I more vote for a manual choke kit.

 

Thanks for the input. On another positive note , I took the truck to Les Schwab for a safety inspection and to my amazement the tech said there was nothing wrong with the truck. He said all the brakes were new and the only problem was that all four tires had flat spots from sitting which is why it was driving so badly. I think the next important thing to do would be to replace fluids in the trans and diff. They could be bone dry or full of water, who knows. I plan on towing my sandrail to Oregon soon and I'm hoping to find a light weight camper for the truck. I have zero experience with campers. I'm wondering am I asking to much of a 1/2 ton to do a camper and trailer? The trailer weighs about 2500lbs total when loaded and should be about 200-300 lbs at to ball. Should I install helper springs ? I need tires of a certain load rating though I'm not sure which, 6 ply? 8ply ?. Thanks again everyone for all your help, You guys are really nice.

 

Not knowing what your truck, long or short bed, has for drive train (maybe add it in a signiture in used control panel).
I went to first post and did not see motor size but something about dual tank valve and that would be for a 300 six.
What transmission and rear gear? What is the GVWR on the door sticker?

My set up 81 F100 4x2 flare side (short bed) 300 / NP435 (granny 1st) 4sp, 2.75 rear gear 235/75/15 tires, GVWR 4700.
I also have over drive that I can split all the gears making the transmission a 8sp. Empty the some of ratios are to close that it is not worth to split the gear.
Empty I start in 2nd> 3rd> 3rd over> 4th> 4th over. If in traffic or low speed limit zone I may split 2nd to 2nd over as 3rd is to hing a gear for the speed.

I do pull a 20' dual axle enclosed trailer that I would say is about the same weight you will be pulling.
I dont know what the ball weight is but it dose squat a little that it levels the truck out. I do not use a WDH with this trailer as my bars will not fit the trailer A frame but it tows ok with out them for how far I go with it. Yes it has trailer brakes and the truck is set up for them as well.

Because if the 2.75 rear gear pulling the trailer I start in granny 1st> 2nd> 2nd over> 3rd> 3rd over> 4th and that is now at speed limit of the road of 55 MPH.
When hit a hill and need to drop a gear I go back to 3rd over and if need be then 3rd but 3rd over has been good so far.
I have not been on the high way with the trailer so dont know if I would use 4th over but where I pull it to I dont need to go high ways.
I will tell you it takes some time to get up to speed with the 300 and the truck like NP435 transmission but it gets the job done.

For you again not knowing the truck I dont think the ball weight will be an issue.
Measure ball to ground and then hook up just in the drive so you can see what happens but I dont think much.
I take it the rail is on a trailer does it have brakes and if so I would set the truck up with a controller.
Some states say 2500 and above for trailer weight you need trailer brakes.

When you say camper is this a slide in stand up type, a slide in that the top goes up & down or you mean a cap that sits on the bed rails and you have the ribbed floor still showing?
The later dont weigh much, throw a foam pad in for sleeping on and any other things how much do you think will add to the load?
The pop up top slide in will weigh a little more as there is more to it but you dont have the big frontal area above the cab pushing thru the air.
This can help MPG and you are not using more HP other than the weight.
A full size slide in may be a little much for the truck even with helper springs. DO NOT get the ones that go over the shocks as the shock mounts are not built to handle loads. Air bags would be the way I would go if the rear needed a little help to support the added weight.

Tires I listed what I run but think if I was going to load the bed more I would go for a LT (light truck) tire.
I dont know if that would be a 6 ply or what? I dont think you would need a 8 ply rated tire.
But figure what your GVWR is and the weight you will have loaded and check with the tire store what they say.


FYI I have pulled all kinds of trailers, small pop ups to 2 car open deck. with all kinds of different pullers 2 different vans, full size Blazer, Durango and now my pickup. Family had cars to pull travel trailers. I have also driven tow trucks and just retired driving trailer trucks tanker & bulk.
Other than that I got nothing else.


Dave ----

 

Yes, unless you get a VERY light camper.

My truck is the F250HD 8600 GVW version. With the camper on the back, loaded with gear, it comes to 8599.5 pounds total. Not a lot of excess capacity to spare. The truck is a factory Camper Special with sway bars front and rear. Empty it rides like a dump truck but smooths out considerably with weight in back. Tires are load range E and set me back like $1800 for a set of four. If you put that kind of weight on a half-ton, you'd be seriously overloaded and it would sway like crazy, too. Even if you beef up the suspension, the brakes are still going to be a limiting factor.



This is a fairly light camper, too. It's not some monster with pull-outs and its own zip code.

You might be able to get away with something like a Palomino pop-up:



I used to have a similar model with my truck. Much less wind resistance on the road, and a lower center of gravity for better handling. However, even though it was easy to raise and lower, it got to be a pain after a while, especially if you just wanted to hop in back at a rest stop, for example. I also didn't like having the soft sides and always worried about critters clawing their way through in search of food.

 

The other thing after seeing what Karl posted is rear overhang.
With a full size slide in and large over hang how will the trailer hitch work out?
Even with the pop up the tail gate is down because of the over hang. Again hitch and will the gate clear the trailer?
2500 lb trailer needs a frame mounted hitch.

Why is that pop up not all the way forward?
Then it looks like you could maybe close the gate or take it off and use the hitch if need be?
Dave ----

 

Sorry i wasn't clear early on but the truck is a 1982 f-150 2wd, standard cab, long bed, inline 6 and manual trans. I don't know what the rear end is. I do know 1st and second gears are real short then 3/4 stretch out a bit. It might do 65mph with a slight downhill assist. Good info guys , you confirmed my suspicion that this truck probably should not do a camper and trailer. No big deal I'll just keep using the tent for now. I used to pull this trailer/buggy setup with an Astro van w/no trailer brakes and I never had any issues. I think this f-150 will be even better at towing though. I does drive just like a tractor. I got the choke conversion kit today and should be able to put it in this weekend. Any tips on that project would be great. Another project I'm considering taking on is windshield replacement. Around here all the shops want $500 plus to do the job . The windshield itself is only $129. The whole job should take them about 60-90 minutes max so they are demanding alot it seems. Anyways the part that looks difficult is removing the metal trim around the glass. That trim on this truck is in decent shape and would hate to destroy it. Anyone have any experience with this project?

 

On the transmission I am guessing you have a granny 1st gear so you start in 2nd when empty?
Yes the spread between 3rd & 4th is pretty wide that is where my over drive splitter shines the most.
If you can post a picture of the stick and the door sticker so we can decode what the truck has.

My parts truck had a SROD and I knew it was not a good trans for pulling loads of the weight I want to pull.
First is not low enough, 4th a over drive and it is kind of weak trans.

I think a cap or topper some call it would be fine as they are not that much weight and to get you up off the ground.
They are a lot drier if it rains, nothing worst than packing up a wet tent.

As for trailer brakes once you have a trailer with them you will never go back to one with out brakes.
If the trailer has them then setting up the truck is easy.
You want a proportional controller not a timed type.
Pig tail to plug into it so you can wire it to the truck.
Some wire I run 10 ga blue to the rear as that is the color for trailer brakes. 12 ga white (ground) and black (power) and the red goes to the brake light switch.
Mount as per the paper is not hard, I have done a few over the years.
Tie it into the trailer light plug, 7 blade type and you are done.

If the truck is not set up with trailer light wires / plug get the Tee that fits between the frame rail harness and the tail light harness.
This Tee gives you the tail light pig tail with out the need to cut into or use them blue taps to any harness wire.
My parts truck came with a Tee that had a flat 4 end. I cut the end off and ran the wires into the 7 blade female connector along with the blue brake wire and a 10 ga 12 volt wire to charge a battery on the trailer that campers have.
You can get all the needed part from Etrailer.com

The windshield get tricky if you have never done glass before and as you found out it starts with the molding.
There is a tool with a hook at the end that slips between the glass and molding. You hook the molding clip and pull it forward a little to release the molding, work to the next and do the same till all released and can remove the moldings. Note there are 2 different types of clips used and where they are used at.

Now even trickier is removing the glass. Factory glass use Butyl Tape and by this time is old and hard. They make a tool you slip the blade between the tape and the glass and pull on the handle to cut the glass free. if you twist the blade you will crack the glass. Once cut free with 2 people lift the glass out.
Cut / clean any old tape left on the pinch weld off. Now you get to fix any rust that is found and paint the repair area.

Now I am told all shops by law have to glue the glass back in like new cars are from the factory. This is done for crash safety as the glass is part of the people protection area. In the old cars & trucks it was not (remember the tape you cut?) and they flex that could lead to cracked glass I am told.
I went back with Butyl tape on my truck as I was doing the install. It comes in 2 different thinknesses (5/16" & 3/8"IIRC) but I dont remember what one I used think 3/8? The tape you can get on line or auto body supply store.

Make sure the pinch weld is clean like you would eat off it. Run the tape around on the pinch weld. Dont get it to close to the body as the glass will not reach it.
The tape kit should have 2 rubber blocks place them at the bottom. There should have been old ones.
Clean the edge of the glass again so you can eat off it.

DO NOT TOUCH THE EDGE WHERE THE TAPE WILL LAY FROM HERE ON OUT!
Here is the fun part you and a helper need to pick the glass up and place it in WITH OUT TOUCHING THE EDGE.
Note once the glass touches the tape you can not pull it back up or move the glass IT IS STUCK WHERE IT IS!
Go around and press the glass down into the tape to make a good seal. You should be able to see it seal.
Reinstall the molding and wipers and you are done.

I think the rear glass that is set in rubber might be a little easier to remove and install but I have done all this before in a body shop, have the tools so it was nothing for me to do. I had to get help installing the front but did pull it my self. I pulled and installed the rear myself.
To tell the truth if you have not done glass work before I would leave it to the pros.
I have not done any of the glue type glass so cant help with that.
Dave ----

 

I haven't done a windshield but when I have had them done it was covered under insurance. I had to pay the 100 buck deductible. The shop glues it in as Dave mentioned. They used suction handles on the glass to lift it out with and to place the new glass. Once I had the glass shop come to my house. Two guys replaced my windshield in about 15 minutes. They knew what they were doing. One caution is try to get a windshield for the 80-86 years. Yes the 87+ windshield will fit perfectly but the black trim film in the glass will cover your VIN number. If you need that open for licencing or inspection the later years windshield may be an issue. If that's all you can get then I recommend taking a photo of your VIN while the glass is out. I currently have the later version and you cannot read the VIN at the bottom of the windshield. That was the only one the glass shop had available at the time.

 

On your choke, I have never done a six, so you might not have any trouble. Usually the place to get through the firewall without too much hassle is around the steering column where the large piece of rubber is around it. I usually mount the **** under the dash on the right side of the steering wheel. You then have to snake the cable to the left a little bit, go through by the steering column, and then go up behind the engine on a v8, and get on the pass side of the carb on a v8. This puts a lot of bends in the cable and it can be difficult or become difficult to operate after it's out in the elements for awhile. If the six carb sets sideways and you do not have to make that last 90, it would be much improved.

The last one I did, I did a lot of research and found a spot right behind the choke on the firewall and drilled a hole. You have to sneak past the ventilation system. I then mounted the **** under the dash, but I mounted it at a 45 degree angle toward the driver. So the curve it made from the **** to the firewall hole was very gentle. So it ended up right at the choke, and the cable was way too long. I then cut the cable just past the choke, and then took and unwound the outside spring to expose the inner wire of the cable and hooked it up. This was the best operating manual choke I have ever done. The cable was really short with only one significant bend in it. This was for a v8, but if you keep the same theme it will work well.

Experiment with it, live with it, and then experiment with it some more to get it just right.

 

All the choke **** I've had were mounted on the opposite side of the key operating side. Since the key was always operated right handed the choke **** was left side.

I'd usually pull the choke out half when cold and crank the engine. If it didn't fire off right away I'd continue to pull out the choke till it fired up. Then slowly push it back in keeping the engine running smooth.

I'd try for a left side mounting on our trucks since key is on the right hand. I haven't done one on an F series.

 

I have found it too crowded on the left side to mount. And if you leave the choke pull-off hooked up and it's working, the manual choke works great. You can pull it fully on, and once you get down the road you can push it halfway in, and then later all the way in.

 

On my truck there seems to be room between the wiper switch and steering column in the dash, but it could be busy behind. It might take some arranging for sure. Or do an under dash mount. I wonder if there is a kit for the F series?

 

I'll dive in this weekend. Thanks every one.

 

Good catch on the glass and VIN.
I put my old glass back in as it was still good so did not have the issue.
Dave ----

 

Just an update: The choke installation was super simple, it seems to be working now. I went for a longer drive and learned that the heater core was bad as well as the blower motor.. Over the weekend I replaced those parts plus the belts and hoses, temp sensor and misc. Got some heavy duty tires installed also. Today I'm going to the junk yard to find a tow hitch. So far everything seems to be coming together with this truck. I really appreciate everyone's input . Thank you.