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REVIVAL

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Old Nov 12, 2024 | 10:25 PM
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REVIVAL

I bought a 1985 6.9 for 300$ and I've been reading these forums for months and have found very answer I've needed. Now I need help. No matter what I do this thing wont start. At this point I have, replaced the flywheel, clutch, emptied both tanks of 20 yr old fuel, new fuel sending units and shower heads, new fuel return lines, new o rings, new fuel filter, new radiator, oil filter, starter, new batteries, new air filter, new glow plugs, new GP relay, new GP controller, and recently a new ignition actuator. My last step is to replace the IP Shutoff solenoid, which is in the mail and fix the bottlenecked wire to the spade on IP solenoid. When I first turned the key it fired one single time. Not wanting to hurt my new flywheel and starter and I let off the ignition. Nothing since. The previous owner seems to have already gotten rid of the fuel water separator and there is more then enough fuel getting to the injectors ( have not replaced injectors ). Does anyone have any tricks or ideas. I will take a video of the ol gal cranking for more info for yall. This truck is worth it to me, I will not rest until she drives again. (was probably last driven in 1994)
Here she is!

 

Last edited by TruckMonth; Nov 13, 2024 at 01:25 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 04:56 AM
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before i delete this post as spam this afternoon when i get home from work, i will give you the chance to fix it so it reads more than spoiler.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 07:19 AM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Originally Posted by TruckMonth
I bought a 1985 6.9 for 300$ and I've been reading these forums for months and have found very answer I've needed. Now I need help. No matter what I do this thing wont start. At this point I have, replaced the flywheel, clutch, emptied both tanks of 20 yr old fuel, new fuel return lines, new o rings, new fuel filter, new radiator, oil filter, starter, new batteries, new air filter, new glow plugs, new GP relay, new GP controller, and recently a new ignition actuator. My last step is to replace the IP Shutoff solenoid, which is in the mail and fix the bottlenecked wire to the spade on IP solenoid. When I first turned the key it fired one single time. Not wanting to hurt my new flywheel and starter and I let off the ignition. Nothing since. The previous owner seems to have already gotten rid of the fuel water separator and there is more then enough fuel getting to the injectors ( have not replaced injectors ). Does anyone have any tricks or ideas. I will take a video of the ol gal cranking for more info for yall. This truck is worth it to me, I will not rest until she drives again. (was probably last driven in 1994)
Here she is!
Here she is!

You didn't replace the fuel pump? There's no way, that 30 year diaphragm in the fuel pump could be any good. I would bet the IP, injectors and possibly even the hard lines are gummed up for sitting for so long.

You want to be running directly from a 5 gal jug of diesel right now too. You need to eliminate everything you can.
I was about to say, you really want the help of having it plugged in too, but I think the blocks had trouble that year, didn't they, where you shouldn't use a block heater?

That's amazing she fired once. What a steal too! Good for you.

To fix your original post; click edit; click on the "source" button in the row of selections going across the top, just above where you type. Delete this at the start of your post; [ spoiler ]
and the one at the end if you want.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 08:41 AM
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Didnt replace the pump, but I did do the thermostat so I can dig back in there pretty easy. Would you run diesel from a bucket directly before the pump?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 09:11 AM
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Much better. We can read your post now.
first thing I would do is remove the fuel filter and replace it. Disconnect the fuel line from tank to lift pump to prevent contaminating the filter with old fuel.
Get a boat tank, or a 5 gallon can full of fresh diesel and hook it to the lift pump intake.
Fill the new fuel filter with atf and install. Crank the engine over for around 30-45 seconds and stop. Let it sit for 48 hours.
After sitting plug the block heater in for 3-4 hours then try to start it..
If it fires up, let it run for a while, then shut off and do the atf in the filter and start it for 30 seconds, then shut off and let it sit for another 48 hours.
the detergents in the atf break down all the gelled up gunk in the fuel lines,, injectors, and pump so it will pass threw the engine and blow it out the exhaust.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 09:28 AM
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You can also use momma's hair dryer; or better yet, a heat gun aimed into the intake manifold on top of the engine when you have the block heater plugged in. This should help her start.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
Much better. We can read your post now.
first thing I would do is remove the fuel filter and replace it. Disconnect the fuel line from tank to lift pump to prevent contaminating the filter with old fuel.
Get a boat tank, or a 5 gallon can full of fresh diesel and hook it to the lift pump intake.
Fill the new fuel filter with atf and install. Crank the engine over for around 30-45 seconds and stop. Let it sit for 48 hours.
After sitting plug the block heater in for 3-4 hours then try to start it..
If it fires up, let it run for a while, then shut off and do the atf in the filter and start it for 30 seconds, then shut off and let it sit for another 48 hours.
the detergents in the atf break down all the gelled up gunk in the fuel lines,, injectors, and pump so it will pass threw the engine and blow it out the exhaust.
I have ready pulled both tank and replaced sending units and shower heads. I have a new filter installed as well that I filled with atf, there is fresh fuel in both tanks. Still won’t fire…
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 03:52 PM
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Did you bleed the fuel filter? Use a small screwdriver and depress the Schrader valve on the fuel filter housing while a buddy cranks the engine. You should get a solid stream of fuel from the Schrader valve as the engine cranks.

After bleeding the fuel filter you can bleed each injector individually. Have your buddy crank the engine while you loosen each injector nut. I like to do it by the firing order. 12734568
After bleeding the fuel filter and injectors she should fire, or try to start as long as she has compression.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 04:02 PM
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if it sat for 30 years with dead fuel in it my bet is the injectors and injector pump are both gummed up . and flush all fuel lines to make sure you get all the dead fuel out of them.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TruckMonth
Didnt replace the pump
Better check your oil to see if you've been filling the base with diesel. I'd be shocked if your not haha. No way sitting for 30 years can the lift pump not be rotted out. I wouldn't have ever turned her over with that old one still in there. Not even after 5 years sitting and not running, let alone 30. Even if it's not pumping fuel into the base, you can't expect it pump fuel to run the engine. Hopefully you got lucky and it just couldn't pump at all. There's probably nothing in it to even pump anymore actually haha. That's a long time.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
Better check your oil to see if you've been filling the base with diesel.
Thanks for all the responses I really appreciate it. I will replace the fuel pump for sure and try the hair dryer trick as well. The filter is bled and I cracked all the lines while cranking. I blew out my fuel lines when I replaced the fuel sending units. Would any of you use diesel Kleen in the fuel filter to try and clean injectors/IP?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2024 | 03:18 AM
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diesel kleen works, but automatic trans fluid works better. more detergents in the ATF to clean things.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2024 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
No way sitting for 30 years can the lift pump not be rotted
So I installed a new pump, waiting on the solenoid. However I just need to double check that I installed it correctly, I did a bunch of digging and found that the arm on the fuel lifter needs to be under the cam shaft. Just making sure that the lower of the two in this video is the end of the crank shaft and not where the fuel pump arm goes. Pretty confident but not worth doing this wrong!
 
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Old Nov 19, 2024 | 10:57 PM
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Can't help on that, I never looked in.
I stuf the pump arm in the hole with the pump angled top in bottom out. Than push flush to block. This ensures the arm will go under the eccentric.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2024 | 02:51 PM
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Hey yall. I got everything replaced and warmed up, I turned the key and let the glow plugs warm up. My buddy immediately was yelling about smoke so I shut the key off. The wires connected to my temp sensor burned up. I’m worried it has something to do with the way I fixed the wiring to the IP. HELP
Burnt wiring from temp sensor
Burnt wiring from temp sensor
Wiring I fixed on IP
Wiring I fixed on IP
Temp sensor
Temp sensor
 
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