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You don't have to have the engine or trans separated in order to get something wedged in there. It falls down in there when the manifold is removed and the valley is exposed.
If you can move the crank only so far both ways then something is bent inside, likely a connecting rod.
OK From the beginning
When I had things plumbed wrong - it actually did start a couole of times then slowed and cut out after about 15 seconds.
When I discovered the problem - it started, then abruptly stopped. As I said - no loud bans, noises. No smoke or steam.
After that it would not turn over at all. I was concerned about "hydro-lock" so I did try turning the crank shaft by hand - no go. I removed the plugs and was able to turn the crankshaft about 15 degrees (either way. I have leaned on the breaker bar pdamage.retty hard but absolutely no give and I didn't want to cause further
it actually did start a couole of times then slowed and cut out after about 15 seconds.
When I discovered the problem - it started, then abruptly stopped.
I don't know how coolant would cause that kind of problem. To me, that sounds like something fell in and finally got wedged. Regardless, the engine is apparently locked and without taking things apart I see no other way of resolving this.
Summarized, it looks like the engine started and ran for 15 seconds, twice, with a coolant line connected to an intake manifold vacuum port. Each time it slowed then died. The coolant line was then connected to its proper place and the engine was started again but it died abruptly. How long did it run on the third try before it stopped/died? 2 seconds? 2 minutes?
Could be that a hydrolock caused a timng chain to break. The coolant might have drained in to the oil pan so there was no sign when the plugs were removed. Simplest next step might be to pull the valve covers and see. And/or drain the oil. Coolant will be at the bottom and exit first. Two things that don't take much time or effort.
Good luck. Bummer that you fixed one problem but might have created a new one.