Calling on AC experts
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 525
Likes: 274
From: Kansas
So I am going to contradict myself. Once I started looking at the system to find part numbers for the high/low switches IT HIT ME. I never replaced the low pressure switch because the day I received the new switch, it was wrong and I needed to charge the system.
I reinstalled the old low pressure switch because I could not find one with my VIN or local dealer was perplexed.
I read the old number off the current switch plus using Jack's valuable info he always passes on to people and confirmed the number is 95BW-19E561-AA.
I ordered the pigtail for that switch, plus an OEM low pressure switch.
I have been digging deep. The blend door is working fine but I ordered the actuator just to try it and it is pretty cheap. The vacuum system is leak free and I am going to zip tie the heater valve shut through the summer....just to make sure.
One dumb question. Does the low pressure switch have a schrader valve so the system does not require to be evacuated?
I recall one of the switches is schradered but I cannot recall which one.
thanks
Joe
I reinstalled the old low pressure switch because I could not find one with my VIN or local dealer was perplexed.
I read the old number off the current switch plus using Jack's valuable info he always passes on to people and confirmed the number is 95BW-19E561-AA.
I ordered the pigtail for that switch, plus an OEM low pressure switch.
I have been digging deep. The blend door is working fine but I ordered the actuator just to try it and it is pretty cheap. The vacuum system is leak free and I am going to zip tie the heater valve shut through the summer....just to make sure.
One dumb question. Does the low pressure switch have a schrader valve so the system does not require to be evacuated?
I recall one of the switches is schradered but I cannot recall which one.
thanks
Joe
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,422
Likes: 938
From: Fort Worth, TX
Both high and low pressure switches should have schrader valves beneath them. Even if that wasn't the case, you wouldn't loose much charge by slowly unscrewing the switch to see if it stops leaking after a few seconds.
Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 56
Likes: 7
I'm guessing most gauge sets have a similar design, but both main gauges should be closed when you put the low and high side gauges on the service ports. I'm not sure if you can do anything about the refrigerant that goes into the gauge set lines when checking pressures, but that loss should be immaterial.
51m and 1h5m into the above video might become relevant at some point. At the 51m mark he talks about the importance of knowing where your check valves are and at 1h5m shows how to minimize refrigerant loss when filling the system.
51m and 1h5m into the above video might become relevant at some point. At the 51m mark he talks about the importance of knowing where your check valves are and at 1h5m shows how to minimize refrigerant loss when filling the system.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 873
Excellent thank you. I know that when you charge the system, the yellow line has some residual as the red line. Close the source, close the red, leave the blue open and keep running it. Open the red and it supposedly goes into the system.
I'll try it and see what heppens
I'll try it and see what heppens
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,422
Likes: 938
From: Fort Worth, TX
You can purge the residual in the yellow line by unscrewing the hose at the manifold enough to get refrigerant leaking out.
And you should never charge the system on the high pressure side.
And you should never charge the system on the high pressure side.
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