Understanding the fuel system
Where to start?
Has the truck been setting and if so how long?
This could lead to bad gas making it hard to start and run or worst gum up valves making them stick and a rusty tank sending all that to a new carb, not good!
Lets see if the pump pumps shell we?
This fuel pump should be bolted to the motor.
Get a few feet of 5/16 fuel hose as you will need some of it later, and hose clamps to fit the hose.
A small gas can with gas or a can that will sit up on the inner fender.
Remove the fuel line from the tank at the pump and plug it, a bolt works pretty good.
Put the new hose on the pump and maybe a clamp.
Put the other end in the can of gas. Put a little gas down the carb and see if the motor will start and run.
It may start and stall till it can pump gas from the can to carb, if the pump works.
May need a little more gas down carb for it to pull gas from can.
It will either pull gas from can and run or it will not pull and not run.
Pull gas and run is good, no gas, not run not good and the pump needs to be replaced.
Now if the pump dose pump and truck been sitting we need to keep an eye on the oil level.
The pump can be bad and put gas in the oil and the level will go up so watch it.
Once you can get the gas from the can to carb and motor runs we can look at the tank(s)
Do you have a switch on the dash to the right of the HVAC controls for fuel tanks?
Dose the bed have 2 gas filler doors or 1? Someone could have swapped beds and only have 1 filler door.
Where is the tank you have now at, side or rear and do you have a short or long bed truck?
If the truck has been sitting for a bit, say over a year, you may want to replace it.
The old gas can gum up the inside and it can also rust. You can never get the tanks clean enough of the gum or rust and being the tanks are cheap it is best to get anew one and sender.
If you feel brave you can drain any gas in the tank(s) and put fresh gas in just make sure you have a fuel filter between the pump and carb but it will not stop fine rust getting to the carb, ask how I know

If you keep the old tanks replace the old rubber hose from the tanks to the metal lines. It may look good but it can have small cracks that pull in air, not gas, and not leak. Yep had that happen once too.
The new gas blends can also break down the inside of the old hose and block flow, so just replace any old fuel hose.
That thing you said is on the frame rail sounded like a dual tank valve that the switch on the dash works.
If you are sure you have only 1 tank you can take some of that new fuel hose and bypass the valve, Just go from the metal line around the valve to the metal line, If you do have dual tanks and only have funds for 1 tank replace the rear as it may be the larger of the 2 depending on bed size.
You can then bypass the valve and run only the new tank. Replace the other when you can and pipe in the valve after you check it it works.
So with a good tank, fresh gas in it and rubber hoses replaced and fuel pump now ready to pull from the tank see if it will start and run.
You may need to pour a little gas down the carb till it pulls fuel from the tank.
You should be good at this point for fuel to carb if not let us know.
Dave ----

Thanks it is nice to start the day with a laugh

Dave ----
If so, that is the tank selector valve. Even if your truck only has one tank now, it would have originally been equipped with two. Look at the right side of the heater control panel in the cab. Do you see a switch labeled Front and Rear? That's the switch to control which tank is feeding the engine. If you only have one tank now, you can bypass this valve with a short length of hose.
Possibly. Go to page 58 here to see how the switch and control valve is wired:
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1981-evtm.html
The valve is spring-loaded. When the valve is powered, the rear tank is connected. When power is removed from the valve, the front tank is connected. On early models like yours, the front tank is the default position in case the fuse were to blow, etc. (On later models, the rear is default.) So if the valve is trying to draw fuel from a non-existant tank, that could 'splain a lot. The quickest thing for now would be to bypass the valve with a piece of hose. Then see if the pump is able to draw fuel.
You do have to crank on the engine for the fuel pump to work.
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When you blow air into the tank from the line, can you hear bubbles in the fuel filler tube with the gas cap removed ?
Found this for your vacuum lines, https://www.google.com/search?q=1981...t=gws-wiz-serp
The guy's here will have thoughts on that soon. Yes, these trucks are still pretty common around where I live. On the way to my son's house, I drive past a house that has one that's getting a frame off done currently.












