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How would these run in a stock tuned truck and what would I notice compared to stock ones. Any technical advantages to going with a single shot? Truck is just a slow, low boosting trailer hauler that needs to be as reliable as possible.
I’ve got a new high frequency/voltage IDM from DTC on the way so I’ll be curious to see what effect that has (if any) but the low idle has gotten worse and there are some lumpy/shaky spots in the RPM range. At 356k I’m guessing 1 or 2 of the injectors are bad at this point.
You will need tuning to run them, there are pros- like more power potential, slightly shorter pulse width which can help keep egts in check, etc. As well as cons- needs tuning, a bit loader idle, somewhat more prone to a bit more cold start smoke in below freezing.
I was dead set on on 160/0 injectors until I found a tune I was happy with and an updated turbo that was more efficient and better in every way than the OEM turbo could be, even upgraded/modified.
A canned tune from PHP (65 HP) and a free flowing turbo makes my 267,000 mile stock injectors work great. SkySkiJason once told me "don't change a thing on this truck until you have to, it is one of the best running stock injector trucks I have ever driven."
My plans now and after towing heavy in many situations, grades and even up to 9,000 feet elevation are to stick with the stock injectors until they start to fail. Then, I will replace them with stock injectors from Rosewood or CNC Fab with the help of ESwift.
Clean, efficient and free flowing air into the system is the best thing anyone can do for their 7.3L in my humble opinion. After that and a preferred tune are sorted, more power/fuel via injectors should be the next consideration.
You do have a lot of miles on your injectors, but they are a fairly large investment for these dinosaurs. It is not unheard of for people to get 400,000 - 500,000 miles out of their stock injectors. @MoBill122 had 500,000 or so miles on his injectors if I recall correctly.
I hope this helps and does not make the decision more difficult.
my '02 Excursion is stock with a Hydra PHP tuner, I have been running it on the 65hp mode for a couple of years....
just a couple days ago, decided to give the 80hp mode a trial run, I believe that it is even smoother and performs better on that mode.... the tranny shifts better, locks up and stays locked up.
I am going to keep it stock, if the windmill needs a new fan to push air into the cylinders, I will just get a spinner that makes the stock Turbo run better...
it has 180,000 miles on it now, starts right up, and runs smooth as butter.
I like my 160/0's more than enough power to be "reliable" and I have those quotations due to the mill in my obs taking a dump. 100k of pure abuse towing heavy on a hot tune will do that I guess. Wrist pin bushings gave out my guess is cylinder pressure was just too much for the pistons and bushings to handle
Overall if you dont abuse your truck like I did you will be happy. But stock sticks with a decent tune are great as well, thats the reason when I had my injectors rebuild on my 00 I went with stock rebuild as I never plan on running a tune on it or abuse it like I did on my 95.
Just for reference here's the carnage of the cylinder walls on my mill,
Cylinders 1and 3
As bad as it looks the truck ran great, no excesive blow by, and only took the engine out due to a timing cover leak that turned into a worst case scenario once I saw the wrist pin clips laying inside the oil pan.
Here is another will be running stock AD injectors in both our 7.3L trucks for as long as possible...have a low mileage (30k) mile set sitting on the shelf when the time comes. I recently shimmed the original injectors in both trucks to help get more miles out of them...something you might consider or at least investigate with yours. I also did some work to the turbo's in both trucks along with getting everything sealed up tight...bellowed up-pipes, new CAC boots & clamps, intake plenum inserts, etc. Both trucks also got new turbo billet compressor wheels and my F350 also recieved a 360* rebuild kit plus a KC s300 turbine wheel. The F350 did get one of those upgraded IDM units several years back...it made little if any difference. With the mileage on your truck, I would highly recommend looking into boost leaks around the up-pipes and the orange CAC boots between the spider and intake plenums before investing in new expensive injectors...
I like my 160/0's more than enough power to be "reliable" and I have those quotations due to the mill in my obs taking a dump. 100k of pure abuse towing heavy on a hot tune will do that I guess. Wrist pin bushings gave out my guess is cylinder pressure was just too much for the pistons and bushings to handle
Overall if you dont abuse your truck like I did you will be happy. But stock sticks with a decent tune are great as well, thats the reason when I had my injectors rebuild on my 00 I went with stock rebuild as I never plan on running a tune on it or abuse it like I did on my 95.
Just for reference here's the carnage of the cylinder walls on my mill,
Cylinders 1and 3
As bad as it looks the truck ran great, no excesive blow by, and only took the engine out due to a timing cover leak that turned into a worst case scenario once I saw the wrist pin clips laying inside the oil pan.
Oh, I could imagine what was going through your head when you found those clips.
The IDM thing is really just a piece-of-mind fix (yeah right…it’s never at piece when you’re driving a 25 year old rig across the country trying to make a living with it lol). But the one that’s in there now is an OEM Ford unit I found used on eBay for $200 just to get the truck running again when the other one crapped out and left me on the side of the road on 294 in Chicago with a trailer last fall. That one was a parts store reman that a shop put in back in 2017 when I bought the truck and didn’t know anything and it lasted about 6 years. (Maybe it got water in it.) I’d intended to do a new DTC IDM with the “HFHV” anyway since I had no idea how long that used one would hold up. It looked little mangy on the outside so I cleaned it up and put a piece of heavy duty clear packing tape over the hole and it’s been in there since last October. Not sure if they degrade in performance over time or if the 140 volt mod will make any noticeable improvement, but sometimes you just have to waste a little money to make yourself feel better and satisfy curiosity. Should be here in a couple days and the current one I’ll send in to get my core charge back.
injector wise I was disappointed to hear Rosewood closed their service center, because I was planning to just drop the whole truck off for a few days and let them pick it apart and fix/re-install the original injectors, but now I’ll probably just have to order a set and have the Ford truck shop over in Mishawaka do the swap and send the old ones in as cores. Maybe if they can rush a turnaround on mine I could do that. I would be curious to hear the full report on what I’ve had going on with this current set but that would cause a lot of downtime is the problem. Maybe they could just indulge me and let me know even if I wasn’t getting them back.
Just for reference here's the carnage of the cylinder walls on my mill,
As bad as it looks the truck ran great, no excesive blow by, and only took the engine out due to a timing cover leak that turned into a worst case scenario once I saw the wrist pin clips laying inside the oil pan.
Originally Posted by udsuth78
What!? That should'a buffed right out... Ok, maybe knock down the highs with a little emery cloth first. Then it'll buff right out.
I myself am a big single shot fan. 160/0’s are in my opinion a better option for someone looking for a small bump in power and more efficient all around. Plus I love the sound
I know your not asking me but I got a good tow in up the mountain last weekend with the now sxr turbo and it is definitely better then the sxe but it’s not the same size either. For me I’m very happy with the change
