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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 09:53 AM
  #1  
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Water pump bolts

I have been chasing a small coolant leak on my IH branded WP, installed back in April. The leak presents more as staining on the underside area of the pump. I have ruled out hose connections. I believe I torqued these to 18 ft-lbs (or whatever the available literature recommended).

I didn't know this at the time, but I re-used the bolts instead of putting new ones in. I recently read (on here I am sure) that new bolts should be used. I have never swapped out the bolts on a pump replacement (at least 8 on F-series trucks) and have never had leaking that I couldn't sort out. I didn't think the torque on those bolts was at such a level that bolt stretch was a possibility.

So is leaking because of old bolts a thing? Also, if I swapped out 1 bolt at a time, would this solve the prob, instead of draining the system/breaking the seal?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 10:03 AM
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I recently replaced my waterpump and reused the old bolts. No issues whatsoever.

I’d be more inclined to think it’s the o-ring seal than the bolts.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 11:22 AM
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It's the o ring seal. But first, recheck the bolts. If they are good'n'tight then pull the pump and inspect that seal. I have had bolts back out. But that's because I forgot to snug up one or two and never realized it because I was tired of wrangling that fan and probably forgot.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 12:43 PM
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I did NOT buy new bolts....
what Idiot thinks that 18 ft/lbs is over torquing that bolt?

my truck does not have any coolant leaks, I bought a Gates Water pump, and it is working just fine.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by John in OkieLand
what Idiot thinks that 18 ft/lbs is over torquing that bolt?
I think he said that was the torque value the manual called for, not that it was over torqued. Being as it's threaded into the aluminum front cover I'd go by the printed torque value for sure there
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Wes444
I think he said that was the torque value the manual called for, not that it was over torqued. Being as it's threaded into the aluminum front cover I'd go by the printed torque value for sure there
I agree to not over torque the bolt, as it threads into aluminum.

what I disagree with, is that the bolt itself stretches with only 18 ft/lbs of torque on it.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 04:42 PM
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To add some more details...2x times since April I have checked the torque on the bolts in the quest to solve this minor leak. Both times some of the bolts were less than what I set them at (which is the 18 ft lbs looking back at my notes). Never more than 1fp off. Now 1/2 to 1 foot pound on 18 is a 3-6% error, so within the accuracy of the torque wrench. But suspect in that they are always less. I don't believe for a minute that 18fp is going to stretch a bolt, but now I'm wondering if they had been over torqued before I took ownership, though were not overly tight as I recall. Although a stretched bolt will loosen up over time, especially under a cyclic load.

As far as the gasket - it is possible of course. Either way, I guess I'm in the position of having to pull the pump to replace the gasket and bolts.

Maybe the takeaway is that one should plan on replacing critical bolting hardware if they aren't sure of the history.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 07:05 PM
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I reused my bolts also. Did your gasket have the nubs to hold it in place? If not, could have moved and gotten pinched.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2024 | 09:00 AM
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Might just need to hit them with a re-torque. The gasket will compress and settle a little leave you a little loose. I’ve never had an issue reusing the hardware and I’ve done the water pump 3 times since I’ve owned mine.

good idea to let it sit for a spell after the initial torque sequence and hit them again before proceeding.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2024 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshHefnerX
I reused my bolts also. Did your gasket have the nubs to hold it in place? If not, could have moved and gotten pinched.
Yes on the nubs. Although it took awhile to get it to fit in, once it did, it looked and felt good.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2024 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandonpdx
Might just need to hit them with a re-torque.
The bolts have been loosened and re-tightened 2 times since install. I'll give the first re-tighten to the initial gasket compression thing, but it didn't solve the prob. The second time? I do not believe it is a compression thing at that point.

In both cases, the bolts that do loosen are not to a large degree: +/- 1/2 foot pound.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2024 | 10:55 PM
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I'm gonna go back and revise my statement from earlier. After going through my orders I DID get new bolts. And used a Gates water pump.

This guy isn't always liked around here at times, but I used his procedure for torquing. And reasoning for the new bolts.

I used riff-raff for the bolts.


 
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Old Oct 8, 2024 | 01:03 AM
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As I recall all the bolts are dry, outside the o-ring on the 7.3 WP, a photo on Riffraff's site confirmed this, so your issues is not with the bolts. Buy a new o-ring and replace it. That is my .02 for what it is worth.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2024 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by pvdiag
The bolts have been loosened and re-tightened 2 times since install. I'll give the first re-tighten to the initial gasket compression thing, but it didn't solve the prob. The second time? I do not believe it is a compression thing at that point.

In both cases, the bolts that do loosen are not to a large degree: +/- 1/2 foot pound.
its a situation where the factory torque spec might be fine for new hardware and front cover holes to seal it up, but with wear it leaves them a little loose. Maybe give them a “feel” with a 3/8” ratchet and you’ll probably find they need a little more. Maybe 20-22 ft/lbs. I had a situation like that with the two big turbo bolts that hold it to the pedestal and have had it also with the brake caliper banjo bolts. Dialed in the exact book spec and it leaked. Threaded hardware can have tolerance discrepancies. Sometimes a book spec will be too much or not enough especially on small hardware.
 
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