I’m going to pull an engine for the first time, and would like to have a clear plan. Here’s a proposed sequence from a few sources. Let me know your thoughts. Amendments and suggestions welcome.

Tools

• Buddy for hood
• Moving blankets
• Masking tape
• Sharpie
• Camera phone
• Fender protectors of some sort
• Goggles, glasses
• Bucket to drain radiator
• Penetrating oil
• Study wire (hanging parts like exhaust, bell)
• Study wooden dowel long enough to bridge engine bay (oak)
• Remote started to bump engine
• 12" 3/8 socket extension
• Engine hoist
• Extra engine stand
• Degreaser, engine cleaner (x2)

Engine Removal Process

• Back truck out of garage to a place where it can be easily rolled back in
• Engine in neutral, tires blocked, brake on
• Hand turn engine to TDC (put new engine on TDC, as well)
• Open hood and take a lot of picture, top, bottom, left and right, up close. Alot.
• Disconnect coil to distributor lead
• Trace hood hinge locations with pencil
• Remove hood light connection, hood grounding straps
• Remove hood with help from buddy (front hinge bolts then back)
• Place hood somewhere (roof of truck, bed of truck, saw horses out back), use moving blankets to protect hood
• Drain radiator
• Unbolt fan shroud and place over fan blades
• Cut carboard size of radiator and tape to inside face to protect fins, tape it in place
• Remove radiator
• Remove fan shroud
• Remove fan and fan clutch (store face down)
• Air cleaner
• Throttle linkage, tie up and out of the way
• Cruise linkage
• Kick-down linkage
• Label wires, hoses, etc on both sides for easier reassembly
• Disconnect wiring harness leads (oil pressure S/i, water temp, coil, distributor, A/C clutch, cruise)
• Disconnect emissions hoses
• Disconnect vacuum hoses (label!)
• Remove wiring harness
• Remove cruise control unit, tie up and out of the way
• Disconnect heater hoses (replace?)
• Loosen belts and remove (A/C, alternator, water pump, air pump)
• Crank pulley
• Water pump pulley
• Power steering bracket and pump, leaving hoses attached, keep pump right side up, and tie up and aside
• Remove A/C upper support bracket (by idler pulley)
• Remove lower A/C and unbolt A/C compressor, leaving hoses attached, tie up and out of the way
• Maybe remove A/C?
  • Remove A/C service valve caps, rotate high and low pressure service valve CCW to close/isolate charge
  • Loosen gage-port cap a small amount to release pressure, emphasize small amount
  • Remove hoses by disconnecting service valve from the compressor to keep them with hoses
• Air pump hose and bypass valve
• Air pump bracket and pump
• ATF filler tube
• All grounding straps (left rear, right rear top)
• Fuel tank to fuel pump line, plug with 3/8 bolt and shank, or clamp it
• Exhaust manifold to exhaust bolts, so rusted
• Engine mount bolts on block and through bolt nut, from below?
• Check transmission cooling lines, unclipped and disconnected
• Remove inspection plate, set aside with bolts
• Reconnect battery and setup the remote starter
• Bump engine to expose converter to flex plate nuts, remove each (how many?)
• Disconnect and remove battery
• Unbolt starter (bottom bolt first), disengage, leave hanging in place with wire or remove
• Bell-housing to block bolts
• Alternator leads, starter lead, starter solenoid leads
• Alternator bracket and alternator
• Carburetor, tape intake for good measure
• Distributor, cap and plug wires, tape hole
• Double check for connected parts missed, there's bound to be something
• Place jack gently under transmission to support
• Tie wire around exhaust pipe to support once disconnected
• Connect hoist and leveller
• Bolt hoist leveller to intake (not using head locations unless spreader available)
• Raise engine a little, move it forward a little, wiggle to disengage engine from transmission
• Once free from trans, hoist engine out
• Place engine on stand or spare tire for now, out the way
• Mark stud a the bottom of the converter and the matching bottom hole on the flex plate (no, TDC procedure up top should align right?)
• Tie wire through top bell holes to support transmission using wooden dowel rod across engine bay
• Remove jack under transmission
• Esure hanging parts (A/C, cruise, exhaust and transmission) are secured
• Ensure all loose parts are bagged and tagged
• Clean engine bay with degreaser while outside, spray down and dry
• Mount removed engine on spare stand, drain oil, spray down to clean and eventually be ready for tear down
• Push truck back into garage back to await engine bay clean up
• Dispose fluids

 

Pretty comprehensive list. I did this myself about a year ago.
I actually took the entire front clip off for my engine removal. It's only 12 or 14 bolts to remove. The hardest to remove were the radiator core support bolts. I cut these w/ a sawzall since they were seized.
With the front clip out of the way, its super easy to get to everything else.
I can't recall for sure how many TC to flex plate bolts there are. I think maybe 4.
Don't forget to remove the lower 2 short bolts between the bellhousing and the flex plate.
Basically remove all wiring or tubing that might be connected to the block (temp sender wires, pressure sender wires, throttle linkage, vacuum lines, etc).
Good luck

 

The front clip removal keeps you from having to raise engine to dangerous heights over radiator support. Just mark around the bolt on bits. Hidden bolt on the fender to cowl. Either way you go get a 4 wheel cherry picker. I don't even know if they make the 3 wheel anymore. Same with engine stand. Good luck.

 

Disconnect and remove battery and protect posts from any possible contact while away.

I like to scribe hood hinge locations, can be clear coated later.

 

So the consensus is to remove the front clip? I’m sure Rich will come in with the same point. Can I use a pair of cross members and some saw horses to keep it off the fenders?

 

I just balanced it on it's nose in the corner of my workspace. Rad core support bolts have the nut on top and the bolt coming in from the bottom. Try to get a large breaker bar and extensions from above. If you can't break it loose (PB blaster), then you think about cutting it through the mount bushings from below...pain in the a$$, ask me how I know.

 

I would remove torque converter nuts (4) before removing radiator ATF lines. If you bump it over it may squirt ATF out of the lines unless you cap them.
I always do the underneath stuff first. bellhousing bolts , exhaust flanges, motor mounts, torque converter nuts, then starter.
That way you are not working in antifreeze or other fluids that might have spilled.
Then move to top of engine.

 

Support under transmission if you separate in vehicle. I prefer to pull as a single unit after tc nuts are out.

 

Pull the front clip, yank the engine/trans assembly as a unit.

 

Pull the hood, pull the radiator, remove the convertor bolts, drain the oil and just start removing everything connected to the engine. it doesn't matter what order it's all got to come off.

I never remove the front clip, it's not worth the time to me. 1/2 day project to have it out if you're experience, maybe a day if you're not.

 

Well you know me for sure...X1000 pull the front clip, just 14 bolts. There are 2 versions below because I kept remembering steps.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14982711

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696880

Of course nice trucks do not get the hood on the roof, but I pulled it by MYSELF and got it flipped up there.





FYI the core support bolts can be a PITA. Be ready to sawzall and replace them and the bushings.


D3TZ-1000155-B.. Absorber (rubber cushion) - Lowerradiator support and lowerfront & rear cab mounts / Obsolete
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NO NO NO, but some guys like a challenge.

 

I was jamming on that boom box on the 5 gal bucket, so you know it was a few years ago. LOL

FTE member Manual Transmission install tip-8" long grade 8 bolts with the heads cut off to make guide studs. These make installing the transmission a whole lot easier, and since I was doing everything by hand, easier was always better. These bolts have been put in their own box and labeled for future use. Use a hack saw to cut flat tip screwdriver slots in the ends, use a grinder to round the ends a little after cutting off the heads.

FTE member Trans tip 2- When installing a flywheel and torquing the bolts, you need to prevent the crankshaft from turning. I used a piece of 1/2" aluminum U-channel which I cut to length and slipped between two of the ring gear teeth. I then wedged it against the bottom inside corner of the frame at about a 60 degree angle. The aluminum is softer than the iron teeth, so any damage will occur to it long before the teeth, and it will actually conform itself to the iron teeth if enough pressure is applied. The U-channel also fits perfectly over the outside edge of an FE flywheel, so it will not slip off!
To actually install the transmission itself, I slid it under the truck on a piece of cardboard, then used two pieces of 2" round hardwood stock laid across the transmission tunnel as "hands"...I tied two pieces of rope under the front and rear of the trans, then ran them over the stock, then back down to me. This way I could pull down and push up from underneath, while having the option of tying off the rope to the frame to hold the trans suspended while I repositioned."

If you are pulling/dropping the trans, save your fingers and rent a trans jack.

 

I wouldn't ever try it with the transmission installed if the clip is in place. either way works, but the dealers didn't remove it either.

 

I must be a one man wrecking show....pulled the engine out and sitting on the shop floor in less than 4 hrs. ..by myself....didn't pull the front clip....removed the hood too. I find it way easier to tear ***** apart. Maybe thAts just me.
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So I’m staring at this engine with factory air thinking to myself that pulling the front clip is the high road. Maybe that’s what 440Sixpack was referring to. I think I’m going to leave the front clip. Seems to be the path of least resistance - at least until I try to lift the engine out.