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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

2150 Accelerator Pump Linkage Question

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Old Jul 13, 2024 | 02:03 PM
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2150 Accelerator Pump Linkage Question

Hey y'all, just rebuilt my carb, replaced power valve. Accelerator pump and gaskets. Found the power valve to be blown so hopefully this along with some major timing adjustments will get this 84' running right. Anyways, im putting the carb back together and the accelerator pump seems to be pushed in way more than it was before. I checked the length and it's identical to the previous one, but before the linkage just barely touched the rod. The pictures are of the linkage without me touching it, then with me pushing the spring out (away from throttle) then with WOT. Does this look right? I don't think it was right before given all the other wonky stuff with this truck but this seems like too much pressure. Thoughts?


 
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Old Jul 13, 2024 | 02:04 PM
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And I tried moving the linkage to the different holes 1-4 but there was significant pressure on the pump at all positions
 
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Old Jul 13, 2024 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by aherz0g
Found the power valve to be blown...
Can't help with the accel pump, as your linkage looks different than my truck. But for the power valve, have you seen this?:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fferences.html

 
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Old Jul 13, 2024 | 02:43 PM
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My thinking is that the linkage should just touch the rod or have a small gap. But I would check Gary's site and read up on your 2150

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/motorcraft-2150.html
 
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Old Jul 13, 2024 | 03:03 PM
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Check out the tips section. Apparently there were three different rebuild kits depending on year. The accelerator pump rod had differing lengths and there might be an internal adjustment, shortening to prevent interference. Some had a linkage adjustment on the throttle end. But I think you can adjust the link by straightening the bend in the link, or shortening by adding to the bends.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2024 | 03:18 PM
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Hold the throttle wide open and while doing that, hold the choke door straight up and down. While holding the choke door straight up and down, slowly release the throttle. The butterflies in the carb should be almost shut. I think the fast idle cam is holding throttle open.

If everything is working correctly, the choke should be shut, and that will put the throttle on the fast idle cam. This will hold the throttle open some, and press on the accelerator pump more than usual.

Play with it a little bit, and check out the pass side of the carb and how the fast idle mechanism works. This will be very valuable when you get the engine running and are adjusting all this stuff.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2024 | 08:07 PM
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Thanks everyone, I was playing around with the choke linkages too to make sure nothing was hanging up, even with the fast idle cam out of the way it didn't make difference...I also found out about the different versions over the years, had to order a single stage power valve and a different accelerator pump because the kit came with a two stage power valve and the A.P with the spring attached. I'm thinking maybe when I mount it with the throttle cable and kick down rod it might put it in a more normal position? But I also might try bending the A.P arm to be give it more length. Thanks for all the tips yall
 
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