm? I see there are clips at one end and I guess the rubber would just slide out?
I have tried but could not get any movement.
Please explain.
Or upgrade to J hook style arms and blades.
I posted this years ago but you may still check at Advance Auto.I think they were called maybe "Classic Refills"
May check here also,not sure if these will work? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...973-ford-f-100
TricoInterchange Part Number33150Length15"OE/OEM Part NumberTricoModel33-150
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Or upgrade to J hook style arms and blades.
They also put the blade in the middle of the windshield while in the off position.
The splines do line up but that’s about it.
These aren’t angled like the factory blades are.
the first pic shows the difference in length. The jeep arm is 2-3 inches longer.
These next to pics show the base of the arm. Notice the angle in the OEM arm. This gets things up away from the cowl nicely clearancing everything. The jeep arm is significantly wider and has the locking device all which create significant clearance issues.
So, recalling that some many months ago I had purchased two newer style hook arms that fit 1991-96 Ford F-150 PUs and maybe others, today I decided to shorten and fit them with new blades.
Start with two # 42631 wiper arms, they have the hook end and fit the wiper shafts of our '73-'79 dentsides. You'll also need two 16" wiper blades to fit new hook ends as well as two new 1/8" stainless steel pop rivets.
First, I needed to determine "how long" they should be. I removed my stock blade / arms and assembled one #42631 arm and 16" blade, I slipped it part way onto the wiper shaft and saw that this combo needed to be a hair over 3" shorter to not hit the top rubber of the windshield.
- I settled on 3-1/4" (3.25).... then I:
- Used long needle nose pliars to unhook springs.
- Drilled out the rivet with 1/8" drill.
- Spread the crimped end open to seperate arm parts.
- Marked narrow shaft for new rivet hole 3.25" away from original hole.
- Drilled the 1/8" hole.
- Cut exactly 3.25" off narrow shaft.
- Drilled a second 1/8" hole for spring, and chamfer this hole as a round spring hook will use it.
- Bent end with spring hole up slightly for spring hook clearance.
- Reassembled arm halves and test for spring to hole fit .... then and secure with new 1/8" stainless steel 1/4 or 5/16" long pop rivet (you can use a small screw and nut, but I doubt athat an aluminum pop rivet will last long).
- Used aluminum vice jaw protectors on vice to re-squeeze crimp of lower arm onto narrow beam part.
- Used same long needle nose pliars to hook hole in spring retainer and rehook in position.
- Applied some never seize to shaft splines and install with wipers in parked position.
They will just cross over if clocked in a lower park position and provide a good 1-1/2" overlap if parked one notch high. Now you can find new blades anywhere in a wide variety of styles. I parked mine one notch or tooth high on the shafts as if clocked to park low, they "slap" the lower windshield rubber on a wet windshield.
I need to touch up my shiney stainless steel pop rivet. I tried them in the rain that started towards the end, they swipe clean and you can tell the springs apply more pressure.















