94 Explorer 4WD Problem
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94 Explorer 4WD Problem
Hi. My 94 Explorer has 191,000 miles. It has the original auto hubs. When I push the 4WD button, the transfer case engages, and all the lights come on on the dash. However, the truck pulls to the right and makes a very loud grinding sound (especially at speeds of 30 mph), coming from the front of the truck.
I went to a junkyard and got a set of hubs from a 93 Explorer. They looked basically the same (except that my 94s had some notches in the cam where it seats against the rotor), and they fit onto the truck.
I took it for a ride and the 4WD seemed to engage and disengage OK. Then, I took it for the 30 mph test, and it's behaving the same as before, and now the hubs are harder to get out of 4WD.
Should I suck it up and replace the hubs with new ones, or is my problem elsewhere, such as the U-joints. How do I test to see if those are bad?
I went to a junkyard and got a set of hubs from a 93 Explorer. They looked basically the same (except that my 94s had some notches in the cam where it seats against the rotor), and they fit onto the truck.
I took it for a ride and the 4WD seemed to engage and disengage OK. Then, I took it for the 30 mph test, and it's behaving the same as before, and now the hubs are harder to get out of 4WD.
Should I suck it up and replace the hubs with new ones, or is my problem elsewhere, such as the U-joints. How do I test to see if those are bad?
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
If it were me, yes, replace the hubs with new ones. They are not an uncommon problem, and it's easy to envision that you got a bad one or two from the junkyard. Unless you really feel a need to stick with auto hubs, you can replace both hubs with manual hubs (including conversion hardware kit) for the same price as one auto hub.
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Thanks. The junkyard hubs looked much better than my old ones. There were three very obvious triangles sticking out of the hubs and the plastic cams, mine were worn down. So, I think the junkyard hubs are OK. And, I'm already in for $100...
I also saw on this forum (somewhere) that I may need to take the hubs off again to take them apart and clean them. How do they come apart once they're off the truck, and what should I clean them with? Would brake cleaner work, or would that break down the ATF that I will need to put in there before I reinstall?
Also, back to my original question, how do you test to see if the U-joints are bad?
And, how many U-joints are there? I've seen posts on this forum that say anywhere from three to five. My logic would say one on either end of each drive shaft, which would be six (two for each axle and two for the front driveshaft), but that's a wild guess.
Finding my Haynes manual might help...
Mike
I also saw on this forum (somewhere) that I may need to take the hubs off again to take them apart and clean them. How do they come apart once they're off the truck, and what should I clean them with? Would brake cleaner work, or would that break down the ATF that I will need to put in there before I reinstall?
Also, back to my original question, how do you test to see if the U-joints are bad?
And, how many U-joints are there? I've seen posts on this forum that say anywhere from three to five. My logic would say one on either end of each drive shaft, which would be six (two for each axle and two for the front driveshaft), but that's a wild guess.
Finding my Haynes manual might help...
Mike
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From: UT
Depending on how you count the double cardan joint at the t-case end of the front driveshaft, there are 5 or 6: 2/3 on the driveshaft, 1 on the driver's side axleshaft at the wheel (don't need one at the differential because the differential is mounted to the driver's side traction beam), and 2 on the passenger axle shaft (one at the the wheel and one on the stub shaft). Usual check for u-joints involves checking for movement of the joint within the bearing caps.
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OK, thanks. I think I can rule out the U-joints on the front drive shaft, since I do get movement in the front, but it pulls to one side.
First, I'm going to clean those hubs. How do the hubs come apart for cleaning, and what can I use (brake cleaner)?
While the hubs are off (again), I'll check the U-joints. Please give a little more detail here. I spoke with the Ford Parts guy, and he said remove the brake rotors and check the spindle for play (to make sure it's not frozen). Is that really all there is to it?
How do you replace the U-joints? Can it be done with common tools, or are there special tools to take things apart (other than the big hub nut socket)?
Let's assume I replace the front axle U-joints (three), and the hubs are good (lubed, not worn, etc.). If I continue to have a problem, would that be a bad differential?
What about other parts, like spindle bearings, etc? How do I know if that's my problem, or are those only related to handling, steering, etc?
Mike
First, I'm going to clean those hubs. How do the hubs come apart for cleaning, and what can I use (brake cleaner)?
While the hubs are off (again), I'll check the U-joints. Please give a little more detail here. I spoke with the Ford Parts guy, and he said remove the brake rotors and check the spindle for play (to make sure it's not frozen). Is that really all there is to it?
How do you replace the U-joints? Can it be done with common tools, or are there special tools to take things apart (other than the big hub nut socket)?
Let's assume I replace the front axle U-joints (three), and the hubs are good (lubed, not worn, etc.). If I continue to have a problem, would that be a bad differential?
What about other parts, like spindle bearings, etc? How do I know if that's my problem, or are those only related to handling, steering, etc?
Mike
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: North East
I am currently having the exact same problem with my wife's 92 explorer. I replaced the hubs with brand new WARN manual lockers. Let me just tell you. I was less than happy when the new hubs did not fix the problem.
Tomorrow I will be working on the U joints. A friend who is a life long Mechanic told me to do the following. Lock the hub in, and spin the wheel. Does it spin freely? Yes? Turn the wheel completely to on side. Spin the wheel. Does it spin freely? No? Binds then lets go? U Joints. It made no sence to me, but after doing this test, I could see why the wheels would pull. I will be doing this work as I said tomorrow, and if it fixes the problem, I will update you.
Tomorrow I will be working on the U joints. A friend who is a life long Mechanic told me to do the following. Lock the hub in, and spin the wheel. Does it spin freely? Yes? Turn the wheel completely to on side. Spin the wheel. Does it spin freely? No? Binds then lets go? U Joints. It made no sence to me, but after doing this test, I could see why the wheels would pull. I will be doing this work as I said tomorrow, and if it fixes the problem, I will update you.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: North East
Well, here's the deal. After removing the Drivers side shaft, we found that the U joint was seized completely on one axis. To test your joints, lock the hubs in. Turn the wheel completely to the direction of the side you are working on. Try to spin the tire. It will bind on the side that's shot.
I still have a sway in the vehicle on dry road by about 20 to 25MPH. To stop the flaming, I know you are not supposed to run it on dry road, but it's all I have till I find someone willing to let me drive through their yard.
I still have a sway in the vehicle on dry road by about 20 to 25MPH. To stop the flaming, I know you are not supposed to run it on dry road, but it's all I have till I find someone willing to let me drive through their yard.
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raynist
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Dec 7, 2002 12:31 AM
