When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Find a shop manual, those AC hoses can isolate the components in the engine compartment. The quick coupler at radiator support is self-sealing. The most freon lose you should have will be the compressor and that can be charged separately. Engine removal is in the Ford factory shop manual. Try to find a set for your year truck on @bay.
The front clip removal keeps you from having to raise engine to dangerous heights over radiator support. Just mark around the bolt on bits. Hidden bolt on the fender to cowl. Either way you go get a 4 wheel cherry picker. I don't even know if they make the 3 wheel anymore. Same with engine stand. Good luck.
2X on removing the clip. As well, detach headers or exhaust manifold plus some pipe if you can't separate them as they will get hung up on the motor mount brackets. Alternatively, remove the motor mount brackets. This will allow engine and trans to be removed in a perfectly level state. You'll still want to place a slip joint or plastic replica on end of trans to avoid ATF mess.
Just take your compressor and pull it to the side, hold it with a bunge or something. done it many it times works fine .
I disconnect the exhaust manifold from the pipe and pull all the bolts. sometimes you can slip the manifold out sometimes you just leave it off to the side. this way it'll never impede the engine removal.
I'm with 79150, either pulling the engine without removing sheet metal isn't that hard or I must be amazing.