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oh yea.....
I just topped off the tank because Phillips66 App gave a 15 cent/gallon discount for Labor Day.... she took 26 gallons, 1st top off since April when I came back home from Utah.
oh well, I am going to visit my son down in Georgia in 3 or 4 weeks, that will take care of the summer fuel.
my 7.3 has never, ever, started in 3 seconds time, but it has always run smooth never smokes on startup.
A while back in started giving me a no start. I rebuilt the IPR and with some cranking it started. It has been starting decent but is pretty ornery and has been throwing a p1281 code.
Here is how it started today. New plugs, batteries, and starter. Pretty cold at 13 degrees but my OBS fired first crank with the same gp cycle.
Ouch. Add some anti gel when you get fuel since you're on E. Looks a touch fuel smokey after startup. Like glow plugs aren't getting full voltage They should have still been on that soon after starting at that temp.
Takes a long time for the oil pressure to register. Is it possible the HPOP is running out of oil before it starts? I’m not familiar with how quickly the gauge will read during an extended crank but wanted to float the idea just in case.
Poor connection between the battery and glow plug relay.
Voltage drop across the relay, Check this using a voltmeter. Connect the leads to each of the large relay terminals. Turn on the ignition. The reading should drop down reasonably close to zero.
Bad connection(s) at the valve cover gasket(s). Inspect both halves of the outer connectors for evidence of overheating and/or deformation.
Bad individual glow plug(s). Check resistance of each glow plug at the pins in the valve cover gasket. They should be in the area of 0.2 ohms IIRC. The 4 larger pins (2 at each end of the connector) go to the glow plugs.
I "think" the oil pressure gauge is working as intended. Based on a video of my truck starting I took about 7 years at time stamp 30 seconds. I "think" the oil pressure gauge does not register while the starter is cranking and starts to register as the engine is firing off.
I could be wrong though...
As you likely know, DTC 1281 is "ICP Circuit Out of Range High" and leads to pinpoint test DC8, which I have attached to this post. Ignoring the DTC, I would also be inclined to look further into the operation of the glow plugs.
I "think" the oil pressure gauge is working as intended. Based on a video of my truck starting I took about 7 years at time stamp 30 seconds. I "think" the oil pressure gauge does not register while the starter is cranking and starts to register as the engine is firing off.
I could be wrong though...
My e99 will register oil pressure while cranking. That's how I know it's about ready to fire after I've had the injectors out or worked on the hpo system.
x2 on getting some fuel in the tank, the ol' girl is half starved.
Is there a wall close by the passenger rear? The exhaust had a strange tone going on but a rebound off a wall would explain it pretty quick.
Edit: Based on the voltage gauge I'd bet not all, if any, of the glow plugs are lighting up. Unless you've got some brand new monster lithium's under the hood that is.
Poor connection between the battery and glow plug relay.
Voltage drop across the relay, Check this using a voltmeter. Connect the leads to each of the large relay terminals. Turn on the ignition. The reading should drop down reasonably close to zero.
Bad connection(s) at the valve cover gasket(s). Inspect both halves of the outer connectors for evidence of overheating and/or deformation.
Bad individual glow plug(s). Check resistance of each glow plug at the pins in the valve cover gasket. They should be in the area of 0.2 ohms IIRC. The 4 larger pins (2 at each end of the connector) go to the glow plugs.
This truck has a GPCM that typically throws code of they aren’t activated although it does sound like the glow plugs aren’t working. Glow plugs are brand new from RR. If an individual plug doesn’t activate it throws a code for that plug.
My e99 will register oil pressure while cranking. That's how I know it's about ready to fire after I've had the injectors out or worked on the hpo system.
x2 on getting some fuel in the tank, the ol' girl is half starved.
Is there a wall close by the passenger rear? The exhaust had a strange tone going on but a rebound off a wall would explain it pretty quick.
Edit: Based on the voltage gauge I'd bet not all, if any, of the glow plugs are lighting up. Unless you've got some brand new monster lithium's under the hood that is.
No wall next to it. It does have a little different tone, 4” stainless mbrp turbo back with muffler.
That would have been useful information earlier, lol. Oh, well. I didn't notice the mileage, but how many miles on the injectors, and have you set the tune back to stock?
That would have been useful information earlier, lol. Oh, well. I didn't notice the mileage, but how many miles on the injectors, and have you set the time back to stock?
270k on the injectors if they are stock. It has a hydra with a tune that has been unchanged for a long time.
That would have been useful information earlier, lol. Oh, well. I didn't notice the mileage, but how many miles on the injectors, and have you set the tune back to stock?
You didn't notice the front fender saying EXCURSION at the beginning of the video
When was the last time it was fired up? it behaves like it's been sitting out in the cold for a while...otherwise i don't have anything useful to add
I caught it was an Excursion, but only because I took the link to YouTube direct where I could see it full screen on a 17 inch laptop.
the one thing I kept looking for, and never did see, was a Battery Voltmeter so "we" could see when the Glow Plugs cycled off.
I think that is very important, and for me, it is the single determining factor as to when I hit the starter....
I wait for the battery voltage to start to recover by about 2/10s of a volt or more.
In this video made about 4 months ago, I show the DVM and waiting until it starts to recover... roughly 40 seconds into the video the DVM is going down to the lowest point, then it recovers and the engine starts
Not mentioned in this thread, what weight oil is in the engine? I have found that going to 5w40 full synthetic makes a huge difference in now fast it cranks and starts up, and the idle smooths out fast.