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I noticed when it is cold out or when I just change my oil (10W30), I will have a lifter tap at startup for about a minute. Then it goes away. When the oil gets circulating or the oil has not been changed in several hundred miles it does not tap at startup. I use 30W in my Jeep 4.0L. I have thought about using it in the 351. The local parts store does not carry 10W40 anymore. Any suggestions?
What oil filter are you using ? My last oil change, I used a Fram, but found it's anti-drain back valve was not working. I replaced it with a Motorcraft from Walmart, and the tapping noise stopped after cold start up. I don't drive my truck much, but it was obvious to me what was happening. Now I have been using Fram filters almost 50 years, that one was the first I've ever had an issue with.
You might try a 5w-30 as it should flow easier when cold.
Ever thought of running 15w40 diesel oil in it? That is all I run in all my vehicles, even my wife's Honda accord. I do not like synthetic in older vehicles, especially the ones that burn a little oil and have a few minor leaks here and there. I can get 15w40 conventional oil easily. It's getting harder and harder to find the other weights of oil that are not synthetic.
I'll agree with the 15w-40 Checkout Shell Rotella 15w-40. Lot's of guy's on the turbo subaru legacy GT forum run rotella t6 you can find rotella at tractor supply too, etc.
I will never use the "orange can of death" after having the oil psi drop after 1000 miles at high way RPM in my 02 5.9 Dodge.
It was not the first time with Fram as I used a different brand between the 2 Fram's.
I also used them forever up to that point.
Now on my 300 six I have been using Wix filters but may try a different brand next change.
This is because at start up I can hear the bearings rattle till oil psi comes up. This tells me the filter is draining back to the pan.
The OP may have the filter draining back or a lifter pumping down when the motor is off for a time?
As for engine flush you have to be careful and more so on motors you dont know how dirty they are.
If you knock off to much sludge besides plugging the filter and now dirty oil gets pumped thru out the motor big chunks can block the oil pick up screen.
If this happens no oil gets pumped thru the motor, this is not good.
I know the inside of my motor is not that dirty as I have had the oil pan, valve & side lifter covers off and cleaned them and seen the insides.
Now before oil changes I add 1 qt of ATF and let the motor idle to get up to temp as I get my oil change tools together.
The ATF is a good cleaner / flush and I only run it at idle.
And for the 300 six motor people get 6 qt of oil or ask the shop how much they put in when doing oil changes as that is what the motor takes.
Dave ----
The 6qt, 5qt thing. It wasn't until a few years ago that I realized the engine took 6qt's. I've always only put 5qts since the late 90's when I got the truck from Dad.
A lot of the older truck may of used 6qt as they were work horses and oil helps cool the motor.
My son has done the oil changes on my truck for me.
It was this last time that I did it and found 1 qt down after adding 5 qt, jugs come in 5qt size so had to open the 2nd jug
I now know to get 6qt for the next change. Dont know where my son came up with the extra qt?
Dave ----
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