I am replacing my old 300 I-6 for another due to the fact that i blew a rod out the side of the block. Does anyone have good reference materials for relpacing the engine?

Thanks

 

Man whats with everybody haveing push rods shooting out thier blocks....kinda has me worried.

What engine you wana replace it with?

 

Service and Repair

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system and engine oil.
Mark hood hinge locations for reference during assembly, then remove hood.
Remove throttle body inlet tubes.
NOTE: On models equipped with A/C, remove A/C compressor and condenser.

Relieve fuel system pressure as outlined under Fuel Delivery Air Induction/
Service And Repair/ Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure.
Disconnect heater hose from water pump and coolant outlet housing.
Disconnect flexible fuel line from fuel pump, then remove radiator.
Remove cooling fan, viscous fan drive (if equipped), water pump pulley and fan
drive belt. The fan clutch/water pump hub has a righthand thread.
Disconnect accelerator cable from throttle body and remove cable retracting
spring.
Disconnect vacuum line from intake manifold.
Disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust pipe.
Label, then disconnect all EFI electrical connectors and vacuum lines that
will interfere with engine removal.
Disconnect battery ground cable and body ground strap from engine.
Disconnect electronic engine control harness from all sensors.
Disconnect engine wiring harness from ignition coil and the coolant
temperature and oil pressure sending units, and position harness aside.
Disconnect alternator from mounting bracket and position aside, leaving wires
attached.
Disconnect steering pump from mounting bracket and position aside, leaving
lines attached.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove starter motor, and on models equipped with automatic transmission, the
fluid filler tube bracket.
Remove engine rear plate upper right bolt.
On models equipped with manual transmission, remove all flywheel housing
lower attaching bolts and disconnect clutch retracting spring.
On models equipped with automatic transmission, remove converter housing
access cover, then the flywheel-to-converter nuts, and secure converter in
housing. Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from retaining clip on
engine, then remove converter housing-to-engine lower attaching bolts.
Remove insulator to intermediate support bracket attaching nut from each
engine front support.
Lower vehicle and support transmission using a suitable jack.
Remove remaining flywheel or converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
Raise engine slightly, using suitable lifting equipment, and carefully
separate from transmission, then lift engine from vehicle.
Reverse procedure to install. Tighten engine to transmission bolts to 40-50 ft
lb

 

i was thinking an exact replacement. the 300 i-6. but i was talking to my shop instructor who suggest finding a 302 or even a 351 cause they are more common than 300. but would a 302 or 351 bolt up to a C6 3 spd auto transmission? I would like to convert to a EFI if easily possible. or a bigger carb to get better mileage.

thanks for the list of operation farofftrack

 

302 and 351w will "bolt up" to your transmission but there are other bugs to work out. The fly wheels are different, so you have to be sure you get the right one to match your motor to that tranny. Also, your motor mount locations will move, so there may be some cutting and welding involved. The stock radiator for the I-6 is typically a sinle core unit, you'll need a bigger one for the V-8. Not to mention the little stuff, wiring, vacuum hose routing, linkages for throttle and such. It's going to be a lot more work than a straight engine swap.

The EFI would be a hard swap too, starting with changing the gas tank and running all metal fuel line from there to the engine, and getting more complex when you get into wiring and bringing the beast to life. You would have to have an EFI engine too, you can't simply bolt a stock EFI system onto the older 4.9L engines, there are differences. I would suggest a carb upgrade instead, I've done too different upgrades and both were a great improvent. The easiest is to buy an aftermarket adapter plate and put a 2bbl carb on your existing intake. There are some minor linkage adjustments you'll have to make but it's an easy job and not to expensive either. You can also get a 4bbl offy intake and put a small 4bbl carb on it. You sacrifice a little more mpg with the 4bbl but you do gain a bit a more power than with the 2bbl upgrade. You'll probably never get that six to smoke out a set of tires like a 351w would when it gets wound up... but it will make a heck of a stout engine. I've got one in my bronco with the 2bbl carb on it, 4" lift and 35X12.50's and it's all the motor I need. Just depends on what your wanting when your done I guess.

 

i just need a good solid engine that isn't a slow poke on the highway and has the power when i need to haul a ton of gravel (i've hauled that much before with the last engine) a priority though is to get above 11mpg. i was getting about 6 maybe with the last engine. thats why i was thinking EFI.

 

Where do you live? I have a 1986 F150 im trying to sell it has a 302 EFI that runs good but the trans is shot. The body is rusted but the motor could easly be swapped to your truck. Let me know i live in the Chicago area.

 

O yeah $500.00 bucks


Boing Boing Boing

 

well i live in the portland area. camas washington to be exact. that might be a hefty shipping cost. plus i dont know if you can ship and engine. maybe if all fluids where drained.

 

i've got an 84 f-150 4x4 w/ the 300 and a t-18 4 spd behind it w/ 3:55's and it runs down the highway at 75 if i want it to, with no problem other than the truck and entire outfit are 20 yrs old...i love the 300-6...if mine went right now, i've got a spare 300 i paid 100 bucks for that i could do a little work to and have running probably in a weekend or so...

MontanaFord

 

i have no beefs with the 300-6's. the idea of a v8 is so inticing. but i think i have to stick to what i can handle and that is a 300-6. so if anyone has one and lives kinda close to the portland area, let me know.

 

You should get better than 11mpg, at least unloaded. Perhaps towing a heavy load 6mpg. Whadda ya mean, 8 cyl more common? OK, maybe talked about more. But Ford put a pile of 240/300 engine in trucks for 31 years (65-96). If you want a reliable decent smooth engine, consider keeping a I6. Yes, a V8 will produce more power -- but at higher RPM. If you like reving the engine, making noise, sounding like a V8 etc. -- well get a V8. If you like reliable, strong at low RPM, then go I6

Just my $.02

 

Check out http://fordsix.com/

Tons of re-build and performance info in their 240/300 forum. They even had some info about the EFI swap you asked about, check it out.

 

thanks for the site. im wanting to get a 2 bbl carb. what brand and where to get one are suggested?

 

i have made a little site to document my progress. <a href="http://83ford150.blogspot.com">this is the link to it</a>