AC injectors
CNCFAB
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 4,874
Likes: 2,006
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
Loved my 160/80's. The truck wasn't faster but was a lot stronger and it felt like I could change the earth's rotational speed with my right foot. 
As @Sous said, getting the air in and the exhaust out are the first things you should tackle.
Even with my modified stock turbo I could set off the filter minder with ease. I had to ditch the 6637 for more flow and still had some hazing. I'm pretty sure the stock turbo was the problem and had plans to upgrade to a GTP38R (have to stay OEM - or at least look OEM - in CA to pass smog) but a distracted Jeep Wrangler driver ended my PMS habit.
As @Sous said, getting the air in and the exhaust out are the first things you should tackle.
Even with my modified stock turbo I could set off the filter minder with ease. I had to ditch the 6637 for more flow and still had some hazing. I'm pretty sure the stock turbo was the problem and had plans to upgrade to a GTP38R (have to stay OEM - or at least look OEM - in CA to pass smog) but a distracted Jeep Wrangler driver ended my PMS habit.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
Y’all with previous experience recommend 160/0 over 160/30 or 180/30s? Paired with a 364.5/.91 sxe and good airflow, otherwise stock-ish plus frx and a FPR setup to 67psi.
im still on 247k stock injectors which are doing well, but I’m just planning ahead for the day that they start to give up.
This is a 2001 excursion, with stock SD Michelins and 3.73s, frequently pulling a 8200# TT, sea level to 3k’ but mostly flat here in the SE USA. She does well at the moment, but I’d like to see the turbo come alive a little earlier (1900rpm now) and thus reduce my 3-4th gear transition temps which hang out around 950-1100.
I Realize that with anything more than 160/0 I’ll probably need a new IC as well to help keep the temps in check. Just looking for some reliability advice since I’ve never been in a 7.3 with anything but stock sticks.
im still on 247k stock injectors which are doing well, but I’m just planning ahead for the day that they start to give up.
This is a 2001 excursion, with stock SD Michelins and 3.73s, frequently pulling a 8200# TT, sea level to 3k’ but mostly flat here in the SE USA. She does well at the moment, but I’d like to see the turbo come alive a little earlier (1900rpm now) and thus reduce my 3-4th gear transition temps which hang out around 950-1100.
I Realize that with anything more than 160/0 I’ll probably need a new IC as well to help keep the temps in check. Just looking for some reliability advice since I’ve never been in a 7.3 with anything but stock sticks.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
Y’all with previous experience recommend 160/0 over 160/30 or 180/30s? Paired with a 364.5/.91 sxe and good airflow, otherwise stock-ish plus frx and a FPR setup to 67psi.
364 is too big for your gears and anything below 200s in injector size. When I towed a 5th wheel back in that weight area with stock injectors they were plenty for crossing the Rockies on i70 thru the Eisenhower pass. I'd recommend a 363/84 for stock to 160/x . It supplies plenty of air with my 160/0's, I see mid 30s on boost pulling grades and no EGT issues at all
This is a 2001 excursion, with stock SD Michelins and 3.73s, frequently pulling a 8200# TT, sea level to 3k’ but mostly flat here in the SE USA. She does well at the moment, but I’d like to see the turbo come alive a little earlier (1900rpm now) and thus reduce my 3-4th gear transition temps which hang out around 950-1100.
Honestly if I could do it all over for towing in that weight range, I'd stay with stock injectors, KC SXE turbine, RiffRaff 4+4 and a 4" turbo back. Was plenty with just a 40hp tune. Granted that turbo setup kept my 160s clean @40hp, as well my stock injectors @ 60 & 80hp tunes towing 13k#
I Realize that with anything more than 160/0 I’ll probably need a new IC as well to help keep the temps in check.
Only if your current one has the plastic end tanks and has split, otherwise the turbo map has more to do with it than a new IC will ever do
364 is too big for your gears and anything below 200s in injector size. When I towed a 5th wheel back in that weight area with stock injectors they were plenty for crossing the Rockies on i70 thru the Eisenhower pass. I'd recommend a 363/84 for stock to 160/x . It supplies plenty of air with my 160/0's, I see mid 30s on boost pulling grades and no EGT issues at all
This is a 2001 excursion, with stock SD Michelins and 3.73s, frequently pulling a 8200# TT, sea level to 3k’ but mostly flat here in the SE USA. She does well at the moment, but I’d like to see the turbo come alive a little earlier (1900rpm now) and thus reduce my 3-4th gear transition temps which hang out around 950-1100.
Honestly if I could do it all over for towing in that weight range, I'd stay with stock injectors, KC SXE turbine, RiffRaff 4+4 and a 4" turbo back. Was plenty with just a 40hp tune. Granted that turbo setup kept my 160s clean @40hp, as well my stock injectors @ 60 & 80hp tunes towing 13k#
I Realize that with anything more than 160/0 I’ll probably need a new IC as well to help keep the temps in check.
Only if your current one has the plastic end tanks and has split, otherwise the turbo map has more to do with it than a new IC will ever do
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
Thanks brother, much appreciated. Yes, I do wish I had gone with a 363, my quest was somewhat experimental. That said, a new 363 would ultimately be a more cost effective option than all of the satellite expense associated with new injectors while the originals are still plugging away.
i do have a new adrenaline HPOP on the shelf, was planning to start there plus a new IPR and see how the truck behaves with that. Any concerns with high mileage injectors responding negatively to the increased flow of the new oil pump?
i do have a new adrenaline HPOP on the shelf, was planning to start there plus a new IPR and see how the truck behaves with that. Any concerns with high mileage injectors responding negatively to the increased flow of the new oil pump?
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Joe Kucinski
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
If they're going to fail they're going to fail, the health of the high pressure pump won't have a whole lot to do with that. You might notice a little more pep maybe a little crisper throttle response. I may have missed it but is this truck tuned at all? If not then that's where you need to start/
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
Yes the truck has a hydra with their tunes which I typically run on the “performance 120” setting. I’ve never been thrilled with the shift points which is what had me contemplating the jelibilt tunes/FFD 1.5 combo in the first place to save a few bucks vs buying his split shot tunes and eventually buying adjustments for the singles.
It’s sounding though like that may be the way to go anyway.
It’s sounding though like that may be the way to go anyway.
If they're going to fail they're going to fail, the health of the high pressure pump won't have a whole lot to do with that. You might notice a little more pep maybe a little crisper throttle response. I may have missed it but is this truck tuned at all? If not then that's where you need to start/
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,853
Likes: 2,331
From: WV
Originally Posted by Jregezeino
Y’all with previous experience recommend 160/0 over 160/30 or 180/30s? Paired with a 364.5/.91 sxe and good airflow, otherwise stock-ish plus frx and a FPR setup to 67psi.
BTW changing the turbo actually made my shift points feel MUCH better. It was always under the turbo with the 73mm requiring extra throttle.
You can also go with the tighter .83 A/R if really after early spooling.
Check out information about turbos here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-reviews.html
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 130
Likes: 19
From: Idaho
There is an important factor left out when describing your turbo. The turbine size is often not mentioned but has a significant impact on when it starts to spool. Most guys end up with the 73mm which in my opinion is too big with anything close to stock injectors. The 68mm turbine will perform better in the area you’re looking for, and for me with stock injectors, it’s never ran out of air up top. I’m running the 363/68/.91 after removing a 364.5/73/.91.
BTW changing the turbo actually made my shift points feel MUCH better. It was always under the turbo with the 73mm requiring extra throttle.
You can also go with the tighter .83 A/R if really after early spooling.
Check out information about turbos here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-reviews.html
BTW changing the turbo actually made my shift points feel MUCH better. It was always under the turbo with the 73mm requiring extra throttle.
You can also go with the tighter .83 A/R if really after early spooling.
Check out information about turbos here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-reviews.html
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 130
Likes: 19
From: Idaho
I wasn't watching my ebp but on this last trip I kept throwing 2 SES pulling my 10K lb 5th wheel toyhauler on steep passes. High ebp and Low ICP pressure. I'm running stock injectors and stock turbo with the KC Turbine upgrade. Running the 1023 Heavy Tow tune to keep EGTs below 1300 and running about 26 psi of boost with my foot to the floor and going about 55-65 mph depending on the steepness of the grade in 3rd gear with my auto trans.