I don't see anywhere else to post this so I'll try here. My 1960 4X4 has a 223 in line six. I thought the heat riser was frozen and removed both the intake and exhaust manifolds in one piece. I removed the frozen heat riser flap & installed new gaskets. Now I can't get the engine to run. It almost starts with some gas down the carb and then choking it fully but only sputters and then dies. I've checked the fuel pump and the carb is getting fuel. Since it was running before I removed the manifolds I'm assuming I must have a serious vacuum leak. Seemed like a pretty simple R&R but I must have done something wrong. Can I just remove the intake or do I have to remove them together again.

 

Sounds funny. I guess if I were going to remove it again, I would take both off since they are on the same gasket. The gasket is what I was wondering about in addition to hooking up and vacuum lines that you have. Another dumb question, are you out of gas? Do you happen to have a glass float bowl to see the gas? Hope you get it running soon.

 

Not a dumb question. I'm prior service and you wouldn't believe how many parts were changed, including engines, when the vehicle was actually out of gas.
I plugged all the holes below the carb and the only vacuum I have hooked up is to the distributor. My fuel pump only has a steel bowl not glass.
While pondering this issue I rembered there were some of the metal rings missing on the intake, see below. I ordered them and installed them. Maybe one or more of these are cockeyed.

Mine is a 60 but I couldn't quickly find a 60's diagram.

 

How was the carb gasket when you put it back on?

 

I replaced it. It came in the set.

 

I agree. Surfaces must be clean and smooth when new gasket is installed, I believe there is a one piece intake exhaust gasket available from Fel Pro. Manifold bolts needs to be torqued down evenly.

 

Sometimes the sealing alignment rings are not seated right which causes vacuum leaks.

 

I took it back apart and one of the rings had fallen out and is missing Also the base of the carb was slightly loose. Waiting for a new ring for final results.

 

Put the missing ring in the intake, found out the manifold gasket set wasn't right and had to use high temp gasket maker between the intake & exhaust manifolds. Then found the carb base was a little loose and tightened it. After that it fired. It was getting late when I finally got it to pop off so I need to see if I can get it to run better today. I've got new electronic ignition, wires, cap & rotor but I can't seem to find the new plugs (I think I bought).

 

Well the new Pertronix module (91261) doesn't fit my 223 distributor. Anyone have a part number for one that will fit? I'd really like to go pointlessly if possible.

 

Here you go: pertronix ignitor - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

I have one on my Ford 4-cylinder tractor, came that way and works well.

 

Received a 1266 PETRONIX and it fits right in. But I couldn't figure out how to snake the wires into the distributor without removing it. When I removed it there was a VERY damaged cotter key holding the oil pump drive shaft on to the distributor. Is there supposed to be a press fit hardened pin holding the two together?