PerTronix wire issue.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 45
Likes: 19
From: Hanford, Ca
PerTronix wire issue.
I’ve bought the PerTronix unit and I have to bypass the resistor. The red wire was immediately removed but the black wire in the back side of the unit is still there doing nothing. Can I just eliminate it or does it need to be attached to the positive side of the coil? I did search and could not really see the answer so if it has been answered just tell me to keep looking it on here somewhere. I have a 1956 ford f100 with mostly a 1957 engine. Thank for any help.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,828
Likes: 466
From: Mason City, Iowa
I am trying to picture your set up, but I think what you are asking is if you could eliminate the wire from the coil side of the resistor that is fed from the "I " post of your starter solenoid relay. With a Pertronix unit the answer is yes. Actually you even eliminate the whole resistor. All you need here is to run a 12 volt IGNITION ON wire to the + terminal on your coil and that is where you connect the Red wire that the runs into your Pertronix unit. Then take the Black wire from your Pertronix and connect that to your - coil terminal. If you are running a tach, connect that wire also to that - terminal. Then you should be all done. Very simple and it should work very well for you.
EDITED :
I earlier mis-labled the stater solenoid post. It is corrected now.
EDITED :
I earlier mis-labled the stater solenoid post. It is corrected now.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
I am trying to picture your set up, but I think what you are asking is if you could eliminate the wire from the coil side of the resistor that is fed from the "I " post of your starter solenoid relay. With a Pertronix unit the answer is yes. Actually you even eliminate the whole resistor. All you need here is to run a 12 volt IGNITION ON wire to the + terminal on your coil and that is where you connect the Red wire that the runs into your Pertronix unit. Then take the Black wire from your Pertronix and connect that to your - coil terminal. If you are running a tach, connect that wire also to that - terminal. Then you should be all done. Very simple and it should work very well for you.
EDITED :
I earlier mis-labled the stater solenoid post. It is corrected now.
EDITED :
I earlier mis-labled the stater solenoid post. It is corrected now.
What ever wire you have going from the IGN switch to the coil needs to have power both when key is in run but ALSO when cranking.
If you find the wire only has power in run and not cranking you can run a wire from the starter solenoid "I" stud as that should have power when cranking as it sent full 12 volts to the coil for hotter spark when starting. Could yours be getting cranking power from the solenoid?
I have seen posts that someone wires up HEI and the power wire only is hot with key to run and not start and wonder why it will not start / run with key but can jump solenoid, key on, it will run.
Dave ----
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,828
Likes: 466
From: Mason City, Iowa
You were this I I close
What ever wire you have going from the IGN switch to the coil needs to have power both when key is in run but ALSO when cranking.
If you find the wire only has power in run and not cranking you can run a wire from the starter solenoid "I" stud as that should have power when cranking as it sent full 12 volts to the coil for hotter spark when starting. Could yours be getting cranking power from the solenoid?
I have seen posts that someone wires up HEI and the power wire only is hot with key to run and not start and wonder why it will not start / run with key but can jump solenoid, key on, it will run.
Dave ----
What ever wire you have going from the IGN switch to the coil needs to have power both when key is in run but ALSO when cranking.
If you find the wire only has power in run and not cranking you can run a wire from the starter solenoid "I" stud as that should have power when cranking as it sent full 12 volts to the coil for hotter spark when starting. Could yours be getting cranking power from the solenoid?
I have seen posts that someone wires up HEI and the power wire only is hot with key to run and not start and wonder why it will not start / run with key but can jump solenoid, key on, it will run.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 45
Likes: 19
From: Hanford, Ca
Thank you both. I think they both have answered one question I didn’t ask and that’s is one of the wires on the coil already getting a 12 volt from the ignition switch but I’m thinking and I’ll check it may only be getting it at run or cranking in which case I’ll need to run an additional wire.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,828
Likes: 466
From: Mason City, Iowa
Thank you both. I think they both have answered one question I didn’t ask and that’s is one of the wires on the coil already getting a 12 volt from the ignition switch but I’m thinking and I’ll check it may only be getting it at run or cranking in which case I’ll need to run an additional wire.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 45
Likes: 19
From: Hanford, Ca
Hooler1 it’s a stock ignition and after I posted I checked the voltage with the key on and just as you said I do have 12 volts so 🤞🏼 when it shows up today it will run better than ever. I assume only thing left is adjusting a new vacuum advance. Hopefully that should be a smooth and easy but like everything I do on this truck it always seems to be just a tad bit more to it than it seems. Thank you
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,828
Likes: 466
From: Mason City, Iowa
No problem!
Were you replacing your whole distributor with a Pertronix unit? I only ask because you were mentioning adjusting a new vacuum advance can. I have a early 302 in my 56. And I bought the Pertronix 2 distributor. That one came with a non adjustable can, which later I changed over to an adjustable unit. Anyway that non adjustable vac advance can turned out was very close to what I ended up with using an adjustable one. I am by no means an ignition tuning expert but it is a lot of fun to experiment with.
And when it comes to "everything I do on this truck always is a tad bit more than it seems" I experience that with mine too!
Were you replacing your whole distributor with a Pertronix unit? I only ask because you were mentioning adjusting a new vacuum advance can. I have a early 302 in my 56. And I bought the Pertronix 2 distributor. That one came with a non adjustable can, which later I changed over to an adjustable unit. Anyway that non adjustable vac advance can turned out was very close to what I ended up with using an adjustable one. I am by no means an ignition tuning expert but it is a lot of fun to experiment with.
And when it comes to "everything I do on this truck always is a tad bit more than it seems" I experience that with mine too!
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 45
Likes: 19
From: Hanford, Ca
I actually thought about replacing the whole distributor but as I said it always seems to be a bit of more trouble than I though and without taking it out I just figured by the location of the distributor I might have to drop the engine or something to get it to fit back there so just upgraded the few things there in the old unit. But I replaced the vacuum advance because the truck would really be gutless taking off and the last time it did this I believe it was the vacuum advance. I messed with it and got it lubed up and the gutless problem went away.So not in the clear yet I may get it all back together and another surprise. Experience at it best, and some frustration.
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