I was watching one of my favorite Auto Mechanic videos and "Rainman Ray" mentioned that he really likes

DC Power engineering
in California for high output Alternators

DC Power Engineering - High Output Alternators

I don't know anything about them, but their website sure looks interesting.

Just throwing this up for an alternate source for ALTERNATORS.


I bought a MechMan which is Made in the USA...
but that was 2 years ago.

 

I've been running the 8307-180-HP by DC Power since Jan 2019. The Nations Starter & Alternator crapped out just outside of the warranty, and they really didn't want to help.

 

Not quite sure which Alternator went bad on you???

you mention both in the same sentence w/o clarifying which is the good one?

 

The DC is my current one since Jan 2019, the Nations starter & alternator I felt was crap.

 

Did you (have to) upgrade your primary leads?

 

I did not, I am still on factory cables which I replaced new in 2016 from Ford.
Although I am not consuming 180 amps, I did add a crossover cable from the alternator to the pass battery for more even and distributed charging.

 

I've had three DC Power alternators...I have a massive custom wiring setup and I am not a power hog. It seemed that every two years on the nose, it would have a problem and then I had to pay a fee to "rebuild it" I purchased a Mechman alternator four years ago now and not a hiccup since...

 

that makes me feel immensely better about buying my MechMan....
I just went by their claims, and Reviews, before I bought it.

IMO, having twice the Capacity needed, just let's the ole girl cruise alone coasting without overheating.

In my case, why I bought it, was to keep the batteries up when Winching a big load out of a ditch.

 

I just picked up the Excursion today from the shop after another oil drip. They had it for two weeks to the day and had to reseal/replace the timing cover gasket, the oil cooler gaskets and remove/reseal the Morosso oil pan gasket. When I picked it up I noticed two things. First the back-up camera isn't functioning, most likely from a ground not connected due to having to lift the body slightly to access the oil pan. The engine started right up as normal but I noticed the volt meter was reading 13 volts. The shop did a load test before I left and the alternator read 12.99 to 13.0 volts. They also noticed the alternator terminal/wire was running hot and had a little corrosion where the engine wire harness meets the terminal lug at the alternator. There wan't much we could do at the moment as they would have to order a new replacement lug. I have to return the truck tomorrow morning to fix the b-up camera ground. While there I'll see if they can order the replacement lug.

I took it for a short drive and the volt meter read is now fluctuating from 13.1 to 13.7. Definitely a concern! When I arrived home is when I noticed the b-up camera not functioning and at the same time the engine felt like it wass lugging, almost dyeing when I press the accelerator. After the initial press on the accelerator the truck seemed to reverse fine. I suspect this is a result of low voltage. Too many coincidences at the same time (hot alternator wire, engine lugging while engaging reverse almost to a stall). The shop said they would evaluate it tomorrow morning.

Just two weeks ago the volt meter read 13.8 to 14.1 so I'm guessing the alternator is starting to fail as I've suspected before. Today I ordered a new Mechman 240 amp alternator part number 7796240. This should help the low voltage issue and hopefully the reverse issue.

Update Sept 18
Went for another drive this evening and now the voltage is back up to 13.9 to 14.0 volts where it was before. This tells me that for the two weeks not running in the shop the batteries must have dropped a tiny bit of charge. I would think if the batteries needed charge then the voltage output from the alternator would be at maximum. I surmise that the voltmeter getting its reading from the factory cigarette lighter is the system voltage and the reason the alternator power wire was hot must have been because the alternator was working harder. Although I did not open the hood to check, the voltage behavior makes a little sense.

The transmission behavior is still a huge concern. When I shift from drive to reverse, the engine rpm dips way low. After the initial dip in rpm's, reverse acts normal. My guess is a possible alignment issue that gets corrected during rotation reversal. Just a guess.

Update Sept 19:
Picked her up from the shop today. Turns out that the on board computers needed resetting. The shop checked everything and she now runs and shifts like new. I'm closing this chapter so I can work on getting the new alternator and associated wiring.

Update Sept 29:
After about 200 miles, no detectable leaks and the transmission is shifting properly. Woohoo!!!

 

see your other post for my reply

 

The new Mechman 240 amp alternator arrived yesterday and I'm now waiting for Amazon to deliver battery cable, lugs, hydraulic crimper, 300 amp fuse, heat shrink tubing, cable loom, and a 1/2" breaker bar (for the belt tensioner).

The only concern I have is if there's clearance under the hood for the fuse that will be located on the alternator output stud that is oriented straight up. It's about 1-5/8" tall. It should be fine, hopefully.

I like the way Mechman sends a test tag letting you know it's amperage rating at idle and at 1600 rpm.

 

[QUOTE=01__Excursion;21320582]I did not, I am still on factory cables which I replaced new in 2016 from Ford.
Although I am not consuming 180 amps, I did add a crossover cable from the alternator to the pass battery for more even and distributed charging.








I like the idea of running a ground from the alternator body to the passenger battery for a more balanced power supply. I'm curious if that theory has been proofed. I'm about ready to install my new alternator and have pos and neg going to the drivers side planned, but after seeing this makes me re think this.

 

me too on the tag, greatly impressed with the Technicaol documentation.

I looked at putting the fuse on the alternator output post, and decided NO.
so far, no fuse, risky business, but that alternator is a hoss.

Maybe if it is mounted Upside Down??
look at doing that, I don't have time right now, gotta get ready to go to my son's home in Georgia next week, and my Vacuum system is kayoed... waiting for a new vacuum line for the tank.

Plus the 7-pin connector isn't working, even though the 4-pin does.
and I have to pull a 8k dump trailer to him, it is loaded with stuff.

 

me too on the tag, greatly impressed with the Technical documentation.

I looked at putting the fuse on the alternator output post, and decided NO.
so far, no fuse, risky business, but that alternator is a hoss.

Maybe if it is mounted Upside Down??
look at doing that, I don't have time right now, gotta get ready to go to my son's home in Georgia next week, and my Vacuum system is kayoed... waiting for a new vacuum line for the tank.

 

We have a Tucson 250. Installed it about two (2) years ago. Had to cut a small/straight piece of aluminum for the top anchor and grind a little bit of intake manifold, but other than that, it fits.
We also did the big three (3). In our case, it was the big four (4). I’ve read that you can never have too many ground wires. My father-in-law, who passed away, left me with a bunch of thick copper cable, so I loaded up.
We also had to calculate which Gates belt to use since the pulley is smaller than OEM. We got the green one for daily use and a cheaper model for our back-up.
It’s a brand new alternator. No need to send your old one back.
So far, so good.