1995 f250 5.8w 4x4 reg cab long box

I recently sent my truck out to get painted, replace two front fenders and hood as well. I got it back, besides being the wrong color, painted over dirt and rust on the frame, mounted mirrors in the wrong spot and more. I’m so unhappy with it I haven’t even posted the final product in my build thread. The CEL is on. I bought an innova code reader and for some reason I can’t get it to communicate with the truck. It starts to for a moment I hear 3 relays quickly then nothing. I can’t seem to get a code on the scanner. I looked at the sticky for getting codes and the link is no longer there.

symptoms. Transmission was shifting quickly into second. And running slightly rough. Held third twice on the interstate before shifting into od a little harsh. Let my girl take it and pulling onto the 55 zone she said it was super boggy and seemed to not be grabbing a gear. She panicked and tried to put it in neutral and said it wasn’t revving up when she hit the throttle. She thought maybe it wasn’t neutral and went one up and thinks she hit reverse and went back down on the column, pulled over and turned it off. Let it sit a second then drove it home. I’m thinking there’s vacuum leaks and I noticed the third light was burnt out. It was just replaced. I put a new one in and it seemed to drive ok, but holds first before shifting and the cel keeps returning.

I know the advice I’ll get back is pull the codes and I’m going to find a paperclip and try shortly a little unsure of the process but hoping I’ll figure it out.

 

https://web.archive.org/web/20120918...tion.com/?p=13

 

Make sure the engine is up to operating temperature before pulling codes.
Between the key on, engine off section, and the key on engine running section, start the truck and hold it at 2000 rpm for two minutes to get everything hot.

Rather then trying to convert the flashes to numbers in real time, just make tally marks on a piece of paper. Each mark is one flash. If there's more than two seconds between flashes, that's a new number.
The codes will repeat after a pause.

 

Keep in mind a 1995 model year F150 will display three digit codes. Same process to count flashes, but the flashout are three digits.

 

After a few times watching the scroll it seems like I have a few. Most of them repeating.
116
636
114
116
636
114
1 substantial pauses before and after the 1
332
452
332
452

mind you the cel never went off before the body shop who has had the truck since June. It’s always been very reliable which I why I even wanted to paint her up. I’m betting the vacuum system just hanging for three months has a lot to do with this.

 

Thank you for the responses. I did not let it warm up. These were from a totally cold engine KOEO results
I saw some responses after I had started counting

 

I would recommend re doing it with the engine warm.

 

Did the body shop paint the inner fenders? If so, you may need to clean the ground connections that are terminated to the fenders and radiator support. Check out posts 6 and 7 at this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-points.html

 

Yes the inner fenders and rad support were painted to match. He got that color the blue reef I wanted then painted the outside color cayman green. I will look at those grounds. That makes a lot of sense. I will also warm her up and take her around the neighborhood and re check the codes

thank you again

 

So I ran it a bit and got some fresh codes.
KOEO
111
332
452
KOER
332
538
536
632
332

the vss code would help explain my transmission shifting and the egr flow the stumbling.

the vss I looked and it’s all hooked up. I saw they added a new jump in the wires running down my frame, possibly vss issue?

the egr tube is at least year old. I replaced that manifold and tube because I had some leakage from manifold and it was easier to replace the tube at that time. Should I look for vacuum leak or maybe sitting in the body shop so long some dust isn’t allowing the thing to move inside? I pulled the vacuum and blew pressure to it and nothing moved. Thinking now vacuum I should have sucked

I also cleaned up all those grounds and that made it seem to run better and take much longer for the cel to come on

 

I don't have experience with automatic transmissions and VSS function related to them.
Codes 538, 536 and 632 are related to actions that need to be taken during the key on engine running test
536 brakes need to be pumped. (After single flash, before active codes)
538 briefly floor accelerator (after single flash, before active codes)
632 cycle OD switch.

EGR, EVP and EVR test procedures are at post 10 at this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ower-loss.html

 

Sorry to hear, that’s frustrating I’m sure.

For the Innova, I would first suspect you had a bad connection, possibly dirty contacts. Give it a cleaning and try again.


The VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) will affect your shifts. If the speedo is off / not getting a good clean ‘signal’, the trans will not know when to shift. Is your speedometer bouncing around / sticking? You mentioned wiring, “they added a jump”. I’d go through that first and see what they did. I’m not sure what you mean by ‘jump’?

EGR. You can pick up a vacuum tool cheap at auto parts store, or Harbor freight. Check your vac lines first. Possible it is stuck from sanding dust getting into the valve too.

Personally, I’d be going over ALL the wiring and vacuum lines. Might be other broken vac lines and wiring not grounded etc, and connectors dirty or not connected completely. I’d go through each one, especially if it was disconnected and sitting open - clean the connections, it’s surprising how little dirst or corrosion can cause a problem.

You also mentioned the ‘third light’. Do you mean the top center cab brake light? If so, make sure you have the correct bulb, it is listed in the owners manual (can’t remember the bulb# off hand). That (LED bulbs) can also affect the transmission shifts.

Mirros? Cant open the vent windows? wrong spot?

EDIT: “super boggy”. I’d check fuel pressures too if you have a fp tester. For no other reason than you’re in there anyway. Check your air filter box too, make sure it’s clean and no rags etc.

 

why would the body shop doing paint work be messing around with wires under the body/frame??

 

The fenders were replaced. On my ‘89 there is a computer ground on the driver’s fender by the hood hinge.

 

Ok so I sorted out grounding issues and found a leak in the vac system that was throwing the egr code. I’m hoping the vss code was from the bad ground. I blew on the line running to the egr and heard hissing on the other side of the intake. First tube I grabbed came apart. Temporarily fixed it till I can run new vac lines with an electrical connector. It worked and is not leaking. At least not enough to throw a code. It’s hillbilly as hell but 80 miles and no cel.



thank you kindly for the suggestions, I also sanded down the new fenders where they painted over where the grounds connect.