So I've changed out my spark plugs, battery, and gas filter yet when the temps get down below freezing (or there abouts) the truck will not start. I do have a block heater installed, which allows the truck to start in the cold.

What can I do if the truck is going to sit for a while and I don't have access to an outlet?

Normally when I start the truck, I'll pump the pedal to prime the engine. 1) Does this actually prime the engine and 2) could it be that I give too much gas then the engine atomize?

If I can't start the truck reliably in the cold without the help of a block heater, I'm going to have to sell it; which I don't want to do. (The truck is my only mode of transport and i rely on it heavily for work).

Cheers.

Brad

 

I confess that my truck does not get too cold in the garage so someone else may have to chime in, but STARTING THE ENGINE instuctions in the owner's manual for my 1964 says "If the engine is cold, depress the accelerator pedal to the floor, pull the CHOKE **** all the way out, and then release the pedal. On six cylinder engines, depress the pedal again approximately 1/4 of full travel and hold it in this position."
I hope this helps. It has always worked for me, but my truck is never really too cold.

 

I've never had problems starting mine in the cold - you might want to consider upgrading the engine electrical system to a DURASPARK system, it'll produce a much better, higher voltage spark than the old coil and should really improve cold starting.

-Aaron

 

bigwall

Although I'm in Florida, that's now. I grew up elsewhere. The reason for "Automatic Chokes" etc is because many folk never mastered cold start techniques. You did not mention just which engine you have, but that's not of much consequence. Except that if it's original, you probably have a manual choke.

You mention you "pump" the accelerator. If you depress it more than 1 time, you are most likely overfueling your intake system. I concur 100% with MCHinsons 'technique from his owner/operator manual.

Everytime an accelerator gets depressed it pumps a load of gas through primary jets directly into intake system. 3 or 4 pumps of accelerator pedal actually forms puddles of raw fuel. It can wet cylinders & plugs, and so forth.

If you use Champion Plugs, I whole heartedly reccommend you discard them. Replace them with something else that works in all situations, including fuel wet conditions.

I prefer Autolites, but other good brands are available. Use correct heat range for your engine. Be certain they're properly gapped and installed. Be sure you have good Spark Plug Wires that do not leak current, or have increased resistence values.

If you're still running points, be sure they are properly cleaned, aligned, gapped & 38 degrees of dwell on a good dwell meter.

Also I discovered highest CCA & Reserve Battery I can fit in my battery tray is what I want to use. I run 950CCA 12V Battery with 750A reserve. Spec for my 460 is 650 CCA, but by using MAX CCA I wear out less starters, alternators, window & seat motors, so forth & etc. {BTW, CCA = Cold Cranking Amps}.

The higher CCA & Reserve Amps, better starting systems work in extreme cold or extreme heat. Also strange as it sounds, starter motor will not heat up as fast with more power than it will with less power, & CCA relates to available power on demand. Either way tho', starter motor should spin & kick engine off, not grind away cranking and cranking engine over & over. Any well tuned, properly started gasoline engine should fire by 4th or 5th revolution.

Then do as MCHinson says. Depress your accelerator 1 time to the boards, while it is depressed pull & set your Manual Choke. I found about 3/4s was usually sufficient even at sub zero temps.
I'd start cranking.

As engine cranks, ease pedal down to about 1/4, or 25% of it's travel, to open the throttle plates & allow more air to compensate for the "choked" condition.

When engine catches & fires up, push the choke in to about 1/2 way, as engine warms push it in more. when temp guage does start to rise, push choke in all the way.

Now if you have an Automatic choke, also depress pedal 1 time & you should hear the auto choke "clink or click" shut, unless of course you are in those howling winds Bozeman sometimes gets from the Arctic Clippers, I couldn't hear my diesel engine start in those winds!

Anyway, once choke "sets" release pedal, start cranking & slowly open throttle plates again by depressing the pedal 1/4 way to floor. With an Auto Choke, the engine vacuum should pull the choke plate open enough to allow the engine to run.

It should be @ high idle. When temp guage begins to rise, blip the throttle & should drop some. when temp is achieve, blip pedal again & it should return to a normal idle speed.

Also I concur 100% with Fordman65. . . .you can't get a better quality spark than Breakerless, or Fully Electronic Ignition makes.
You do not need to go big bucks for Accell or Anything like that. The Blue Band FoMoCo module, an electronic ignition coil, and a "Breakerless Ignition" Distribuitor is all you need for all the spark you'll ever want in the street, or off road. I even Race one of FoMoCos Blue Band Systems with/ OEM Distribuitor & do fine.

Let us know how this works.. . . It should solve your problems.

FBp

 

Hmm, so that is how one uses a choke properly. I've always wondered. My f100 is a 240 inline 6 with manual choke. I'm about to head to work here shortly so I'll start praticing the method even though I've got the block heater running.

The spark plugs have been recently replaced, but I don't remember what I replaced with them with; they are also gapped properly according to the specs in my Chilton book.

Battery was also just replaced. The replacement is smaller size wise then the old one, might that makes any difference?

I'll look into upgrading my electrical system to the duraspark. Would this be something a novice could easy do with enough thinking, questioning, and proper manuals?

Cheers.

Brad

 

If the engine is in good shape and tuned properly it should start OK in cold weather. Points were replaced by electronic ignition for some very good reasons but shouldn't be the major factor. Is the engine a rebuild? Low compression or timing issues may be at fault here, carburetor problems &c. &c.

 

I hate to mention this but if you must... use a starting fluid
But a hotter ignition will help
And if all else fails buy a new carb with an electric choke

 

The choke is your first place to start. Make sure you have it operating properly.
Once it is adjusted, make sure and adjust the cold idle speed. the engine needs rpms in the cold weather and once warm, will idle normally.

 

Well, I think I've mastered the use of the choke for starting in the cold. I tried it earlier today, after work and resorted to using the starter fuild (would it harm the truck to use it a lot?).

Figuring I didn't do it right, after having my truck sit for 3 hours at fire training, I got it on my second try. One really has to ease the gas pedal when cranking, not too much gas and not too little.

Thanks for your help! Though I still think I'll switch out the electrical system sometime soon, as well as install a wiper fuild system, fix the dash lighting, power steering (eventually). I think my next project will be the wiper fuild system, for which there seems to be plenty of info already.

Again, thanks!

Cheers.

Brad

 

If you *need* to use starting fluid all the time, you've got other problems that need to be fixed, in my opinion. I've got a '64 292 in ole blue, and it starts instantly. I live in Iowa, and let me tell you, it gets cold here too.

Starting fluid is probably hard on the engine and can cause problems like "backfiring" through the carburetor. Probably a good way to blow carb power valves that aren't modded, too. If it's *really* cold - like, below zero cold and you keep it outside, it might be good to use ether because you save wear and tear on your starter and battery. But I still think a well tuned, healthy engine shouldn't really need it. Bueller?

 

bigwall,

Most starting fluids are ether based, and besides lowering the internal engine temperatures even more thru rapid evaporation as it gassifies into air, what doesn't "e-vap" fast washes engine oil off cylinder walls & 3 piece oil rings on your pistons.

Engine turns over "DRY". It does not re-lube until it has gained Operating PSI in engine oiling system. I personally avoid using starting fluid on any engine that matters to me. Worst case, but often common, scenario will be very premature engine rebuilding, or replacement, over/in time when starting fluid's used frequently or regularily.

I wholeheartedly concur! If you must use "Starting Fluid" to fire it up frequently, you need to fix the problem causing difficulty with starting it in cold temps, in 1st place. You can do it. . . so go ahead, do it!
FBp

 

WD40 makes a pretty good starting fluid if anyone is ever in a pinch btw.

 

Let me bring up 2 things not mentioned here. Remove the top to your air cleaner and look into the carb, make sure it gives a good squirt when you pump the gas. Also watch your choke, when you pull it out, make sure that it doesn't completely close off the top of the carb. There should be a little gap to allow enough air to get through. If you get this gap right,and get one good squirt in there, you should only have to turn the key to make it fire no matter how cold. It should fire long before 4-5 turns around too, even with points.