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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Stalls when turning left

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Old Sep 2, 2024 | 12:12 PM
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Ethan’s f-250's Avatar
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Stalls when turning left

I have a 1989 F-250, rwd, fuel injected 351 Windsor, with a 3 speed automatic, 2 gas tanks, 245k miles. The fuel pump, fuel filter, and oil pressure sending unit are all new. When driving, usually when making a left-hand turn at speed (It doesn’t happen if I turn left after starting up from a stop sign), the power to the high pressure fuel pump is shut off. Power is restored to the fuel pump somewhere between 1-30 minutes later. This happens on both gas tanks and I’ve swapped the fuel pump relay. I’ve also jumped the inertia switch, and it still stalls.

Any thoughts?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2024 | 01:16 PM
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How do you know you're losing power to the fuel pump? Are you also losing power to your ignition system? Does the engine slowly start to sputter and die after 5-10 seconds or is it an instantaneous shut-down like you turned the key to the off position?
You can't lose power to your high pressure fuel pump without losing power to your low pressure fuel pumps also. They're all on the same circuit.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2024 | 02:03 PM
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Prototype mech:

It dies instantly as if I turned the ignition off.
Normally, when I turn my ignition to the on position before starting, I can hear the high-pressure pump pressurize. When it stalls, there is no pump noise when I turn the ignition to the on position. Confirmed no power to high pressure pump with multimeter. With no voltage at the pump, engine cranks but will not start. After it stalls, I continue turning the ignition to the on position every few minutes. When I hear the pump pressurize, the truck starts right up. Voltage confirmed with multimeter.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2024 | 04:00 PM
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Ok. I understand what you are saying. I suspect you're losing power to the whole system, not just the high pressure fuel pump. This is a common problem with bricknose trucks as the ignition switch are prone to overheat and fail. Luckily, they're pretty easy to replace.
You can test this by carrying a 4ft length of ~14 gauge wire with you, with 1" of insulation stripped off of each end.
Next time your truck stalls, don't touch the ignition key, pop the hood, connect one side of the wire to the positive battery terminal, and shove the other end onto the red/green wire terminal on your ignition coil. This will feed power backwards though the ignition system and your fuel pump should immediately run again for 2 seconds and you'll be able to start the engine.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2024 | 04:25 PM
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Thank you so much, I appreciate your help. I will try this
 
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