352 vs 390
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2024
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352 vs 390
Okay guys so I bought a 1967 f250 that has the 352 in it. I don't want a 700hp hot rod but I would like a fun truck to drive. Building this truck for my daughter so when she's old enough she can have it. I spoke to a few local shops about rebuilding the 352 and all the ones I spoke to said to ditch the 352 and put in a 390. The main reason was due to oiling issues with the 352.
What do you guys think? Build up the current 352 it has or swap it with a 390?
What do you guys think? Build up the current 352 it has or swap it with a 390?
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2024
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I meant oiling issues. So if you were going to keep the 352 what would you do to it?
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
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The 390 and 352 share the same oiling system.
It really depends on your budget.
With the basic non-high performance versions, almost everything interchanges. There is also substantial aftermarket support for just about everything.
You could build a 9 to 9.5 CR 352 with a 4bbl, headers (even shorties) and a mild cam and have a pretty good runner. Add to that with head work or aftermarket heads, performance manifold, and you are in fine shape power wise.
The FE exhaust manifolds are the biggest cork in the system, then the lower compression used in some pickup engines.
There is nothing that hasn't been done to the FE engine.
What kind of condition is your engine?
It really depends on your budget.
With the basic non-high performance versions, almost everything interchanges. There is also substantial aftermarket support for just about everything.
You could build a 9 to 9.5 CR 352 with a 4bbl, headers (even shorties) and a mild cam and have a pretty good runner. Add to that with head work or aftermarket heads, performance manifold, and you are in fine shape power wise.
The FE exhaust manifolds are the biggest cork in the system, then the lower compression used in some pickup engines.
There is nothing that hasn't been done to the FE engine.
What kind of condition is your engine?
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 175
From: Central Texas
The oiling issue they may have referred to is, as our moderator stated, is the same for the 390, and is likely the excess oiling to the rocker arms. The fix, if needed, is also the same. If the heads and bottom end of 352 is good to go, a 4bbl intake, properly tuned carb, electronic ignition, and headers is all you'll she'll need. You could do a cam, but sadly with the crapshoot cams and lifters are these days, I'd leave that too. The only question is most likely going to be the heads which need hardened valve seats to survive on todays gas. That will also be the same no matter which FE you choose, unless a much later model that already has them.
Should your 352 crank be toast, all you need is a good 390 crank and rods, and over bore the block to 4.050" and viola, a 390.
A 57 y/o engine is going to need work. There are all kinds of parts for these FE's but you need a thick wallet and a competent FE machinist who knows how to lighten that wallet properly. The former, no problem, the latter is much tougher.
Should your 352 crank be toast, all you need is a good 390 crank and rods, and over bore the block to 4.050" and viola, a 390.
A 57 y/o engine is going to need work. There are all kinds of parts for these FE's but you need a thick wallet and a competent FE machinist who knows how to lighten that wallet properly. The former, no problem, the latter is much tougher.
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 13
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The oiling issue they may have referred to is, as our moderator stated, is the same for the 390, and is likely the excess oiling to the rocker arms. The fix, if needed, is also the same. If the heads and bottom end of 352 is good to go, a 4bbl intake, properly tuned carb, electronic ignition, and headers is all you'll she'll need. You could do a cam, but sadly with the crapshoot cams and lifters are these days, I'd leave that too. The only question is most likely going to be the heads which need hardened valve seats to survive on todays gas. That will also be the same no matter which FE you choose, unless a much later model that already has them.
Should your 352 crank be toast, all you need is a good 390 crank and rods, and over bore the block to 4.050" and viola, a 390.
A 57 y/o engine is going to need work. There are all kinds of parts for these FE's but you need a thick wallet and a competent FE machinist who knows how to lighten that wallet properly. The former, no problem, the latter is much tougher.
Should your 352 crank be toast, all you need is a good 390 crank and rods, and over bore the block to 4.050" and viola, a 390.
A 57 y/o engine is going to need work. There are all kinds of parts for these FE's but you need a thick wallet and a competent FE machinist who knows how to lighten that wallet properly. The former, no problem, the latter is much tougher.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,261
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If everything in good rebuildable condition, I'd keep and rebuild the 352. New pistons to bump up compression and an rv or mild cam, combined with a 4 bbl intake and headers is plenty for a mild build for your daughter. Stock 4bbl intakes perform well and can be had for relatively low cost or pay the xtra and get an aluminum aftermarket. Obviously, your choice. Would also ditch the points ignition. Any other mods can be done later on if you or she chooses. Keep in mind, at least some (maybe all) after market heads are not meant for the 352 due to the larger valves and smaller cylinder bore.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 175
From: Central Texas
You passed the point of no reasonable return(your point may vary). You might as well add 390 crank, rods and a 4.05 bore; call it done.
I suggest you price out what your current thinking will cost with everything included and see where you stand then. Going 390 from your endpoint means it's completely new. None of this is going to be cheap.
I suggest you price out what your current thinking will cost with everything included and see where you stand then. Going 390 from your endpoint means it's completely new. None of this is going to be cheap.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,674
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Just an idea in case you end up shopping for pistons....remove just enough metal to clean the bores. Then get custom sized pistons. Besides saving bore metal for future builds, you'll also be able to dial in your compression ratio and get modern rings for better sealing and less friction. They cost noticeably more though I believe it's worth it.
The shops you've visited don't sound very knowledgeable on FE's. They're mistaking on oiling of 390's vs 352's and don't seem to realize you'll get the same hp per cube if you build them the same way. So it's up to you to decide if roughly 38 more hp is worth building a 390. The 352, properly built, will be pretty darn zippy.
The shops you've visited don't sound very knowledgeable on FE's. They're mistaking on oiling of 390's vs 352's and don't seem to realize you'll get the same hp per cube if you build them the same way. So it's up to you to decide if roughly 38 more hp is worth building a 390. The 352, properly built, will be pretty darn zippy.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,549
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From: Harned, Ky
I’ve owned and put several miles on both plus a swap build using a 428
Any of them makes a nice driver but the longer the stroke the more torque even a stock build makes to move heavier loads easier (aka pickups versus a lighter car)
Nobody makes replacement 390 cranks and the used supply is drying up
Personally I’d bore the block .050 over to stock 390/410 bore, add a 428 stroke crank from Scat or other supplier and build a 410 engine, keep compression down to regular gas levels and have a nice driver with plenty of torque to handle a pickups weight, plus it will tow a load better and still get about the same fuel mileage as the other engines
Any of them makes a nice driver but the longer the stroke the more torque even a stock build makes to move heavier loads easier (aka pickups versus a lighter car)
Nobody makes replacement 390 cranks and the used supply is drying up
Personally I’d bore the block .050 over to stock 390/410 bore, add a 428 stroke crank from Scat or other supplier and build a 410 engine, keep compression down to regular gas levels and have a nice driver with plenty of torque to handle a pickups weight, plus it will tow a load better and still get about the same fuel mileage as the other engines
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
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If going for a stroker kit, might as well get a 4.25 stroke. Same price as the 3.98 and no clearance concerns. A stock bore 352 with a 4.25 stroke makes it a 427 (sort of tongue in cheek).
There also is a 4.37 stroker kit but then you have to watch clearance and I think the wrist pins are inside the rings.
There also is a 4.37 stroker kit but then you have to watch clearance and I think the wrist pins are inside the rings.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
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I don't think anyone is trying to steer the OP...just throwing out options.
If it were my money being spent...this is strictly personal preference for a very nice package without obscene power.
- check heads, block, rotating assembly for any damage
- torque plate hone just enough to clean the bores
- line hone
- custom pistons for 9.0:1 static compression
- refresh the heads as needed
- find an experienced FE builder to spec a roller cam for torque peak around 2700 rpms
- reuse 352 crank
- Edelbrock Performer 390 intake
- 4 barrel carb of choice
- shorty headers
- Pertronix or other dizzy of choice.
If spending someone else's money, I'd look into EFI or heck, maybe even port injection but either is big money just to make driving a little easier than using a carb. Neither will make a big jump in mpg or hp for this situation.
If it were my money being spent...this is strictly personal preference for a very nice package without obscene power.
- check heads, block, rotating assembly for any damage
- torque plate hone just enough to clean the bores
- line hone
- custom pistons for 9.0:1 static compression
- refresh the heads as needed
- find an experienced FE builder to spec a roller cam for torque peak around 2700 rpms
- reuse 352 crank
- Edelbrock Performer 390 intake
- 4 barrel carb of choice
- shorty headers
- Pertronix or other dizzy of choice.
If spending someone else's money, I'd look into EFI or heck, maybe even port injection but either is big money just to make driving a little easier than using a carb. Neither will make a big jump in mpg or hp for this situation.
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