Replacing Engine - Suggestions?
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2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2024
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Replacing Engine - Suggestions?
Due to some low compression I’m replacing the engine in my 01 with a used 250k mile engine. While I have the cab lifted and donor engine on a stand: going to do all seals and gaskets plus manifold & up pipes.
what else should I replace?
what else should I replace?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
I second this. With a quarter million miles on this engine I would also give a close eye to the piston cooling jets while the oil pan is off.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
Agreed with all above.
Pay attention to the oil pan. If it's rusty replace it. Do the weld in dipstick adapter, maybe bed coat it if you can expect rust in your area, and the proper RTV curing procedure on install.
Rebuild the oil cooler. Replace the engine block heater if you are in a cold place. Both cheap insurance.
Get bellowed up pipes and dry fit them on the bench to the turbo before install. I got cheapo Dormans and the alignment pin was fubar, required some grinding.
Pay attention to the oil pan. If it's rusty replace it. Do the weld in dipstick adapter, maybe bed coat it if you can expect rust in your area, and the proper RTV curing procedure on install.
Rebuild the oil cooler. Replace the engine block heater if you are in a cold place. Both cheap insurance.
Get bellowed up pipes and dry fit them on the bench to the turbo before install. I got cheapo Dormans and the alignment pin was fubar, required some grinding.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2024
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yes, engine is from a family members truck that is still running. Title issues is reason I’m parting it
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From: Henderson, NV
You didn't say if this is a ZF6 or 4R100 truck. This is more relevant for a ZF6 truck but do the engine valley rear drainpipe mod. That will keep any leaking fluids from the valley from contaminating the clutch and the inside of the bell housing relatively clean.
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From: Ponca City, OK
I've seen a good handful of front cover leaks roll through this forum over the last year or so. At least 3 were directly under the HPOP making them somewhat of a bear to pinpoint. I'd probably consider a fresh gasket and RTV to avoid potentially having to pull the motor back out in the near future. How about the rest of ya? Worth the price of the gasket set and hour or two it'll take to get out in front of that leak?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 238
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From: Western ny
Flex plate? Helicoil starter bolt holes (deep helicoils for more threads). Oil galley plugs, esp rears. Depending on new engine condition, valve springs and glow plugs. easy when on a stand…. 50 cent mod. Too. Wrapped uppipes and turbo down spout. turbo rebuild. List is endless until you run outta bazooka bucks,
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