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Old Aug 19, 2024 | 06:24 PM
  #1  
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4 wheel drive question

My 2011 FX4 has hubs you can manually "lock" by turning at each wheel.
The other option it says "automatic"
Inside the cab I have the dial, 2W, 4Hi. 4Low.
When the hub it turned to automatic, it doesn't really seem to be in 4 wheel drive if I turn the dial to 4Hi.
However if I turn the hub to "locked" it for sure is in 4 wheel drive.
Am I missing something?
I hardly ever use 4 wheel drive, just sometimes on the boat ramp when it gets slippery with debris from the tides, but only for 50 feet or so.

Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 19, 2024 | 08:54 PM
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In a nut shell when you turn the hub to "lock" if their working correctly, they are locked like the old school way 4x4 was. In auto mode when you switch the dash switch it opens a vacuum sorce to the hubs which is intended to pull in the hub locking mechanism. Problems are worn seals in the front end that don't hold vacuum or/and leaky vacuum lines. Many disconnect/delete the vacuum system and cap off the lines that are going into the knuckles of the front end and be done with that system.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2024 | 09:00 PM
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PERFECT...... I was thinking it was something like that. The dash lights up as if it's in 4 WD, but that means the switch itself is working at that level only, it can't sense the axle itself.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2024 | 09:13 AM
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Correct, the light has no idea if the hubs are actually locked. All it signals is that the transfer case did indeed shift the sprag so it drives the front output yoke of the xfer case. it has no idea if the driveshaft is there, the carrier is being driven, the axles are turning, the hubs are working. Those hubs are the bain of every SD owner. They are highly prone to being stuck and the seals failing. They need to be serviced yearly to ensure they MIGHT work when you want them to. Many people will opt to toss those plastic junkers and get real hubs like Mile Marker or Warn. Yes, you have to click them in and out when needed, but they simply don't fail, and they can take ridiculous levels of torque and strain. You more likely to twist a axle shaft than break the aftermarket hubs
 
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Old Aug 20, 2024 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by nydiver
Correct, the light has no idea if the hubs are actually locked. All it signals is that the transfer case did indeed shift the sprag so it drives the front output yoke of the xfer case. it has no idea if the driveshaft is there, the carrier is being driven, the axles are turning, the hubs are working. Those hubs are the bain of every SD owner. They are highly prone to being stuck and the seals failing. They need to be serviced yearly to ensure they MIGHT work when you want them to. Many people will opt to toss those plastic junkers and get real hubs like Mile Marker or Warn. Yes, you have to click them in and out when needed, but they simply don't fail, and they can take ridiculous levels of torque and strain. You more likely to twist a axle shaft than break the aftermarket hubs
OK, so if I leave the hubs on locked, and in 2WD, the hubs are indeed locked, but the "sprag" isn't, therefor I am in two-wheel mode, right?
Now the **** when turned to 4WD that sprag engages the transfer case and I am now in 4WD, right?
So the system that is used in a manual locking hub is just that, which I have to do now, lock my hubs, but the rest of it is done electronically with the **** which energizes the sprag to move in or out of the transfer case....is that right?
 
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Old Aug 20, 2024 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by island eddie
OK, so if I leave the hubs on locked, and in 2WD, the hubs are indeed locked, but the "sprag" isn't, therefor I am in two-wheel mode, right?
Now the **** when turned to 4WD that sprag engages the transfer case and I am now in 4WD, right?
So the system that is used in a manual locking hub is just that, which I have to do now, lock my hubs, but the rest of it is done electronically with the **** which energizes the sprag to move in or out of the transfer case....is that right?
More or less yes. If you don't swap to aftermarket hubs and leave the current ones in place (as it seems they still work in manual, or 'Lock,') then they function just about as you described. In the 'Lock' position, the hubs are locked to the axle shaft, which will spin the carrier and your front driveshaft - you may hear a low hum from under your feet when at speed. You may also not be able to turn all the way, because the front axle is 'locked' and fighting you, but it shouldn't be too bad, nowhere near as bad as when you engage 4WD on the transfer case.

I would suggest, however, that you look into blocking off the vacuum lines going to your hubs, as well as the hole where said lines connect to the knuckles. If you have a vacuum leak somewhere, eventually there's a good chance you'll get some water intrusion, which can lead to the hubs 'seizing' and being unable to switch from 'lock' to 'auto.' A good time to do it is when you swap out said hubs for aftermarkets (Mile Markers are less expensive but still a good quality unit, the last set of Warn lockers I had was pricer but still a great unit).
 
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Old Aug 20, 2024 | 12:30 PM
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Agreed with all of this.
Do a little troubleshooting before throwing parts at it. Could be as simple as a bad connection at the knuckle. That's the most common breakpoint on the vac lines.
The Ford hubs don't suck IMO. I've been using them for many years without trouble.

Maintenance items: They should be disassembled cleaned and greased every so often. Monthly give them a twist to keep them freed up.

Not a bad idea to lock them and then go for a 20-mile ride during the summer. This keeps the front ujoints happy. They can seize from lack of use, water intrusion & lack of a squirt of grease at each oil change.

If they seize you will/could have problems steering the truck.

I keep mine locked in during the winter unless I'm going on a long road trip. Won't hurt anything except gas mileage.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2024 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Agreed with all of this.
Do a little troubleshooting before throwing parts at it. Could be as simple as a bad connection at the knuckle. That's the most common breakpoint on the vac lines.
The Ford hubs don't suck IMO. I've been using them for many years without trouble.

Maintenance items: They should be disassembled cleaned and greased every so often. Monthly give them a twist to keep them freed up.

Not a bad idea to lock them and then go for a 20-mile ride during the summer. This keeps the front ujoints happy. They can seize from lack of use, water intrusion & lack of a squirt of grease at each oil change.

If they seize you will/could have problems steering the truck.

I keep mine locked in during the winter unless I'm going on a long road trip. Won't hurt anything except gas mileage.
Solid stuff here. Caution, and I'm sure it was just overlooked: no tight turns on pavement during that summer drive locked in - could result in damage if the tires don't slip enough. Usually better to get out on some dirt roads for this.

And as for the winter comment...yeah, leave 'em locked in. Fuel mileage is already taking a tank due to winter fuels, the difference between hubs locked vs unlocked is really negligible.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 10:49 AM
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Could just be the vacuum hoses at the hubs, I’ve had to replace mine, see this thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...just-spin.html
 
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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by madsonp
Could just be the vacuum hoses at the hubs, I’ve had to replace mine, see this thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...just-spin.html
Looked up under there yesterday and they seem tight, but I guess it's possible..... thanks.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by island eddie
Looked up under there yesterday and they seem tight, but I guess it's possible..... thanks.
Yeah, mine looked good to but were cracked, so I suggest pulling them and bending them to check for cracks.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by madsonp
Yeah, mine looked good to but were cracked, so I suggest pulling them and bending them to check for cracks.
OK,,,,thanks
 
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