When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
45K miles on them all accross the US. Certainly rough roads but good ones too. I suspect the springs were up to the task but over time it took its toll.
I probably should do the other side.
One thing to note is the is the kitchen slide up above those wheels, maybe have something do with it too.
45K miles on them all accross the US. Certainly rough roads but good ones too. I suspect the springs were up to the task but over time it took its toll.
I probably should do the other side.
One thing to note is the is the kitchen slide up above those wheels, maybe have something do with it too.
I look at the springs under the Cameo and wouldn't surprise me to find a broken one with the pounding these take on our fine American roadways and off roading it goes on. So far so good but know now where to get replacement packs. Personally would of done both at the same time. Thanks for the heads up of sourcing them.
My local trailer repair/sales facility had spring upgrades for my old trailer. Also the exact Dexter brake assemblies I wanted. Better prices than I could find online (when taking into account shipping costs). Parker Trailer in Parker, Colorado.
I am surprised my trailers springs haven't broken. I-39 is one rough SOB, that broke my rear refrigerator. It became airborne, broke nearly every plastic bin and bent the heavy gauge metal shelf it was on. Surprised it still works after that trip. I did replace the bolts with a wet bolt kit and swapped the ( mind fart) metal piece between springs with a cushioned one. That probably helped a little bit.
Replacing mine is on the winter "to do" list. My model camper has a history of flattening out the springs then eventually breaking due to them using leaf springs that were slightly undersized. I plan to upgrade to a heavier leaf spring to resolve that.
Did you have to jack the entire camper up, or just the tire where you were replacing the spring?
When I took the spring shackles out to lubricate the bolts and bushings, I lifted the left side and took everything apart. When I got done on the left side, I went ahead and did the right. Assuming you got a dual axle, you need to unload the tension on the springs so both axles would have to be unloaded.
If you can raise the entire trailer at the same time, I suspect that would be easier.
Replacing mine is on the winter "to do" list. My model camper has a history of flattening out the springs then eventually breaking due to them using leaf springs that were slightly undersized. I plan to upgrade to a heavier leaf spring to resolve that.
Did you have to jack the entire camper up, or just the tire where you were replacing the spring?
I used the leveler and dropped the rear jacks. Then used a jack as needed to take the pressure off the springs.
To put them back on, I put the front bolt in, then jacked up the equalizer to bring the rear spring in line with the holes to retain it.
Ubolts were pretty straight forward with tighening in sequence to draw it up. Then I place a jack under it for the final tighening. About an hour job once you have done it
When I took the spring shackles out to lubricate the bolts and bushings, I lifted the left side and took everything apart. When I got done on the left side, I went ahead and did the right. Assuming you got a dual axle, you need to unload the tension on the springs so both axles would have to be unloaded.
If you can raise the entire trailer at the same time, I suspect that would be easier.
I had planned on raising the entire camper at the same time, however if you were able to do it one tire at a time or even one side at a time I thought that may be a bit easier as you're only raising one side at a time.
If you are going to use the lever jacks, you might want to consult the manual. I believe that is not recommended. Do as you wish, but at least be informed on whatever your decision is.
If you are going to use the lever jacks, you might want to consult the manual. I believe that is not recommended. Do as you wish, but at least be informed on whatever your decision is.
Yeah mine is a pull behind, my levelers aren't rated for lifting my camper, however I have a couple jack stands I planned to use to get tires off the ground. Could grab a couple others from my dad but if I can get by doing one side at a time I can just use what I have.
Down force jacks can carry the weight of the RV, Scissors type and side load jacks don't, those are the ones not recommended for lifting the trailer. I can tell you though, there is a reason NOT to use them to lift the trailer. Slopes! Once that tire leaves the ground, there is nothing to keep the jacks from twisting, at least on the ground there should be a wheel chock or two to prevent movement, but once that tire leaves the ground, the chock wont do a damned thing and the trailer can move downhill and twist right off.
I lifted the entire trailer using jack stands on the frame. Yeah, no floor jack, bottle jack, etc. Lowered the tongue down as far as reasonable, placed jack stands under the frame behind the rear axle, raised the tongue high enough to make contact with the jack stands and provide clearance for another set of jack stands under the frame in front of the bumper.
I put a bottle jack under the axle, only to take the weight off of the shackle bolts to make them easier to remove/install.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.