Ahem, so honest question. I'm picking up a 1960 4 speed 4x4 and I would like advice on how to drive it. I sort of know how to drive shift on 1990 and newer cars but just not sure with terminology and best practices in regards to older models.

For example, am I going to start the truck from a stop in second gear, or do I do 1st, 2nd, 3rd and then 4th like normal? I was taught to "save the clutch", so put it in neutral with the parking brake on and then start the truck and then shift it into gear once it's warmed up.
If you're doing a tight turn do you go into neutral and coast or do you just down shift?

Finally, driving in 4x4, if you're doing to be do 25-45 MPh I'm guessing there is a hi and low 4x4 option? Does the truck need to be stopped and in neutral to shift into 4x4?

Any tips to keep the transmission, clutch and 4x4 in the best condition would be great!

Now's the time to share all the wisdom your dad and older brothers shared with you when you were learning to drive! Ask them tomorrow at Thanksgiving dinner! Thanks!

 

Welcome to FTE

Not knowing the transmission you have in the truck but guessing it has what we call a granny first gear, vary low.
If that is the case most of the time empty you drive it as a 3sp starting off in 2nd gear. If you are on a steep hill, pulling a heavy load or you find the rear gear ratio to tall and need to slip the clutch then start in the granny 1st. Just note it will be a little hard to shift from the granny gear to 2nd because 1st is not syncro and the way the gear is cut.

As for starting the motor in neutral with brake on or not is up to you and how long warm up takes.
My 81 F100 with a 300 six I start it in gear, check the oil gauge and if ok back it out of the garage. I may or may not set the brake depending on what I need to do but most of the time no brake, put belt on and start down drive and on to the road. If I need to get something out of my garage, different than where parked, I set the brake till loaded then down drive.

You never want to coast out of gear as you are no longer in control. For CDL drivers test you CAN NOT coast, clutch in or out of gear, more than the length of the truck or you fail!
Pick the gear you would need to be in after the turn before you make the turn, down shift into that gear before the turn, then you just need to give it throttle coming out of the turn.
Truck / car is in gear under control the whole time.

As for 4x4 and high or low range it all depends on the conditions.
You ONLY want to be in 4x4 when it is slick out like ice & snow and that has to cover most if not all the road, and maybe off road in mudd.
The wheels need to "slip" between front and rear axles or you bind the drive train and can break something like a drive shaft, transfer case or a axle and why you ONLY use 4x4 when the wheels can slip.
So if the road is only covered by say 50% snow I dont see the need to use 4x4. If snow is that deep in the other 50% then maybe you should not be out?

High / low range, I have never used low range on the road even in trucks with over drive transmissions as the RPM on the motor I felt was to high.
Only one time I needed to use 4x4 for a long time, L.I NY to CT on xmas eve in a blizzard and it was high range at 50 MPH as I was the only nut on the road!
I did not use 4x4 pulling a trailer to VT in a snow storm, again only one on the road in high range.

Now if you are off road not going fast then low range works great as you use the gearing of the truck and the motor power to get through the trail, no need to slip the clutch (burn it up).
Now you may not have snow off road but most of the time you have enough slippage when on dirt not to bind the drive train. If you have to make a sharp turn like a U turn you may want to take it out of 4x4 or unlock the front hubs till after the turn and lock it back in.

I have also used low range and not lock the front hubs when moving trailers around the yard as I was going slow, trailer were light weight and it was easier on clutch and to control.
You just have to be careful as you will have a lot of TQ going to 1 axle in low and hubs not locked but if you go easy it can be done with out issues.

BTW I have also raced 4x4's off road and we did that in low range and 4x4. 10 truck for 10 laps on a Moto-X track lot of fun when young
Dave ----

 

I forgot you can leave the front hubs locked and shift in & out of 4x4 high when moving as long as none of the tires are spinning, they all have to be turning at the same speed.
Going in and out of high / low range you MUST be stopped.

On trucks that had front locking hubs I would lock them at first snow and this way I only had to shift in or out of 4x4 high.
I also made a game of seeing how far I could drive in 4x2 with out getting stuck and doing it safely and if I got to a point I thought I would get stuck I shifted in to 4x4, wheels not spinning, as the hubs were locked.

note: with hubs locked you will most likely lower the MPG as it will take a little more power to spin the axles and front drive shaft.
It also will add a little wear as they are spinning.
Had 230k on my 86 K5 Blazer and no issues with 4x4. My 02 Dodge has 290k but dose not have locking hubs, flip a switch for 4x4 and low range.
Dave ----

 

Thanks! I didn't realize I would have to manually lock the front wheels. I unfortunately have to drive no matter the weather, so I'll be using the 4 wheel drive on country roads and city streets. I guess I'll just need to pay attention to the concrete a little more closely.

It's a stock 4 speed, everything on the truck to my understanding is stock, so trying to figure out as much as I can about it. I pick it up in a week or so. It's going to be driven during cold Midwest weather, so all the fancy 1960 amenities are going to be used!

 

Do not drive it in 4WD. If you expect rough going or snow, keep the hubs locked, then shift into 4x4 when you need to.

Otherwise, keep the hubs unlocked, and TC out of 4x4.

 

If the vehicle is factory stock, there are no locking hubs. Front axle is turning all the time.

 

Okay, just to make sure I have this right. I have a stock 1960 4x4 with stick 4 speed transmission.

• For 4wd, I only use it if the wheels can spin independently (i.e. there's snow/ice on the road preventing the tire from making contact with the concrete).
• The stock truck doesn't require me to lock the front wheels to prepare for 4x4
• In order to engage the 4wd, the transmission should be in neutral. Ideally the parking brake is on when you switch to 4x4. However, if all tires are moving in sync, you could technically flip it to 4x4 whole moving in neutral.
• Low 4x4 would be if only driving in 1st or 2nd gear, Hi 4x4 is for when you are planning on driving in 3rd and 4th gear (but still starting to move the truck either in 1st or 2nd gear and then eventually switch to 3rd and 4th gear)
• For normal driving without 4x4, you don't need to use 1st gear unless on a hill or carrying a load
• For shifting, there's no syncro between 1st and 2nd gear, to matching engine rpm to transmission speed is important, I could double clutch to help shifting between 1st and 2nd.
• Don't coast in neutral, not as safe and doesn't save any the transmission

is that everything? Thanks everyone for the advice!

 

Sorry I did not know the truck did not have locking hubs.
The oldest truck I had was a 66 Bronco and it had locking hubs. Others were 73-76-86 Blazer and a 73 Toyota L/C.

With the granny 1st I really dont see the need for low range in 4x4.
Heck you may find that 4th in low range is like 1st or 2nd in high range you will not be going vary fast without spinning the motor high.
At first snow find a empty parking lot. May need to get there in high 4x4 but put it in low range so you see how it works and what RPM in 4th at what speed you will see it is not fast.
Heck granny and low range you can let it idle and walk faster than it will move.

Oh does the truck have vacuum wipers?
If so look in to a conversion kit to electric as you will hate vacuum wipers, that Bronco had them and I only drove it in the snow once and for plowing.
Give it throttle and the wipers stop, add heavy wet snow and you were driving blind!
Dave ----

 

Welcome to FTE

Great advice guys. I 2nd the stock front axle didn't have locking hubs. Mine was modified on just the passenger wheel. I bought a new set of Warn locking hubs and installed them with little effort on my part.