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I would think this is the right location and your other thread should be here. Our trucks are the same as a Superduty and the alternator designed for the 7.3 is the same for the Excursion as the Superduty.
Regarding the DC alternator, they look really nice and O1_Excursion is one of the most knowledgable Excursion/7.3 guys here, however the DC is >$500 for a 180 amp and Mechman, highly regard and recommended by many is just over $400 for a 240 amp. Isn't yours a Mechman, are you having problems with it?
I'm real close to pulling the trigger on the Mechman, hence the reason for my reply.
I would think this is the right location and your other thread should be here. Our trucks are the same as a Superduty and the alternator designed for the 7.3 is the same for the Excursion as the Superduty.
Regarding the DC alternator, they look really nice and O1_Excursion is one of the most knowledgable Excursion/7.3 guys here, however the DC is >$500 for a 180 amp and Mechman, highly regard and recommended by many is just over $400 for a 240 amp. Isn't yours a Mechman, are you having problems with it?
I'm real close to pulling the trigger on the Mechman, hence the reason for my reply.
My MechMan is 340 amps,
and was just a tad over $500 IIRC, been over two years ago now.
The one I'm looking at is the 240 amp. With their coupon code you get 15% off, no tax and free shipping. It's a pretty good deal!
That's all I need since I'm not running a winch, plow or heavy current draw from any other tools. I only have LED driving lights, HID headlights, a 900 watt audio amp, and infrequently pulling a trailer not to mention all the vehicles accessories like windshield wipers, air conditioning, etc...
I assume you are happy with your Mechman alternator?
What are you running that you need that many amps? How heavy is the wiring feeding all of those amps?
I posted this in another thread:
The stereo system (900 watts) is direct to the battery and fused. The HID headlights are direct to the battery via a relay controlled by the headlight switch. Those are the only accessories outside of the factory system. No winch, plow, or any other heavy loads present. When I turn on the headlights, driving lights, air conditioning front & rear with the fans on full and windshield wipers, voltage drops into the high 12's. Added that I have a reman alternator, it's not keeping up, hence the desire for a better alternator. The OEM alternator only puts out 110 amps at best. Sure I don't need 240+ amps but given how many have testified to the fact that the Mechman is top quality, I feel pretty confident that the 240 amp Mechman is a very good choice.
My battery cables are 2/0 from the battery to battery connection, ground from each battery is also a 2/0. From the battery to the starter relay and continuing to the starter are both 3/0.
I've got a 160 amp alternator from DB Electrical (with a bridge rectifier) that's been running since about 2010 with not a single issue. Getting a high output alternator from them seems to now require a phone call and conversation instead of just picking from a list online, and I guess that's not a totally bad thing at all.
The one I'm looking at is the 240 amp. With their coupon code you get 15% off, no tax and free shipping. It's a pretty good deal!
That's all I need since I'm not running a winch, plow or heavy current draw from any other tools. I only have LED driving lights, HID headlights, a 900 watt audio amp, and infrequently pulling a trailer not to mention all the vehicles accessories like windshield wipers, air conditioning, etc...
I assume you are happy with your Mechman alternator?
that 240A would probably be all I need, and at a much better price point.
How does it perform? Absolutely Fantastic
Am I happy with it? Totally, No Regrets.
From glow plugs OFF, to startup and 14.85 volts is about 2 minutes in cold Wx... less in hot weather. Oh, I was supposed to make you a Video, be right back.
How is the big cable routed, as per your request yesterday.
below is the Driver Side battery showing how well FLUID FILM protects the terminals, it is dirty of course, dust collects on oily stuff, made no effort to clean the dust up.... but notice, there is ZERO Corrosion on the Terminals
The clips? 4.5 Amp Battery Tender, is not a Permanent install yet, after 2 years, why be in a hurry?
Below is the Passenger Side battery, showing the effects of FLUID FILM after 2+ years with the attendant dust accumulation.
ya gotta admit, that fluid film stuff is Tony the Tiger Great stuff.
From my research, corrosion is a result of the battery acid from lead-acid batteries vaporizing and leaking from the filler/vent caps and or the battery posts themselves. Usually a result of over or under charging. Either one can cause heat from charging at oo high a voltage or too much draw on a low voltage battery. That is why I am making all these inquiries. Also I understand a good 14.2 mean voltage consistently is about right. I'm no battery engineer but 14.8 volts directly at the battery seems a bit high. I have a volt meter in place of the old butt lighter in the dash which represents a true battery voltage.
From my research, corrosion is a result of the battery acid from lead-acid batteries vaporizing and leaking from the filler/vent caps and or the battery posts themselves. Usually a result of over or under charging. Either one can cause heat from charging at oo high a voltage or too much draw on a low voltage battery. That is why I am making all these inquiries. Also I understand a good 14.2 mean voltage consistently is about right. I'm no battery engineer but 14.8 volts directly at the battery seems a bit high. I have a volt meter in place of the old butt lighter in the dash which represents a true battery voltage.
nope, it is NOT too high for Wet Cell batteries, or AGM for that matter.
there are charts to prove that, will show them in a bit.
I watch the DVM to alert me when the glow plugs are OFF, which causes the battery voltage to rise up again.
the batteries will NOT be equalized properly unless they are pushed to 14.8+ volts, look at this chart under Flooded.
Note at the bottom of this chart, it takes 2 hours to fully Equalize the battery cells.... the reason the Alternator regulates at 14.8 volts, is because most urban trips are 20 minutes to work and back, if you don't push them hard, they will not be charged enough to last more than 3 years.
Resting battery voltage, not being charged, engine OFF
the starter on my truck is a direct drive, it only cranks at about 150 rpm,
I have a gear drive starter on the OEM frame, that is supposed to spin it twice that fast....
the current starter makes for slow starts, I see videos where 7.3s will start up in 5 or 6 seconds.... mine never has, I attribute that to the slow spinning starter.
Thank you John. That was very educational and further supports my decision to go with the Mechman 240 amp alternator. It appears unanimous with everyone that I have seen here on FTE and YouTube has had success with the Mechman.
Now that the decision on the alternator has been made, I have to decide if the new battery cable from the alternator to each battery should have the lugs soldered or just crimped. Most folks on YouTube seem to favor soldering but when I search the web for answers, they highly recommend crimping over soldering although both will work equally as well. I only need to make two cables if I run independent cables from the alternator to each battery. Being able to just crimp makes life much easier when I can buy a hydraulic crimp tool from Amazon for ~$40 that comes with a cable cutter. Add lugs cable and shrink tubing and call it a day. Probably cheaper than having the right lengths made at a local shop and I will have a tool for further work down the road if I need.
Solder alone, will NOT do the job.
At extremely high currents, it will MELT.
The terminals must be Crimped tight, to get a good "Gas Tight" Oxygen free connection between the cable and the terminal.
After they are Crimped, Solder is used to ensure a GAS TIGHT connection, it is not to guarantee a good connection.
How tight?
I bought a Hydraulic Crimper for that job.
I also have the ole standby, an Anvil with a Vee Notch in the bottom, and a Plunger that you are supposed to use a 5 lb hammer to force it down on the cable... that means you better have it sitting on something extremely solid and stable....
I have used it for Decades making up cables for Employers that I used to work for.. No solder needed, if they are GAS TIGHT.
