2004 F150 5.4 3 valve. The usual problem. The grandson attempted to change plugs on his truck,broke the front 6,stopped and called me. I removed the front 6 plugs and number 8 with the Lisle extraction tool,went to work on hole 4. It had been soaking in Kroil overnight. I unscrewed the plug with the socket but I think this one did not break like the other 7. It spins easy enough and I'm sure it's completely unthreaded but It's stuck in the hole. Not absolutely sure it didn't break but who knows? Any thoughts on this? Thanks!

 

Sounds like the lower shank below the threads is carbon froze in the hole & the plug & porcelain is just rotating inside the shell.
Probably the only thing holding it in is the lip under the threads that clamps the lower section.

I suppose it is also possible a previous owner installed a helicoil & the threads are now &*%#$@!

Not to rag on the grandson, but the part where you said he stopped & called you after the first 6! SIX?!
Sorry this made me laugh a little.
That's where you give him the look & say, "listen boy, 1 fine, maybe 2 & THAT is the time to call me".

 

Yeah,the kid didn't have the new plugs yet and thought what he got was all there was.With a phone in hand constantly you would think Google would have been on the menu. Anyway,I think your diagnosis is probably correct. I doubt there is a helicoil in there but I guess that's a possibility. I made a grabbing device for the metal body of the plug that I'm reasonably sure will work. Hope it pulls the whole thing out or breaks the porcelain off to where I can use the Lisle extractor.

 

My #8 way back under the firewall just the outer metal came loose, left the porcelain and lower barrel stuck in there. I could not get to the top of the plug to break it and then pull the lower either. Amazon overnight shipped a Lisle 65710 porcelain puller. It is a piece fits through that aluminum tube in the kit, it'll snap on the plug tip in the hole, then slide the aluminum tube down, use provided nuts, and pull the whole porcelain with center out, then use the barrel puller. Once snapped on, when the tube is slid on, it is locked on until the tube is removed. Once the puller got here, took maybe 15 minutes. Added to a #65600 kit it makes a # 65700 kit.

 

Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately past that stage.The metal threaded body finally came out with the top of the porcelain. With a bore scope I could see that it broke at a 45 degree angle,half in and half out of the barrel. The pusher in 65600 apparently hit the angled porcelain,went off to the side and wedged in there. I put a great amount of pressure on the screw but the porcelain would not move through the barrel. Definitely didn't want to damage the barrel so the threads on the puller wouldn't start,or pull the threads out of the head so...the short version is I got a long 5/16 carbide tipped masonry bit and with a bunch modifications and universal joints and used a hammer drill to level out the porcelain so the pusher would work,got the puller screwed in and the barrel out. WHEW!!