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I have a '95 F-150, 5.8 engine. The metal pipe that is part of the heater return hose is shot. Mine is the type that plugs in with a couple O-rings. The pipe itself is available (online only), but the connector that it plugs into seems to be unavailable anywhere. I have two choices- either go with the earlier pipe (Dorman 626-589), which threads into the engine, or MAKE a connector. I do have the equipment and skill, but it would be at least a 1/2 day job. That, and I don't have the exact interior dimensions. Mine is corroded beyond repair. I found a few places online that claim to have successfully used the older, screw-in type pipe. It looks different, especially the brace that bolts on to support it. Anyone have experience with this? I'm a pretty skilled fabricator, so I think I can make it work, but again, I'll have to order the metal pipe. No one seems to stock them in stores. Thanks for any input!
Similar situation to mine. The right pipe doesn't help me because the connector is unavailable. My third option would be to get the new pipe and goop it up with RTV and cross my fingers that it will hold. It looks like I could make one out of a brass hex pipe reducer, just machining out the inside to the proper dimensions, if I can figure them out. Looking at my old one, it appears as though the smaller diameter O-ring seals it, and the upper one pops into a groove to keep it from coming out. The upper one probably isn't intended to seal. If I can use the scew-in pipe, it will save me a lot of trouble, but I'd like to know if it will work on a '95-up 5.8.
Fitting was coroded. I used the previous style Kt-81. It works fine. The routing is slightly different, In front of the EGR vs behind. Iirc, I had to bend the mount to fit the egr mount.
Great! That's exactly what I wanted to see. Looks like the heater hose will reach, too. My old pipe had a pinhole, but it also was leaking around the fitting. When I took it apart, it came out of the fitting in three pieces, and I had to drive them out with a punch. The interior doesn't look like it will seal any more.
Okay, got the new part in. The pipe tap at the top for the temp gauge is tapped too deep, so the probe bottomed out before I could even get the threads started. No problem, I went out to my shop and made a longer adapter. Typical imported Dorman carp. I don't know what people who don't have a machine shop, or the knowledge to use it do.
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