All: My 352V8 rebuild came with a PerTronix Ignitor "electronic" points and Flamethrower 1.5 ohm coil.
As such I understand I need to provide the Ignitor with a "switched 12volts" for it to run properly.
To do so, I'll have to "splice" into the red w/green wire coming from the the ignition switch that joins the pink resistor wire.
My question is; can I disconnect the pink resistor wire and use the bullet connection on the red w/green wire to connect 12 volts to the Ignitor? I.e take the pink resistor wire out of service?
If I can't do that because the pink resistor wire connects to the solenoid thru the firewall, what is the recommended method for splicing into the red w/green wire ahead of the pink resistor wire?
Pretty technical I know, but I'm a greenhorn, and don't want to screw up a fairly pristine F250.
Thanks, Jeff

 

You should be good to run that coil and Ignitor "straight up". I don't recommend splicing your pink wire at all. Run it as normal to your coil and use small ring connectors on the two wires off your Ignitor. Just make sure you have a solid grounding circuit between the engine, cab and frame.

 

I would be very hesitant on using Petronix units. I have used them in the past, and they worked well, WHEN THEY WORKED. After the third time one of my vehicles left me stranded because the unit failed, and they will fail your car just shuts off and will not start again. I went back to points. When they start to go it is more gradual and you can usually limp home. Just my 2 cents.

 

If you are using the pertronix coil you have to give it 12V. Yes, just take the pink wire out of service. You can cut it close to the ignition switch and splice in a solid wire. An inch or two of that pink wire will have no effect on the voltage. If you are concerned with a failure just keep a set of points and condenser in the glovebox. It only takes a few minutes to swap back.

 

Crop duster: Thanks for the reply and suggestion .
Your suggestion raises another question.
That is: the pink resistor wire (16A in the Ignition wiring diagram) connects at the firewall main disconnect to wire 262 going to the solenoid 'I' terminal and also wire 16 red w/green going to the plus side of the coil.
So, if I cut the pink resistor wire that removes the switched supply to the solenoid and the coil from the original harness.
The new wire, that you suggest could be spliced into a short section of the resistor wire, will provide switched power to the coil, but how does the solenoid 'I' terminal get its power?
Thanks for your assistance. Jeff

 

this is what i always did when installing pertronix units. disconnect the resistor wire from ignition switch and run my own wire in it's place.
as for having the pertronix go bad, i have only had one fail in over 30 years, and that was within minutes of installation.
and i have installed over 100 of them.
i still have a set of points, condensor, and feeler gauge in the glove box of both my falcon and 7 litre. but i think after 30 years in the falcon and 21 years in the 7 litre, i am safe to take the points and condensor out.

 

You simply replace wire 16A with a new wire.
Wire 262 and wire 16 remain untouched, and will work just as before.
The easiest way to replace wire 16A might be to cut it near the switch and to cut it near the firewall. Then strip those two short ends at the switch and the firewall and splice a new wire in between them.
There are other ways, and possibly better ways - like completely removing the entire 16A wire and building a new wire with the right connector ends - but provided you get a good connection at the two ends of a splice, it should be fine.
Wire 16 and 262 are 18 gage. I would choose 18 gage for your replacement wire. Wire 16A is 20 gage, so you will be splicing 18 gage to 20 gage, which is fine. Just choose the right size of splice item. For instance, the very common Dorman wire splices and connectors would be the Red ones for 20 and 18 gage (not the blue ones or yellow ones). https://www.dormanproducts.com/c-314...onnectors.aspx
You could do a 'permanent' crimped butt splice, or add crimped male/female connectors on all the ends and plug the new wire in.
I do not suggest using types of push-on or T-tap style splice connectors. These are not reliable.

I've run Pertronix for years w/o any issues. I've found better overall performance and easier maintenance with it. You could keep a spare Pertronix in your glove box. I don't.

 

when i do a splice i use either a red or blue crimp barrel connector with the plastic cut off. then solder it, and finish with heat shrink tubing.

 

Instead of replacing 16A I just run a 18 gauge wire in parallel for Pertronix units. This way it is still in place if you want to go concours at one point Keep in mind you the supply voltage must be 0V if the engine is not running. If you start the engine and for whatever reason the engine dies, turn the key. Otherwise Pertronix 1 units are getting damaged. Regarding reliability, I personally never had an issue with my Pertronix units. But I also have my old points in the trunk. I stranded before with a bad condenser... So even with reliable points you can run into issues.

 

me too, but my response was getting too long

 

Here are some pictures which might help you.


Sometimes it is hard to identify the color of the wire.

Sliced in right at the beginning of the pink wire and.

Sliced before the firewall connector.

 

Thanks Truck4SF. Jeff