lost all power while driving today - help
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 62
Likes: 3
From: Angels Camp
That is not a factory relay and fuse assembly. That complicates troubleshooting this problem.
The silver canister mounted on the coil bracket is a radio suppression capacitor. We have a seen a few of those short the ignition power to ground. Disconnect it, turn the key to the Run position, then check for power at the coil. If no power check Fuse Link M. It is one of the fuse links mounted on the battery side of the starter solenoid. It is a blue 20ga. fuse link, but the wire is yellow as mentioned previously.
Back to that relay, it shows a yellow wire going to one terminal, and a red wire on the other. Any idea what that relay is actually doing? The label states Hella which is an aftermarket light/lamp manufacturer. If the truck has fog or running lights that may be the relay for them. No one knows until you start tracing wires.
The silver canister mounted on the coil bracket is a radio suppression capacitor. We have a seen a few of those short the ignition power to ground. Disconnect it, turn the key to the Run position, then check for power at the coil. If no power check Fuse Link M. It is one of the fuse links mounted on the battery side of the starter solenoid. It is a blue 20ga. fuse link, but the wire is yellow as mentioned previously.
Back to that relay, it shows a yellow wire going to one terminal, and a red wire on the other. Any idea what that relay is actually doing? The label states Hella which is an aftermarket light/lamp manufacturer. If the truck has fog or running lights that may be the relay for them. No one knows until you start tracing wires.
So - I am going to disregard and remove that relay just to get it out of the way.
I have disconnected the radio suppressor (the back side is actually melted so I have terminated the ending so it doesn't short.
I dont know what fuse link you are looking at - here is my starter solenoid
fuse link M?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,343
Likes: 1,318
From: Central Mississippi
Look under the steering column for a rectangular white plastic item (1-1/2 x 3?) attached with 2 screws & a bunch of wires in a single connector plugged into it.
Your actual ignition switch. See if has split or separated.
Real big on strange electrical faults when it fails.
Your actual ignition switch. See if has split or separated.
Real big on strange electrical faults when it fails.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 2,261
Likes: 744
From: Maryland
On an '89, the ignition switch is located on top of the steering column, about halfway between the steering wheel and the firewall.
The ignition switch is operated by a rod that is moved by a gear on the key cylinder.
If your truck is an automatic, you need to be careful of your shift indicator cable, if you lower the steering column.
With the key in the lock position, remove the lower trim around the steering column. The column is bolted to the frame of the dash by two bolts, from underneath. Once you lower the column, turn the key on and back off a few times, and see if the linkage rod movement, matches the key cylinder movement.
Visually inspect the ignition switch. The upper and lower halves are known to separate.
Also, check out this thread. These grounding points are similar to your '89. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-points.html
Posts 6 and 7 have pictures.
The main engine block ground, from the negative battery terminal to the engine block, is a known problem spot, if it's thirty plus years old.
It sounds like you have an ignition switch problem though, or that linkage rod has malfunctioned, near the key cylinder.
The ignition switch is operated by a rod that is moved by a gear on the key cylinder.
If your truck is an automatic, you need to be careful of your shift indicator cable, if you lower the steering column.
With the key in the lock position, remove the lower trim around the steering column. The column is bolted to the frame of the dash by two bolts, from underneath. Once you lower the column, turn the key on and back off a few times, and see if the linkage rod movement, matches the key cylinder movement.
Visually inspect the ignition switch. The upper and lower halves are known to separate.
Also, check out this thread. These grounding points are similar to your '89. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-points.html
Posts 6 and 7 have pictures.
The main engine block ground, from the negative battery terminal to the engine block, is a known problem spot, if it's thirty plus years old.
It sounds like you have an ignition switch problem though, or that linkage rod has malfunctioned, near the key cylinder.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 2,261
Likes: 744
From: Maryland
If you end up having to replace the rod actuated ignition switch, don't move the key from the lock position during the process, and maybe mark the position of the ignition switch, in relation to the two studs it's mounted on, so you can match that position, with the new switch.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
Fuse Link M has a yellow wire running to it. The fuse link itself is blue. It is most likely one of the wires indicated by the arrows. Good idea to check all of them IMHO.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,561
Likes: 2,672
From: Near Salt Lake City
That aftermarket Hella relay looks like fog lamps or a light bar to me
Those fuse links are right behind the solenoid in the pictures on the inner fender
The fuse links are NOT the problem if he is getting a slight ding out of the chime module
So back to basics, and checking the ignition switch
Do what all those posts said about checking that switch sparklepony
Those fuse links are right behind the solenoid in the pictures on the inner fender
The fuse links are NOT the problem if he is getting a slight ding out of the chime module
So back to basics, and checking the ignition switch
Do what all those posts said about checking that switch sparklepony
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 62
Likes: 3
From: Angels Camp
update
This weekend I did the following:
replaced the ignition switch. I didn't take off the shroud to inspect the key tumbler but the actuating rod moves correctly and the new switch was easy to install. all of the key positions are correct and the return from start feels correct.
No joy.
I bridged the two poles on the starter relay/solenoid and the starter engages.
I put a jump wire on the pole that the ignition signal goes to and then to the positive terminal. the starter engages.
There does not seem to be a signal coming through the ignition signal wire to the starter relay/solenoid.
Is there another relay between the ignition switch and the starter relay/solenoid?
the ignition signal wire goes into the loom pretty quickly, where does it come out?
is there something that connects to the tumbler that could be bad?
replaced the ignition switch. I didn't take off the shroud to inspect the key tumbler but the actuating rod moves correctly and the new switch was easy to install. all of the key positions are correct and the return from start feels correct.
No joy.
I bridged the two poles on the starter relay/solenoid and the starter engages.
I put a jump wire on the pole that the ignition signal goes to and then to the positive terminal. the starter engages.
There does not seem to be a signal coming through the ignition signal wire to the starter relay/solenoid.
Is there another relay between the ignition switch and the starter relay/solenoid?
the ignition signal wire goes into the loom pretty quickly, where does it come out?
is there something that connects to the tumbler that could be bad?
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 62
Likes: 3
From: Angels Camp
I have tracked these wires into the wire loom and cant see any fuse links.. the only fuse link that I can see is to a relay that goes to the trailer harness
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
As far as the signal to trigger the starter relay goes when turning the key to the Start position the start signal also goes through the MLPS/Neutral Safety Switch (automatic transmissions) or the clutch pedal position switch assembly.