Recently, the switches for my front door windows and the mirrors quit working. I'm hoping / not hoping someone else has encountered this issue and can't provide some insight.
First here is what I have: Last spring, I purchased a 2019 F350 XL diesel crew cab and chassis cab. It has the typical flat bed on it. It had 83000 miles and before I could drive it home (3500 mile trip) it needed the injectors replaced. Fast forward about 9 months. The BCM failed. I got it fixed (local Ford dealership). Truck ran great and I was nearing the end of my power train warranty. I did a partial delete and I took out the factory am/fm stereo and put in an aftermarket touch screen. The truck continued to run great.
About 2 months ago the front door windows stopped working. As did the unlock button. (The lock button never work since I got it and it did not light up). The power mirrors quick working as well. This all happened a few weeks after the mods so I have a hard time believing they are related.
just prior to the failures I got some DTCs. I'll attach a picture of the codes.
So after researching this issue this is what I have done. I bought a new door module. While the front windows would not work and the mirrors and locks, the rear windows do work. All the other windows work correctly with their associated switch. The locks work from the passenger side as does the remote.
Before switching out the module, I hooked up forscan and the module isn't listed. I swapped module and still it doesn't show. With the new module, the rear windows work like with the older module. I don't see any damaged wiring. I checked all the fuses.
So I'm kind of at a stand still. The Ford dealer is backed up for months and they probably wont touch it cause of the delete anyway. Any ideas?

 

When you replaced the DDM did you reload your AsBuilt data ?

ZooDad

 

I was trying to but forscan doesn't show the module DDM but it does show the PDM. Hence my problem, I think.

 

I really thought there would be more of a response. Based on my research thus far, this seems like a common issue.
Here's some additional info with some further troubleshooting. So as I think I all ready mentioned both the new and old DDMs are doing the exact same thing. I checked for power at the module - nothing. Checked for continuity from there to the connector in the door jamb. It was good. From there, there are two red power wires. One goes thru the firewall (which at the connectors in the engine bay where it comes thru the firewall there is no continuing). The other red wire goes under the plastic door jamb and under the driver's seat. I haven't been able to check that yet.
So it appears there is a short but without any wiring diagrams that dont cost 100 to 300 dollars, im not sure what direction to go. Im leaning towards running a wire straight to the DDM just to see if the functions will work.

Still looking for suggestions.

 

Had my 19 since new….

just this month after a rain…window wouldn’t work, key pad wouldn’t work, dash said door was open when the door was closed.


it stopped when the door insides dried out.


i think I might have a connector that needs electrolytic grease.

 

have you found an issue yet mines doing the same thing and been to four dealerships

 

I'm having the same issue. Driver door switch only operates the back two windows and nothing else, back widows do not work from their own switches, driver door lock does not work, and the passenger door works perfect. Tried a new switch and it did nothing. Hopefully someone figured something out.

 

so I had a recurring issue with my DDM, this was years ago not sure this will help anyone. when my truck was under warranty the dealer replaced the module, didnt fix it. they had it for multiple days trying to trace the issue, the tech eventually blamed it on a loose pin in the drivers door harness plug. Then about 2 years later the issue showed up again. the module would stop working if the truck got hot or i had the heat on the floor going. So i pulled door connector apart and made sure all the pins were seated. still had the issue, when i would go to use window switches they would actually make a weird noise before all the controls would get locked out. only rear windows would work everything else dead. So I hooked up forscan and opened up the PID for the DDM and monitored voltage. When i truned the heat on the floor i could see a slow decline in voltage to the module then i could turn on the ac and see it go right back up to normal. so the low voltace was making the module not function correctly. so I pulled the wiring diagrams and traced the main power supply to the passenger side of the truck by the kick panel where the fuse block and BCM. So my assumption is the tech unplugged and plugged back in this connector and he not knowingly fixed the issue of a loose connector then thought it was because of the door plug instead. This time I actually bent the inside of the connector so i made a tighter connection. retested voltage with forscan and that was the issue. the plug didn't effect anything else in the truck and that module must be very sensitive since it runs the motor to the power window regulator and already you see a voltage drop when you press the switch. Anyway not sure my experience will help anyone but ill go take a picture of the connector that caused me looking like an idiot every time i went through a drive through.

 

Due to life, it has taken me up till today to continue working on this issue. I, the OP of this post, has solved the problem. This is my final story.

I had determined the DDM just wasn't getting any power. During the last two days, i removed the seats and center console and carpet. I had planned to do this anyway to get things really clean. And let me say, I am glad I did. There was basically mud pack under the kick plates on both sides, which im sure didn't help my issue.

The DDM power wire goes from the door into the cab. It turns toward the rear and runs under the kick plate, then under the driver seat, center console, and front passenger seat. It then heads under the passenger side kick plate and to the BCM.

I verified power at the BCM and then started checking each section of wire for continuity. The longest section of wire, that runs under the seats, lacked continuity. I started removing the tape from this section, starting at the parking brake. Lucky for me, the issue was only about a foot away. Whether factory or aftermarket, I know not, but a small gauge wire had been spliced into the power supply wire. They had completely corroded and separated.

I made a better than factory splice and tested the DDM controls. Hallelujah they work again! Now it is time to put everything back together. Ill tell you, having windows that are damn near tinted black is a pia in the winter in Alaska. Sure is nice to be able to roll them down again. I took a couple of pictures. I'll try to attach them.

 

have you figured it out?