Basic things to remember / provide in troubleshooting process
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,792
Likes: 3,542
Basic things to remember / provide in troubleshooting process
This will be a list of some simple, but important, things to remember (and provide to us) in troubleshooting.
This will be ONLY the basic starting points for an "I need help thread". I am trying to make this easier to use for even a first time forum user (new 6.0L owner).
I will make this a TWO-PART process (initial basic steps, then the data based testing). Each of the two parts will have additional/multiple things listed within them.
I. INITIAL BASIC (first category) STEPS:
https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/...1411103/unread
Before anything else, we need to know what model year engine you have .... and if it is a 2004, then we need to know where the ICP sensor is located. Ask for help on this if you need to! Then we need to know all about the truck:
Next - check the basics:
Next, a few (somewhat) specific 6.0L things to check.
.
1. Battery voltage is important. Processors can quit working properly if the voltage gets too low. Static battery voltage is not an indication of a good battery. A battery can have the appropriate voltage at rest, and then not be able to supply proper current (amps). Also - even new batteries can be bad. 12.6-12.7 volts indicates a full charge, but a load test is the critical step! Cranking battery voltage should be AT LEAST be 10 volts (absolute minimum), but preferably 10.5v ..... and more is better, up to full charge voltage anyway! Charge and load test the batteries individually before troubleshooting - PLEASE!!
.
2. Aftermarket filters are a problem. Just get OEM filters - period. Buy from a dealership (on-line dealerships are cheaper) or from DieselFiltersOnLine ($250 there and you get free shipping - brings the overall price down a bunch, and easy to get to $250 now days!). So if you haven't paid attention to filters in the past, start looking into what a counterfeit or aftermarket filters would look like. ALSO - the absolute worst combination is a tall aftermarket oil filter cap with an OEM oil filter. This will severely reduce any oil flow in the system because the oil filter housing drain valve will not get closed. We REALLY need a pic of the top of your engine to be posted, so we can help identify this possible issue!
In fact, aftermarket parts in general can be a big problem. Stick with OEM parts from reputable suppliers (note- there are a few specific cases where aftermarket parts are better, such as early HPOPs and EGR coolers). On-line dealerships like Tasca and AutoNation White Bear Lake (now Apple Ford) are good examples of reputable suppliers. They give 15% discounts. Other shops can have great pricing too, but you need to compare prices that include the cost of shipping (Riff Raff, CNCFab, DieselFiltersOnLine, BulletProofDiesel, Full Force Diesel, KC Turbo, are some other examples of great places to buy parts).
.
3. Also, part of the basic fuel system checks, is verifying fuel delivery. Checking this is a two person job so that a mess in the engine compartment is avoided (housing will fill quickly!). The fuel pump turns on with simply turning the key on. That said, unless the engine is running, the fuel pump will come on with a timer (about 20 seconds) as a safety design (fyi only). After checking the things in the paragraph above, verify fuel flow:
4. LASTLY (for this section) - Does the dash oil pressure "gauge" come up when cranking?
AGAIN - get the above information together if you want good help!
.
.
.
.
.
II. Moving on to (second category) DATA Collection. THIS SECTION REQUIRES THE USE OF A SCAN TOOL AND CONTAINS DIRECTIONS THAT WILL INVOLVE A BIT MORE "6.0L SPECIFIC" KNOWLEDGE THAN THE SECTION ABOVE. IT IS STILL CRITICAL FOR SUCCESSFUL TROUBLESHOOTING OF MOST 6.0L ISSUES:
1. Checking for codes with a GOOD scan tool is essential. Not all scan tools will pull all the codes that are actually in the PCM. A quality scan tool is not expensive at all. ForScan Lite and Torque Pro downloads (with the OBDII adapter) are not expensive. Reading engine data (PID values) is also very important. Most scan tools do an adequate job of PID reading, but not code reading. This is why FORScan and Torque Pro are specifically mentioned - they read codes well! The full version of FORScan on a Windows laptop is VERY powerful, but perhaps not everyone will want/need that power!
SO: read the codes, write down the code numbers, and then when you post in a forum, provide these code numbers in your post!
2. Cranking rpms are important. Fueling commands won't occur below 100 rpm, and functionally 150 rpm or more is required for a reliable start (because of the need for good cylinder compression, high pressure oil pressure, etc).
3. A minimum ICP pressure of 500 psig is required for FICM Sync. HOWEVER, under certain circumstances the PCM will ASSUME a proper ICP value. It is CRUCIAL to watch ICP sensor voltage output. A minimum voltage of approximately 0.8V is required. This voltage will tell you whether or not the PCM is assuming a false ICP pressure value.
4. There are TWO Syncs. One is Cam/Crank Sync and the other is FICM Sync. Both are required before the engine will start. It is entirely possible to have FICM Sync without Cam/Crank SYNC contrary to what many seem to think. The rpm value is a critical factor in troubleshooting SYNC issues.
5. The early HPOPs ('03 and '04) are significantly less reliable than the later HPOPs ('05 and up). ALL '03's and '04's have the round aluminum HPOP. The reliable HPOPs (cast iron) did not get installed until the '05 model year. The confusion seems to be because the late '04's have the wavy oil rail and the newer standpipes and dummy plugs. This is possible because the late '04's have their very own unique branch tubes!
6. We (forum resources) can provide quite a bit of help for folks having problems. That said, we absolutely need GOOD COMMUNICATION! Details matter! Pictures can be a big help also! Also, please be VERY WARY with shops - even dealerships. Even if you have to take the truck to a shop, we can provide you with guidance that can POSSIBLY help you avoid the potential of excessive and unnecessary repair costs. The more you know, the better equipped you will be to recognize if/when the shop is taking advantage of you.
7. When troubleshooting a no-start, many people have read on the Internet that disconnecting the ICP sensor can possibly enable you to start the engine. This can only help when you have a problem with the ICP sensor itself. It will not help at all if you actually have a problem with developing sufficient pressure in the high pressure oil system. Also, remember - trying to start with the ICP sensor disconnected WILL THROW A P2285 code. Often times people think that this code means a failed ICP sensor or bad wiring to the ICP sensor when it really is due solely to the attempted start with the sensor unplugged.
8. It is important to have functional glow plugs. Many people think glow plugs are an unimportant supplementary part of the engine functionality. While this can sometimes be true, just bite the bullet and FIX the failed components if you have glow plug codes/issues.
9. You might as well post up what oil you are running (viscosity grade), along with how old it is (miles and engine hours).
10. There are a lot more tests that can be done based on your specific needs. The more information you can pull together (and post) on your issue, the more quickly we can get specific information to you!!
.
Data to collect before posting:
(provide this information when you do decide to start a thread):
.
Vehicle Info Input:
Symptoms (Describe):
Operating Conditions:ESPECIALLY If it is a Crank No-Start, begin by filling in the data requested below:
KOEO:
Media Input Photos - Pictures of top of engine are really helpful at times!
Videos - A video of cranking data sometimes is a big help also! It may require posting the video to YouTube and then posting the link in your thread.
These are goods thread on troubleshooting a no-start:
.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html
.
This will be ONLY the basic starting points for an "I need help thread". I am trying to make this easier to use for even a first time forum user (new 6.0L owner).
I will make this a TWO-PART process (initial basic steps, then the data based testing). Each of the two parts will have additional/multiple things listed within them.
I. INITIAL BASIC (first category) STEPS:
https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/...1411103/unread
Before anything else, we need to know what model year engine you have .... and if it is a 2004, then we need to know where the ICP sensor is located. Ask for help on this if you need to! Then we need to know all about the truck:
- ANY recent work done,
- What parts were replaced,
- Where the parts came from if parts were replaced,
- And a detailed discussion on what is wrong.
Next - check the basics:
- Check the oil level. If it is too low OR too high, then you might have an issue. If it is too high, smell the oil on the dipstick. It might be fuel diluted and this can cause a no start.
- Then check the fuel tank level.
- Then check the air filter "filter minder". Does it indicate that the air filter is plugged? Wouldn't hurt to pull and inspect the air filter.
- Then, remove the WIF (Water in Fuel) drain plug in the HFCM (Primary Fuel Filter ). Drain a half dozen ounces in a glass jar (or clear container) so you can visually inspect the fuel quality. Does it contain any sludge, dirt, or water? Let us know when the last time oil, fuel and air filters were changed (hopefully you know that!).
Next, a few (somewhat) specific 6.0L things to check.
.
1. Battery voltage is important. Processors can quit working properly if the voltage gets too low. Static battery voltage is not an indication of a good battery. A battery can have the appropriate voltage at rest, and then not be able to supply proper current (amps). Also - even new batteries can be bad. 12.6-12.7 volts indicates a full charge, but a load test is the critical step! Cranking battery voltage should be AT LEAST be 10 volts (absolute minimum), but preferably 10.5v ..... and more is better, up to full charge voltage anyway! Charge and load test the batteries individually before troubleshooting - PLEASE!!
.
2. Aftermarket filters are a problem. Just get OEM filters - period. Buy from a dealership (on-line dealerships are cheaper) or from DieselFiltersOnLine ($250 there and you get free shipping - brings the overall price down a bunch, and easy to get to $250 now days!). So if you haven't paid attention to filters in the past, start looking into what a counterfeit or aftermarket filters would look like. ALSO - the absolute worst combination is a tall aftermarket oil filter cap with an OEM oil filter. This will severely reduce any oil flow in the system because the oil filter housing drain valve will not get closed. We REALLY need a pic of the top of your engine to be posted, so we can help identify this possible issue!
In fact, aftermarket parts in general can be a big problem. Stick with OEM parts from reputable suppliers (note- there are a few specific cases where aftermarket parts are better, such as early HPOPs and EGR coolers). On-line dealerships like Tasca and AutoNation White Bear Lake (now Apple Ford) are good examples of reputable suppliers. They give 15% discounts. Other shops can have great pricing too, but you need to compare prices that include the cost of shipping (Riff Raff, CNCFab, DieselFiltersOnLine, BulletProofDiesel, Full Force Diesel, KC Turbo, are some other examples of great places to buy parts).
.
3. Also, part of the basic fuel system checks, is verifying fuel delivery. Checking this is a two person job so that a mess in the engine compartment is avoided (housing will fill quickly!). The fuel pump turns on with simply turning the key on. That said, unless the engine is running, the fuel pump will come on with a timer (about 20 seconds) as a safety design (fyi only). After checking the things in the paragraph above, verify fuel flow:
- Remove the secondary fuel filter cap and filter.
- Remove any standing fuel level (you want the housing empty for the test).
- Have your helper turn the key on to start fuel pump operation, while you watch the housing fill.
- Verify a healthy flow of fuel into the secondary fuel filter housing.
- If desired (it can be helpful), measure the time that it takes to actually fill the housing. It should be apprx. 5-6 seconds, and MAKE SURE the helper can turn the key of immediately when told to (before the housing overflows)!
4. LASTLY (for this section) - Does the dash oil pressure "gauge" come up when cranking?
- The pressure in the low pressure oil system (base oil system) is important. It only takes 5-7 psig for the dash gauge to go to the middle position. This gauge, is actually just a switch, but it activates on the absolute bare-minimum pressure, so if the gauge doesn't move, it is important to post that information.
- It is also good to remove the oil filter and have someone crank while you "time" how many seconds it takes to fill the oil filter housing. Have your helper ready to stop cranking when you give the signal (mess prevention). You can time it with the drain valve open (apprx 12 second fill), and you can time it when pressing the drain valve down/closed (apprx. 5-6 second fill).
AGAIN - get the above information together if you want good help!
.
.
.
.
.
II. Moving on to (second category) DATA Collection. THIS SECTION REQUIRES THE USE OF A SCAN TOOL AND CONTAINS DIRECTIONS THAT WILL INVOLVE A BIT MORE "6.0L SPECIFIC" KNOWLEDGE THAN THE SECTION ABOVE. IT IS STILL CRITICAL FOR SUCCESSFUL TROUBLESHOOTING OF MOST 6.0L ISSUES:
1. Checking for codes with a GOOD scan tool is essential. Not all scan tools will pull all the codes that are actually in the PCM. A quality scan tool is not expensive at all. ForScan Lite and Torque Pro downloads (with the OBDII adapter) are not expensive. Reading engine data (PID values) is also very important. Most scan tools do an adequate job of PID reading, but not code reading. This is why FORScan and Torque Pro are specifically mentioned - they read codes well! The full version of FORScan on a Windows laptop is VERY powerful, but perhaps not everyone will want/need that power!
SO: read the codes, write down the code numbers, and then when you post in a forum, provide these code numbers in your post!
2. Cranking rpms are important. Fueling commands won't occur below 100 rpm, and functionally 150 rpm or more is required for a reliable start (because of the need for good cylinder compression, high pressure oil pressure, etc).
3. A minimum ICP pressure of 500 psig is required for FICM Sync. HOWEVER, under certain circumstances the PCM will ASSUME a proper ICP value. It is CRUCIAL to watch ICP sensor voltage output. A minimum voltage of approximately 0.8V is required. This voltage will tell you whether or not the PCM is assuming a false ICP pressure value.
4. There are TWO Syncs. One is Cam/Crank Sync and the other is FICM Sync. Both are required before the engine will start. It is entirely possible to have FICM Sync without Cam/Crank SYNC contrary to what many seem to think. The rpm value is a critical factor in troubleshooting SYNC issues.
5. The early HPOPs ('03 and '04) are significantly less reliable than the later HPOPs ('05 and up). ALL '03's and '04's have the round aluminum HPOP. The reliable HPOPs (cast iron) did not get installed until the '05 model year. The confusion seems to be because the late '04's have the wavy oil rail and the newer standpipes and dummy plugs. This is possible because the late '04's have their very own unique branch tubes!
6. We (forum resources) can provide quite a bit of help for folks having problems. That said, we absolutely need GOOD COMMUNICATION! Details matter! Pictures can be a big help also! Also, please be VERY WARY with shops - even dealerships. Even if you have to take the truck to a shop, we can provide you with guidance that can POSSIBLY help you avoid the potential of excessive and unnecessary repair costs. The more you know, the better equipped you will be to recognize if/when the shop is taking advantage of you.
7. When troubleshooting a no-start, many people have read on the Internet that disconnecting the ICP sensor can possibly enable you to start the engine. This can only help when you have a problem with the ICP sensor itself. It will not help at all if you actually have a problem with developing sufficient pressure in the high pressure oil system. Also, remember - trying to start with the ICP sensor disconnected WILL THROW A P2285 code. Often times people think that this code means a failed ICP sensor or bad wiring to the ICP sensor when it really is due solely to the attempted start with the sensor unplugged.
8. It is important to have functional glow plugs. Many people think glow plugs are an unimportant supplementary part of the engine functionality. While this can sometimes be true, just bite the bullet and FIX the failed components if you have glow plug codes/issues.
9. You might as well post up what oil you are running (viscosity grade), along with how old it is (miles and engine hours).
10. There are a lot more tests that can be done based on your specific needs. The more information you can pull together (and post) on your issue, the more quickly we can get specific information to you!!
.
Data to collect before posting:
(provide this information when you do decide to start a thread):
.
Vehicle Info Input:
- Make
- Model (including vehicle AND Engine year):
- Drive:
- Engine:
- Stock / Modified:
- Tuned:
- Scanner used? - (ForScan or Torque Pro recommended)
- DTC Codes?
Symptoms (Describe):
Operating Conditions:ESPECIALLY If it is a Crank No-Start, begin by filling in the data requested below:
KOEO:
- ICP sensor volts
- FICM MPower
- FICM LPower
- FICM VPower
- IPR % Duty Cycle
- Fuel tank level
- Is the oil level high or low on the dipstick, and if it is high, does it smell like diesel fuel (check this anytime)?
- Might as well check the air filter "Filter Minder". Replace filter IF it is restricted (check this anytime)!!
- Cam/Crank Sync
- FICM Sync
- FICM MPower
- FICM VPower
- FICM LPower
- Injector Pulse Width
- rpm
- ICP sensor volts
- ICP pressure
- IPR % Duty Cycle
- v-reference voltage
Media Input Photos - Pictures of top of engine are really helpful at times!
Videos - A video of cranking data sometimes is a big help also! It may require posting the video to YouTube and then posting the link in your thread.
These are goods thread on troubleshooting a no-start:
.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html
.
Last edited by bismic; Dec 31, 2025 at 09:08 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,792
Likes: 3,542
A couple of good videos:
.
.
.
I pulled the testing tables out of the Alliant videos (links posted above) and modified them a bit - just to make it easier to reference and use in troubleshooting. I finally got around to doing this - been wanting to for some time. Nothing new here really, but just trying to make this a a bit more complete and usable thread.
.
Step 1: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Inspect Battery Cables, Terminals, and Connections
- Inspect condition of the main grounding point on the block (by the Harmonic Balancer)
- Inspect Wiring Harnesses and Connections (do the wiggle test)
- Inspect for fluid leaks, oil/fuel
- Inspect Cooling Hoses and Connections
.
Step 2: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Engine oil, please note what oil is in the truck AND the ambient temperature
- Coolant
- Miles and/or Hours on oil
.
Step 3: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Check Filter Minder for indication of restriction
- Check Intake air system, and Intake Duct for signs of leakage or damage
- Inspect Exhaust System for damage or leakage (start at Turbo)
.
Step 4: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Verify fuel level
- Check for WIF (drain from the WIF plug into a clear container)
- Inspect fuel filters for contamination
- Inspect primary fuel filter cap o-ring and WIF drain plug o-ring
.
Step 5: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Verify power and ground (key on) at the fuel pump connector (remember, the fuel pump will only stay on for 15-20 seconds if the engine does not start)
- Check fuel supply pressure (45 psig minimum at all times).
- Check secondary fuel filter housing fill rate: 5-6 seconds is typical, you will remove the secondary fuel filter and remove all standing fuel, also check for bubbles when filling (note: this is a two person job if you want to avoid over-filling the housing).
- Check Vacuum to inlet of HFCM if you have the tools and if the engine will start (6 inches of HG vacuum maximum at idle)
.
Step 6: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Connect a CAPABLE scan tool (FORScan or Torque Pro are good tools and will read codes thoroughly, most scan tools won't)
- Document the code numbers found
- Clear codes and then perform KOEO engine self test. Record all new DTC information
.
Step 7: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- FORScan will do this test. The spool valve clicking should be heard on all injectors.
.
Step 8: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Static Battery Voltage (12.6 minimum)
- KOEO FICM Mpower (46v minimum)
- KOEO FICM Lpower (10v minimum)
- KOEO FICM Vpower (10v minimum)
- Cranking FICM Mpower (45v minimum)
- Cranking FICM Lpower (9.5v minimum)
- Cranking FICM Vpower (9.5v minimum)
- Cranking Cam/Crank SYNC (1 means it is in SYNC)
- Cranking Engine RPMs (150 rpm minimum)
- KOEO ICP volts (.15 - .24v)
- Cranking ICP volts (.8v minimum)
- Cranking ICP pressure, psi (500 minimum)
- Cranking IPR % Duty Cycle (less than 30% typical)
- Cranking FICM Sync (1 means it is in Sync)
- Cranking FICM Injector Pulse Width (500 us - 2 ms)
- KOEO V-reference voltage (5 volts +/- 0.5)
- Cranking V-reference voltage (5 volts +/- 0.5)
- KOEO temperatures (IAT1, IAT2, ECT, EOT, TFT): (all should be very close to each other and ambient temperature on a cold engine)
- KOEO pressures (EBP_A, Baro, and MAP): (all should be within a few tenths of a psi of each other at KOEO). Also post EBP_G.
- EGR Valve Position KOEO
- EGR Valve Position Cranking
.
Step 9: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- If the engine problems are rough running, then disable one injector at a time to see if engine operation changes with injector disabled
.
Step 10: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Bubble Test when cranking: if bubbles are present, this indicates an internal injector issue, so look back at any codes that you had for a possible identification of the injector that is bad. NOTE: the secondary fuel filter must be removed and the fuel level should cover the filter housing standpipe, crank using the starter solenoid wire on the passenger fender wall jumpered to the passenger battery + terminal.
.
I pulled the testing tables out of the Alliant videos (links posted above) and modified them a bit - just to make it easier to reference and use in troubleshooting. I finally got around to doing this - been wanting to for some time. Nothing new here really, but just trying to make this a a bit more complete and usable thread.
.
Step 1: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Inspect Battery Cables, Terminals, and Connections
- Inspect condition of the main grounding point on the block (by the Harmonic Balancer)
- Inspect Wiring Harnesses and Connections (do the wiggle test)
- Inspect for fluid leaks, oil/fuel
- Inspect Cooling Hoses and Connections
.
Step 2: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Engine oil, please note what oil is in the truck AND the ambient temperature
- Coolant
- Miles and/or Hours on oil
.
Step 3: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Check Filter Minder for indication of restriction
- Check Intake air system, and Intake Duct for signs of leakage or damage
- Inspect Exhaust System for damage or leakage (start at Turbo)
.
Step 4: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Verify fuel level
- Check for WIF (drain from the WIF plug into a clear container)
- Inspect fuel filters for contamination
- Inspect primary fuel filter cap o-ring and WIF drain plug o-ring
.
Step 5: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Verify power and ground (key on) at the fuel pump connector (remember, the fuel pump will only stay on for 15-20 seconds if the engine does not start)
- Check fuel supply pressure (45 psig minimum at all times).
- Check secondary fuel filter housing fill rate: 5-6 seconds is typical, you will remove the secondary fuel filter and remove all standing fuel, also check for bubbles when filling (note: this is a two person job if you want to avoid over-filling the housing).
- Check Vacuum to inlet of HFCM if you have the tools and if the engine will start (6 inches of HG vacuum maximum at idle)
.
Step 6: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Connect a CAPABLE scan tool (FORScan or Torque Pro are good tools and will read codes thoroughly, most scan tools won't)
- Document the code numbers found
- Clear codes and then perform KOEO engine self test. Record all new DTC information
.
Step 7: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- FORScan will do this test. The spool valve clicking should be heard on all injectors.
.
Step 8: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Static Battery Voltage (12.6 minimum)
- KOEO FICM Mpower (46v minimum)
- KOEO FICM Lpower (10v minimum)
- KOEO FICM Vpower (10v minimum)
- Cranking FICM Mpower (45v minimum)
- Cranking FICM Lpower (9.5v minimum)
- Cranking FICM Vpower (9.5v minimum)
- Cranking Cam/Crank SYNC (1 means it is in SYNC)
- Cranking Engine RPMs (150 rpm minimum)
- KOEO ICP volts (.15 - .24v)
- Cranking ICP volts (.8v minimum)
- Cranking ICP pressure, psi (500 minimum)
- Cranking IPR % Duty Cycle (less than 30% typical)
- Cranking FICM Sync (1 means it is in Sync)
- Cranking FICM Injector Pulse Width (500 us - 2 ms)
- KOEO V-reference voltage (5 volts +/- 0.5)
- Cranking V-reference voltage (5 volts +/- 0.5)
- KOEO temperatures (IAT1, IAT2, ECT, EOT, TFT): (all should be very close to each other and ambient temperature on a cold engine)
- KOEO pressures (EBP_A, Baro, and MAP): (all should be within a few tenths of a psi of each other at KOEO). Also post EBP_G.
- EGR Valve Position KOEO
- EGR Valve Position Cranking
.
Step 9: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- If the engine problems are rough running, then disable one injector at a time to see if engine operation changes with injector disabled
.
Step 10: Visual Inspection of Engine Compartment
- Bubble Test when cranking: if bubbles are present, this indicates an internal injector issue, so look back at any codes that you had for a possible identification of the injector that is bad. NOTE: the secondary fuel filter must be removed and the fuel level should cover the filter housing standpipe, crank using the starter solenoid wire on the passenger fender wall jumpered to the passenger battery + terminal.
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