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On an '89, the ignition switch is located on top of the steering column, about halfway between the steering wheel and the firewall.
The ignition switch is operated by a rod that is moved by a gear on the key cylinder.
If your truck is an automatic, you need to be careful of your shift indicator cable, if you lower the steering column.
With the key in the lock position, remove the lower trim around the steering column. The column is bolted to the frame of the dash by two bolts, from underneath. Once you lower the column, turn the key on and back off a few times, and see if the linkage rod movement, matches the key cylinder movement.
Visually inspect the ignition switch. The upper and lower halves are known to separate.
Also, check out this thread. These grounding points are similar to your '89. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-points.html
Posts 6 and 7 have pictures.
The main engine block ground, from the negative battery terminal to the engine block, is a known problem spot, if it's thirty plus years old.
It sounds like you have an ignition switch problem though, or that linkage rod has malfunctioned, near the key cylinder.
this weekend, I replaced the ignition switch. the casing was kind of loose.
after installing new unit - no change.
the linkage is functioning property. is there an electrical circuit between the tumbler and the switch?
or is there anything between the ignition switch and ?
There are arrows pointing out the fusible links in post #22.
awesome video and explanation .
wouldn't any of that happen after the signal went from the ignition switch to the starter relay?
the starter relay tests fine (when I bridge the poles and when I connect the signal pole to positive. there doesn't seem to be a signal coming from the ignition switch.
After replacing the ignition switch did these items start to work: "Everything that requires key does not work, the engine will not turn over, ACC (radio) does not work, no first position indicators (check engine light)"?
As far as the signal to trigger the starter relay goes when turning the key to the Start position the start signal also goes through the MLPS/Neutral Safety Switch (automatic transmissions) or the clutch pedal position switch assembly.
its an automatic so ill check the neutral safety switch - any tips there?
Test the Red/Light Blue wire output from the Ignition switch. Assuming it leaves the switch, it then goes through the Clutch pedal switch, that should have a jumper installed when you have an automatic, then continues on to the MLPS (E4OD) or NSS (C6/AOD). With the shift lever in Park or Neutral the Start signal leave there then heads to the starter solenoid. I would start back at the Ignition Switch to verify that Start signal is leaving the switch on the Red/Light Blue wire.
I have tracked these wires into the wire loom and cant see any fuse links.. the only fuse link that I can see is to a relay that goes to the trailer harness
SO... now that I know what a fusible link is - I went back and pulled the battery out so I could get a closer look at what is going on in there. (I had just been looking for inline fuses.
Seems I have two fried links.
one had previously been repaired (hacked)
I'm going to replace this this afternoon and see if that is it but per a previous response - I believe one of these goes to the ignition switch powering that side of the circuit.
That aftermarket Hella relay looks like fog lamps or a light bar to me
Those fuse links are right behind the solenoid in the pictures on the inner fender
The fuse links are NOT the problem if he is getting a slight ding out of the chime module
So back to basics, and checking the ignition switch
Do what all those posts said about checking that switch sparklepony
now that I have been digging in the schematics (my daughter found an actual shop manual for me) - it looks like fuse link L (brown link into BK/O) goes to the fuse panel and then to the "lights on, key in, door open" chime". So it seems that even if the ignition switch fuse link was toast, the key would still chime.
Fuse link M (brown link into Y) goes to the ignition and I have two fuse link to yellow wires that are fried.
unfortunately, many of the wires out of the starter relay are fuse link to yellow so the only way that I can think of to test them is to fix them...
next question is what would cause the fuse link to the ignition relay to overheat? Would that be a short? maybe something was wrong with the ignition switch?
It was the fusible link with gang of 4 wires:
Y,L,M,G
since all of these joined together into a terminal ring then to the Starter relay I replaced them all.
Soldered new fusible links to the terminal ring
bolted everything together
installed a new battery (the one in there was 7 years old)
It was the fusible link with gang of 4 wires:
Y,L,M,G
since all of these joined together into a terminal ring then to the Starter relay I replaced them all.
Soldered new fusible links to the terminal ring
bolted everything together
installed a new battery (the one in there was 7 years old)
Now it starts right up and runs great.
Thank you everyone for your help!!
Glad you got it going.
Two things I would do are, go over all the ground connections, as shown in an earlier post, and check the voltage at the battery posts, while the engine is running.
A bad ground connection can cause voltage drop/amperage increase, and the seven year old battery may have damaged the alternator. You should have about 14 volts at the battery posts, with the truck running.
One more thing, is to visually check your wiring harness in the engine compartment, as well as along the frame.
Something caused the overheating of those fusible links.
Maybe a chafed or burnt wire, or the non factory relay you removed, or a loose connection.
I wouldn't lose sleep over it, but I would check things out.
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