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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Understanding the fuel system

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Old Sep 9, 2024 | 11:23 AM
  #91  
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Thanks for keeping us updated.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 04:53 AM
  #92  
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Ok here's a new question. When I was pulling this class 3 receiver hitch off an old truck at pick-n-pull I found steel blocks had been installed between the receiver and the frame. They are about 3/8" thick and one at each bolt location (6 total). I can't imagine this would strengthen anything and it would be a weird way to adjust the height of the receiver a tiny bit so what are they for?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 05:02 AM
  #93  
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Oh and Here's another question. This truck has 4 fan belts, 2 twin belts for alt/water pump i think, one belt for power steering and and one belt for what looks like a smog pump or a/c compressor right at the top of the engine on the passenger side. I'm pretty sure this truck never had a/c so probably smog. Can I delete this? If so is there more to do than just removing the belt? Thanks .
 
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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 05:58 AM
  #94  
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Be careful. The alternator has a dual pulley usually, but this is for a very short belt that goes from it to the smog pump. I have never seen one of these trucks with two long belts running the alternator. If you do it, make double dog sure the big pulley grooves on the crankshaft pulley are exactly the same size. Many times they are not.

On the hitch, if your frame is flat on the bottom, the large square washers are to be put on top of the frame rail. As you can see the frame is very thin. They use these washers to spread the load out on a larger portion of the frame rail. Sounds like someone who put that hitch on that you took off did not read the instructions, and installed the washers under the frame rail.

Some frames are not flat on the bottom, in that case they usually include thinner washers to act as shims only on certain holes. Those would go under the frame rail.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 07:55 AM
  #95  
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Only one belt for ALT. Smog pump removed.


I'll go out in a few and take pictures of how my hitch is mounted. Surprised I didn't have them already.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 08:18 AM
  #96  
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Maybe your truck is different from mine, I don't see any blocks. This was from a junkyard too about 12 years ago.






 
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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 10:04 AM
  #97  
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Mine is a "fit all trucks" hitch and IIRC used a washer between the hitch and frame on each side to level it out.

I was making a flare side tail light harness from a style side harness. Style side is laid out on the floor.
You can see the trailer light harness / pigtail wrapped around the hitch.
It Tee's in between the frame rail & tail light harness, no need to cut & splice wires, and I wired it into a 7 flat blade trailer plug.

Truck is also set up with trailer brakes and to charge a battery on the trailer if the trailer is wired to do so.
I carry a 7 flat blade to flat 4 adapter if I have to pull something like a U-haul trailer.
Dave ----
 
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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 03:26 PM
  #98  
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You can see how thin the frame is. If something happened I guess they figured that bolt with just a small washer and nut could possibly pull through the frame. If you do not have any, you could simply make some large rectangle washers out of 1/4 stock by cutting it and drilling the proper size hole.

Sort of the same theory as the washers on the valve cover bolts some vehicles have.

 
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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 05:11 PM
  #99  
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Yeah, I did the large washer idea when I drilled holes in the floor of our 40ft trailer for extra tie downs and used the largest washers I could find under the nut.

 
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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 02:51 AM
  #100  
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That makes total sense to use the block to keep the bolt from pulling through the frame. I'll put it in that way. Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 02:55 AM
  #101  
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Question for Max capacity. So was that a smog pump you deleted there? Why would the heater core water lines be attached to that? Is it necessary to remove the pump and join the tubes like you did? Should I just leave it alone or is there any benefit to deleting it? Thank you.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 03:06 AM
  #102  
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My belt setup


This is my config.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 07:43 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by crazytestpilot
Question for Max capacity. So was that a smog pump you deleted there? Why would the heater core water lines be attached to that? Is it necessary to remove the pump and join the tubes like you did? Should I just leave it alone or is there any benefit to deleting it? Thank you.
There seams to be no reason how the belts are run between years. At first I thought it was with AC or with out AC but I dont see anything for AC on MAX truck so
But if the air pump is driven by 1 belt and that belt dose not drive anything else I dont see why it cant be removed?

On the hose and the Tee that is how the throttle body gets heated.
On carb motors hot exh passes under the intake manifold from 1 side to the other by a valve on 1 side of the exh manifold / Y pipe.
On the 300 six motors the exh manifold is bolted to the bottom of the intake and a valve directs hot air to the manifold till up to temp like the v8 carb motors.

I run EFI exh manifolds on my 300 six so to get heat to the intake I pipe hot water to it like the EFI v8 motors do.
Heated intakes keeps the air / fuel mix in a vapor other wise the fuel condenses and drops out of the air and the motor runs like crap / flooded.
Dave ----
 
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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 11:00 AM
  #104  
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My heater hoses are in the stock location, that T goes up to the throttle body. There's another line out the bottom of TB.

The unused pulley on my ALT, drove the smog pump. If I remember right, its been a while.

Notice the pulleys from this side.

 
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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 05:08 PM
  #105  
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When I got my first Ford years ago, I thought that was a pretty hokey way to drive the smog pump. You try to adjust the alternator belt, but that affects the belt to the smog pump? And the poor bearing on the alternator has to support tension from the long belt and tension up from the short belt to the smog pump. But they did it like that for years on many vehicles so I guess it works. You can tell like all the other emissions devices, they are just sort of tacked on at the last minute to pass a emissions certification.
 
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