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I know there has been a good bit of talk about this, and I am still scratching my head a little. Completely redoing the brake lines on my 77 F150 SWB 4x4, power brakes, disc/drum. As I have already bought all the brake lines for the truck, and the shoddy shape the originals are in, I decided to just do all of the lines and new hoses. I removed the original prop valve, which seems to be good other than corrosion on the outside. I used some brakleen to blow out the front and back sides, followed by compressed air. Is there anyway to test the valve before installing? Also, once installed, what is the proper procedure for bleeding? I purchased the little screw in tool that centers the pin, but I am thinking that this tool was used on the distribution block style for drum/drum. This prop valve has the little pin out the front that I assume you pull out when bleeding. Is the proper procedure to pull the pin, start at RR, then LR, then RF, then LF?
... 77 F150 SWB 4x4 ... Is the proper procedure to pull the pin, start at RR, then LR, then RF, then LF?
How I do my '77 F150 LWB 4x4. Pin is just held out, it does not pull out further.
I use a small pair of vise grips to hold the pin out, but made a slotted clip type tool recently. I'm not sure it's needed for all types of bleeds or just the pump / hold / etc brake way ... but I do it anyway.
Yea, I know it has to be held out by something. Will either use some small visegrips or fashion a tool. Brake light was not on previously, and would like to keep it that way and have good brakes. Onto snaking this rear brake and fuel line down the frame rail. Not looking like it's gonna be fun.
I just used various length sections of tubing off the rack with fittings already in place, put one union (threaded type for brake fittings) about half way, was pretty easy I thought. Anywhere it was close to metal, I put a split piece of hose ion it and a few zip ties where needed to secure. After done, I coated it all in a bunch of clear.
Well, I went with pre-bent lines for brake and fuel to hopefully use the same factory style clips on the frame rail. While the lines are pretty close, they are not near exact and will likely require multiple installations and tweaking to get close.
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