When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
[QUOTE=hugho;21417831I see a whole passel of fuse links on the starter solenoid and need to find out what they serve but I will need a wiring diagram![/QUOTE]
By any chance, did you try removing those fusible links to see if one of them is the source of the draw? Agree you need a good manual but at least if you do this, and are successful at finding the culprit, when you do get the manual you'll know exactly what to troubleshoot.
Thank you gentlemen(women?) for your help. I have ordered factory manuals(NOT USB/CD) and a EVTM to get proper wiring diagrams. While waiting for delivery I decided to try to solve my other big problem: my NO START. I made the long trip back from Idaho to WY using the front tank as recommended by the PO. I had a full back tank and switched the tank the next morning. NO START. Switching back to front:Nada. With the helpful fuel pump wiring diagram posted here I found my tank switch was bad. Ordered a new one and pulled the old one out. I decided to check if pulling it out changed my draw. NO DRAW!. I left the battery connected and checked V in the morning and it was still 12.7 Volts. I checked the switch. the pins supplying the fuel level were fine but no continuity on the pump feed, mid or aft tank. Mystery appears solved.
Another way to track down the culprit is a harbor freight DC amp meter. They have several but they are AC so be certain before you buy to make sure it will measure DC Amps. I paid $85 for mine and was able to test several locations of circuits to watch when the computer shuts things off (wife's European trash car) and found the problem was the regulator not getting signal to charge. After testing my battery to make sure it was good I had to rule out parasitic drain and this was the ticket. My '84 Mustang had similar problem and it was the external regulator was not getting any voltage back from ammeter in dash/ignition switch. That's why a diagram is crucial. Very helpful tool.
thank you. I have a clamp meter but it seems to be great for big current flows and my draw was big: 3.49 amps. mine doesn't seem to like miliamp flows but then again it is not a Fluke. I think my draw is in a bad tank switch but I need to hook up my new switch to see if that fixes it. It could be in the pump wiring or even the pumps. stay posted
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
