stuck bleeder on caliper
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 653
Likes: 105
From: New Dominion, PE
no idea of what got changed over the years. I'll see if I can get the $$ for replace the hoses on the front. truck was a vegas area rig for most of its lifespan. rust
was not a problem but I get it that the hoses may be in unknown state given the number of years it's been on the road.
was not a problem but I get it that the hoses may be in unknown state given the number of years it's been on the road.
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 653
Likes: 105
From: New Dominion, PE
one question I had when I doing the bleed procedure...after depressing the brakes, there is good contact preventing wheel rotation
when brakes are applied. when the brake pedal is let off...how must retained pressure should there be on the wheel (ie: being able to
rotate it by hand)...which I can do but there is a bit of resistance...not excessive.
where I'm going here is if the brake hoses are collapsing internally and not allowing the fluid to return back toward the reservoir
normally, this may be a problem.
when brakes are applied. when the brake pedal is let off...how must retained pressure should there be on the wheel (ie: being able to
rotate it by hand)...which I can do but there is a bit of resistance...not excessive.
where I'm going here is if the brake hoses are collapsing internally and not allowing the fluid to return back toward the reservoir
normally, this may be a problem.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,811
Likes: 1,023
When does one stop feeling bad after they hit little Johnny playing with his friends outside? It's a decision we all make and many times I make for my clients. Sadly, I don't think people really assess how important brakes are.
These trucks are old and brakes are probably the most important system in your truck. Every year people should do one thing to keep their truck safe. When it comes to brakes, if you don't know when, then it's probably time. I live in a place that does not have a rust problem but I do know that, except for the master cylinder [which I have new ready to be installed], all the wear items and hydraulic components have been replaced. Brakes parts are fairly cheap, certainly cheaper than what happens when you don't have any.
These trucks are old and brakes are probably the most important system in your truck. Every year people should do one thing to keep their truck safe. When it comes to brakes, if you don't know when, then it's probably time. I live in a place that does not have a rust problem but I do know that, except for the master cylinder [which I have new ready to be installed], all the wear items and hydraulic components have been replaced. Brakes parts are fairly cheap, certainly cheaper than what happens when you don't have any.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 653
Likes: 105
From: New Dominion, PE
When does one stop feeling bad after they hit little Johnny playing with his friends outside? It's a decision we all make and many times I make for my clients. Sadly, I don't think people really assess how important brakes are.
These trucks are old and brakes are probably the most important system in your truck. Every year people should do one thing to keep their truck safe. When it comes to brakes, if you don't know when, then it's probably time. I live in a place that does not have a rust problem but I do know that, except for the master cylinder [which I have new ready to be installed], all the wear items and hydraulic components have been replaced. Brakes parts are fairly cheap, certainly cheaper than what happens when you don't have any.
These trucks are old and brakes are probably the most important system in your truck. Every year people should do one thing to keep their truck safe. When it comes to brakes, if you don't know when, then it's probably time. I live in a place that does not have a rust problem but I do know that, except for the master cylinder [which I have new ready to be installed], all the wear items and hydraulic components have been replaced. Brakes parts are fairly cheap, certainly cheaper than what happens when you don't have any.
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 739
Likes: 256
From: Zimmerman, MN
one question I had when I doing the bleed procedure...after depressing the brakes, there is good contact preventing wheel rotation
when brakes are applied. when the brake pedal is let off...how must retained pressure should there be on the wheel (ie: being able to
rotate it by hand)...which I can do but there is a bit of resistance...not excessive.
where I'm going here is if the brake hoses are collapsing internally and not allowing the fluid to return back toward the reservoir
normally, this may be a problem.
when brakes are applied. when the brake pedal is let off...how must retained pressure should there be on the wheel (ie: being able to
rotate it by hand)...which I can do but there is a bit of resistance...not excessive.
where I'm going here is if the brake hoses are collapsing internally and not allowing the fluid to return back toward the reservoir
normally, this may be a problem.
So while that "brake drag" you're feeling is subjective, it could be excessive.
Something to consider, anyway.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,811
Likes: 1,023
That adjustment certainly is important and I learned about it so many years ago. I have never seen the adjustment made or even checked. When I bolt up a new master cylinder, I just make certain the piston is not being moved.
I believe you, but it's hard to believe something like that left the factory. Good catch on your part.
I believe you, but it's hard to believe something like that left the factory. Good catch on your part.
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 653
Likes: 105
From: New Dominion, PE
just finishing up the brake job...I did the brake lines (rubber/metal) on the front as per 1butcher's rekky. flushed the old brake fluid to the rear
brake cylinders. 1 of the bleeders was full of crud and would not bleed...replaced both with new ones (including rubber tophats to keep the
crud out). I then flushed the old fluid out until got a good clear stream of new fluid.
cleaned out the rear differential breather hose. it was plugged up pretty good at the metal outlet where the rubber hose connect to it. lot
of gooey stuff inside.clean now. flushed the hose and nipple on the end. cut 1" of hose where it connects to the metal nipple.
I'll measure the temp of the rotor on my 1st trip with the truck after doing the brakes and see how hot the rotors get. if anyone knows
how hot is too hot...feel free to chime in. thx.
brake cylinders. 1 of the bleeders was full of crud and would not bleed...replaced both with new ones (including rubber tophats to keep the
crud out). I then flushed the old fluid out until got a good clear stream of new fluid.
cleaned out the rear differential breather hose. it was plugged up pretty good at the metal outlet where the rubber hose connect to it. lot
of gooey stuff inside.clean now. flushed the hose and nipple on the end. cut 1" of hose where it connects to the metal nipple.
I'll measure the temp of the rotor on my 1st trip with the truck after doing the brakes and see how hot the rotors get. if anyone knows
how hot is too hot...feel free to chime in. thx.
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 653
Likes: 105
From: New Dominion, PE
I've posted this before, but my '92 F150 used to "eat" rotors quite regularly, and from Day One. Turns out the pushrod sticking out of the brake booster was misadjusted from the factory, and after turning it "in" a bit (shortening it), the front pads no longer "hung-up" and overheated the rotors.
So while that "brake drag" you're feeling is subjective, it could be excessive.
Something to consider, anyway.
So while that "brake drag" you're feeling is subjective, it could be excessive.
Something to consider, anyway.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 653
Likes: 105
From: New Dominion, PE
took the truck into town...1st drive since doing the brake job. brakes are firm...no pedal pulsation anymore...not pulling left/right.
seems to be balance front/back braking.
took temp measurements on the rotor surface when I got home. passenger side - 95 deg F. drivers 101 F.
seems to be balance front/back braking.
took temp measurements on the rotor surface when I got home. passenger side - 95 deg F. drivers 101 F.
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