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I just acquired a Four Winns 21 foot boat from my brother who recently passed away. The engine is a 302 and has been completely rebuilt with updates. I am in the discovery period of the engine and the components that were installed and will probably post more to ask questions. What I currently know is the engine is a marine Ford 302, GT Aluminum heads, Edelbrock aluminum intake, roller rockers, 030 over flat top pistons, fuel injection with belt driven fuel pump and a type of programmable ECM which the engine cannot run without it. The engine currently has 48 hours on it. The engine was last run 2 years ago and the intake fuel line clamped off to the fuel injection. I assumed this was for winterization. I will be removing all fuel from the fuel tank and replacing it with fresh fuel (non-ethanol). The plan is to change the engine oil and filter, which viscosity oil should I use on this application? Synthetic? and which octane fuel should I use?
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302 is a strong motor BUT with all that alloy i hope it's either fresh water cooled or has never seen salt water to start, all that hot motor add ons and marine use sadly don't mix, as a licensed captain and past coast guard member that boat will not pass a safety check , since automotive parts are not legal for marine use,
the uniformed civilian and all-volunteer branch of the United States Coast Guard. Division 7 which is based in Salt Lake City, Utah, provides Coast Guard services throughout the state of Utah and operates in the vicinity of Salt Lake City and along the Wasatch Front. so the uscg is all over covering all 50 states
I would check the cooling and make sure it's clean and clear.
Are you winterizing it now or wanting to run it?
You can sort out the regulations once you know if you have a runner or a project. I don't know much but fuel system integrity and leak prevention have to be high on the list.
I think there is a huge difference from being stuck in the ocean verse most inland lakes in the USA. Sure, there are some seriously big lakes, but why would you be bringing a 21ft boat in such a large lake?
What would I do if it was mine? I like synthetic and since the boat would be run at higher levels, I would run a synthetic. Matter of fact, my cheap lawn mower runs synthetic. I also like thick oils. Sure, you might get a bit more HP with a thinner oil, but I feel much better with something thicker. I run 10W/60 in all my vehicles. I also do not live in a climate that is freezing. I certainly would never bring any boat to the water at that type of weather. My fishing starts at Safeway or Costco.
Ok, I am curious about what difference that engine oil has, compared to just a regular oil [other than weight].
If that oil had to lubricate the outboard components, I get it, but if it is just the engine, what differences are there?
Yes, I am ignorant about boats so be gentle. No, I don't want to start an argument.
Marine oil is different.
Mercury/Quicksilver 2 stroke oil is different, and is the best in my opinion.Castrol is comparable.
Mercury/Quikcilver 4-stroke oil, marine engines are meant to be run at a constant 4-6,000rpm all day long, working hard and greater chance of getting moisture in the oil vs an automotive engine.
So, the Mercury/Quicksilver 4 stroke oil is of better quality for running engines hard and hot for long periods of time, and can handle some moisture better than automotive oil.
The life of a marine engine is very dependent on quality oil, specifically the manufactures oil.
I remember working at a marine shop, and boats engines would get oil changed twice a year. Once during winterizing, a second time after winter in spring, good for all seasons.
I figured that marine engines would be pushed harder for a longer time than any vehicle engine. I did not know the testing was that stringent. I would also think if the oil is at operating temperature, there would be little water in it. There are plenty of my clients that do not drive their cars long enough to 'burn out' the water in the oil.