When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Read a bunch in here and couldn’t seem to find the answer.
My turn signal, emissions light, handbrake light etc work - everything works EXCEPT my dash light for the speedometer and tachometer.
I tried replacing all bulbs to LED (note: turn signals etc worked fine with LED), I looked at wires all seemed fine, but I’m not a pro..), replaced fuses exactly as the box diagram shows.
Then I was led to the headlight switch, pulled it out and saw 7 terminals. The replacement I find online has 8 terminals. Anyone know the reason why the difference?
Also, I cannot seem to get to investigate the cables by the headlight switch and highly doubt I would be able to replace the connector as there’s no room whatsoever. Maybe you got some tips.
Anyone got a good guess to why my dash lights won’t work? Could it be the headlight switch I simply need to replace with a 8 terminal one?
By the way, tried removing the radio as well to see if that was interfering - wasn’t it.
Last edited by Bermworm; Jun 27, 2024 at 09:23 PM.
On the switch, is the dimmer adjustment turned down too far? Rotate the **** left and right to change the brightness. Do you still have LED bulbs installed? They may not be happy with less than full voltage.
Also, the illumination bulbs have plastic diffuser lenses. As the plastic ages, these lenses become opaque. Maybe the bulbs are working but the light output is being blocked?
On the switch, is the dimmer adjustment turned down too far? Rotate the **** left and right to change the brightness. Do you still have LED bulbs installed? They may not be happy with less than full voltage.
Also, the illumination bulbs have plastic diffuser lenses. As the plastic ages, these lenses become opaque. Maybe the bulbs are working but the light output is being blocked?
Also some LED's only install 1 way.if turning the switch dose nothing turn the bulbs 90* and try again.
Dave ----
Where's the extra terminal? The diagram below shows 7 also. The lightblue/red #19 is the wire that feeds the fuse for the illumination in the dash.
thanks! Yea I think Ford just did a 8 terminal to optimize on costs. My connector would take 8 terminals, but the 1 excess wouldn’t do anything.
I’ll double check that wire, but I think it’s good.
On the switch, is the dimmer adjustment turned down too far? Rotate the **** left and right to change the brightness. Do you still have LED bulbs installed? They may not be happy with less than full voltage.
Also, the illumination bulbs have plastic diffuser lenses. As the plastic ages, these lenses become opaque. Maybe the bulbs are working but the light output is being blocked?
Really good point. Didn’t actually think of the voltage output for LED. Think I’ll still throw on a new switch just because I got it out now, but let me try this when I get it assembled
Aight, replaced the headlight switch and now the dash lights come on. However, it randomly turns on/off the parking light, rear lights and dash light. Which I guess is a loose connection somewhere. Any other guesses? At least I’m progressing…
Wiggle the wires around that plug into the switch. See if that makes them blink. Also get in the fuse box and find the running/tail fuse. Wiggle it around and see if they blink.
Sometimes people add things in the fuse box and they use what they call a "fuse tap". These work good, but they tend to bend the contacts where the fuse goes. If someone has one in there and then takes it out, it can cause a intermittent connection on the fuse. If you ever find a fuse tap in your fuse box and don't need it anymore, uinplug the wire but leave the fuse tap in place. Or you can end up with a loose connection.
Wiggle the wires around that plug into the switch. See if that makes them blink. Also get in the fuse box and find the running/tail fuse. Wiggle it around and see if they blink.
Sometimes people add things in the fuse box and they use what they call a "fuse tap". These work good, but they tend to bend the contacts where the fuse goes. If someone has one in there and then takes it out, it can cause a intermittent connection on the fuse. If you ever find a fuse tap in your fuse box and don't need it anymore, uinplug the wire but leave the fuse tap in place. Or you can end up with a loose connection.
Thanks Franklin. Turned out I had put the bolt in that holds the switch opposite which made it a little weird. Fixed that and now it runs great!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
