for a 2004+ 6.0 super duty crew cab short bed dually : Is the cost of the CCV filter ($550+) worth while? I tow a 4500 lb trailer and up to three 1000 lb horses at altitude between 3k and 6k in Central Oregon. (Hot.dry or Snow bound to -20)


You Guys have been a lifesaver for me in the past. I appreciate it.

Zeke Central Oregon

 

I'm also debating a CCV filter and would like honest objective feedback on if it provides any real benefit or fixes any real problems. It sure 'feels good' to not route crankcase gasses into the turbo inlet, but did the International engineers only do this to reduce emissions slightly?

Some very reputable folks on here have done it. On the other hand, here is at least one person saying its all just hype.

 

I have run my ccv filter for over 14 years. It does not cause any problems. It essentially eliminated oil in the CAC tubes and in the Charge Air Cooler. Boots stay on better. Now-days, you can buy boots that are far more oil resistant than the ones that came with the truck, so there are several ways to better keep boots from popping off. Also, oil in the CAC can increase the restriction of air flow a bit (and reduce heat exchange). Not a lot, but I prefer not to have that happen. How much does it help?? ......... who knows! Lastly, there are certain mineral additives (Sodium, Potassium, etc) in the oil that just didn't need to be in the combustion process (flow path). I just did not want "liquid oil" going through the turbo and through the combustion process (and yes, some people add ashless 2 stroke oil to the fuel as an additive to improve lubricity - that oil is different than our engine oil).

Bill didn't exactly know what he was talking about on this.

What he should have said was that IF a CCV re-route system is installed, it should not be so small that it increases the crankcase pressure. There are specifications as to what the maximum pressure should be, and a tool designed for the measurement.

If you do end up installing a CCV re-route system, our trucks do need a good sized one, and it isn't cheap. Is it worth the expense? ......... again, who knows!

If you are on the fence, or looking for concrete improvements in one area or another, then don't do it. I am happy with mine, but then I wasn't expecting anything measurable to happen (except I can measure how much oil I remove from the filter every few months).

 

I went the opposite direction Mark did. I only refill the crankcase with 13qts of oil instead of the 15qts printed on the spec sheet. I didn't just randomly decide on that, I spent some time looking at the dip stick and came to the conclusion that's what my level should be. For some reason doing that also dried up a significant amount of the oil in my CAC tubes, so I never felt the need for a CCV reroute.

I only do this in the F250, and always run 5000 miles OCIs. I don't think 2 quarts out of 18 capacity /16 actual is really making a big difference in terms of oil life, the 5k OCI is already 1/3rd shorter than the book interval anyways. I switched to Riff Raff boots way way back to replace the factory oil absorbers and don't have any problems with them coming off. Brake cleaner, hairspray, done.

Nothing wrong with doing it if you want to. Back in the day some guys extended the line and just let it dump further back off the truck even.

 

I hear you - several ways to skin the cats. That said, I really don't like the thought of a system that might dump oil onto the streets/highways.

 

I always ran slightly under the spec in oil volume. But for me, the need for filtering out the oil so it's not going through the intake system is this: With 75k on this dealer-installed engine, this is what the valves facing the intake port looked like, packed with carbon adhered to the oil until it wasn't. The broken-off carbon clumps caused pitting of the exhaust valves when captured between the valve and seat when closing, which are stainless and softer than the hardened seats. So I'd prefer to eliminate that in the future.

Intake Valve



Exhaust valve

 

What level do you run on the dipstick? My 06 commonized engine (yellow dipstick) appears to take less than my old 05 (black dipstick). I usually end up around 13qts when putting to the upper half of the dipstick. On the 05 I seem to recall 15qts to make it full.

Maybe Ford changed the dipstick length on the commonized engines or is my memory starting to fail?

 

My commonized 2006 takes 14 quarts to full, but I run 13.5 so that I know if the level is starting to rise (fuel).

 

My apologies for somewhat hi-jacking the OP's thread. Please forgive me ZekeD.

I would like to do this, but I don't want to vent to atmosphere or dump oil anywhere it doesn't belong. Therefore, I'm open to going the more expensive route with a catch-can and re-route to the turbo inlet. However, what is the purpose of the CCV tube protruding almost half-way up into the inlet tube? That looks like it would unnecessarily restrict and create turbulent airflow. Furthermore, the opening is on the ram air side, which wouldn't help as much with the vacuum action to suck fumes out of the crank case. Has anybody ever just chopped that bugger off flush?

 

It creates a Venturi effect that help pull the exhaust gases into the intake from the crank case. It’s a bit of a push/ pull system. I did a pretty cheap CCV reroute with a catch can. I was mainly concerned with oil in the intercooler and sludge built up in the intake.

 

'Cause maybe with the constant high draw of the turbo, they didn't want to create an excessive amount of suction out of the crankcase and overwhelm the intake with oil. Just a thought.

 

Middle. Pretty sure my dip stick is yellow also.

 

No sweat! Great question. I’m interested too

 

I had it rerouted through the racor 6000 and back in to the intake for many years. Within the last two years I went from the Racor to the atmosphere just behind the ADII mounted 5' from the OEM pump that remains in the frame. I plugged the intake boot with a dependable plug.

I had an issue with one of the hoses at the engine, had none in stock and "temporarily" rerouted and plugged the boot.

Been that way since with zero issues, zero oil drip and zero smell.

 

IIRC Smackdaddy installed an oil separator after his engine rebuild because he had oil leaking through the brand new main seals, and apparently the leaks stopped after installing it.

Didn't work for me LOL. Not with the Racor 4500 and most likely original seals.

My truck must not have much blow by, because there hasn't been much oil in the separator anytime I have checked it.